In reply to guffers_hump:
Should be fine for frame and bearings, assuming its not a carbon frame - they say normal greases can damage the epoxy, I'm not convinced personally as epoxy is pretty resistant to chemicals, but I think why risk a 1000 quid frame for a 15 quid tub of grease.
However, on your fork they'd be a bit thick... better than nothing, but it will make your fork less supple. The slickoleum/sram stuff is a very thin grease but still tacky. A small tub of sram is pretty cheap. Just rebuilt my fork and used lashings of the stuff In a pinch you'd be better off using multigrade engine oil... its basically what is inside the fork casting anyway, minus all the auto specific additives.
The thing with aero/auto greases in general, is that they tend to be lithium complex with high pressure additives, which is great for high temperature use (or a general wide operating range), but easily washed out by water. Most auto/aero grease areas are well away from the elements so its not an issue for them. A good bike grease (e.g. Morgan Blue) will often be calcium complex, or at least a calcium/lithium complex, which has a much better water resistance (with the sacrifice of temperature range, but not an issue for bikes). Marine grease is similar stuff and will work very well, as well as being cheaper - however, worth checking the viscosity (you'll want EP 2) as often they're a bit thicker for the particular application... commonly EP 2/3 or above.
Edit:
Personally I use Morgan Blue calcium grease for inside ball bearings, and then the muc-off carbon-safe grease for general frame/moving part usage because its apparently bio... so should be better for the environment when it inevitably gets out in the rain.
Post edited at 18:37