Knoydart, a Long Circuit Walking

Often hailed as Scotland’s ‘last wilderness’, Knoydart is a unique mainland peninsula only accessible by sea or on foot (and it’s a long walk). Of course it is nowhere near being the last, or even the 'wildest' bit of the country, but one thing is for sure - Knoydart has some of the best hillwalking anywhere. Much like the hills themselves, routes here tend to be big, rugged and inaccessible. Few fit the mould better than this tough circuit around all of Knoydart's major peaks - the multi-topped 9km-long Corbett Beinn Bhuidhe; the craggy Munros Meall Buidhe and Luinne Bheinn, more rock than grass; and Ladhar Bheinn, westernmost mainland 3000-er and contender for the most perfect. Unless you're a runner this is a two day affair with a night out somewhere along the way.

Loch Hourn from Ladhar Bheinn  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Loch Hourn from Ladhar Bheinn
Fetching Map

Detailed description

1
NG7647200171 From the pier go right on the track through Inverie and the wooded shoreline beyond. Near Inverie House the track bends left (ignore turnoffs), climbing inland then curving back right above the woods to run across the hillside above the Inverie River. Just before a monument on a knoll turn off right to descend to a bridge over the river. Follow the Allt Dubh steeply uphill – sketchy path – to the tiny dam at Loch Bhraomisaig.

2
NM7868697801 Go east into Coire nan Gobhar, tracing the burn uphill and then continuing straight on between rock outcrops to a little saddle just right of a mini peak. Turn right here to climb onto Sgurr nam Feadan, then go on up the steep craggy ridge to the broad summit above (spot height 787m). Now follow the high ground east, with many ups and downs over rocky knobbles. Beyond a bealach it’s a steady plod over a minor top to the summit of Beinn Bhuidhe.

3
NM8217496698 Descend east on a frequently-disappearing path. Just beyond point 802m bear slightly right to bypass a crag band, then carry on down rough ground to the Mam Uchd. The next summit, Meall Bhasiter, is a hard slog, with much weaving among rocks and pools. A cairn marks the high point, one lump among many.

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NM8461797186 Yet more lumpy ground, with minimal paths, takes you down to the low pass of the Mam Meadail (possible foul weather escape route).

5
NM8531997832 Cross the major trail in the pass and continue up a grassy shoulder leading to the base of Meall Buidhe’s daunting southern flank. Look for a shallow grassy gully directly above, cutting straight up between two rambly crags. Briefly climb this – quite steep and loose – until a nasty step forces you to move rightwards out of the gully. An open grass slope now leads up, trending slightly right, between the scattered outcrops (vague path). Once on Meall Buidhe’s knobbly southeast ridge it’s a quick ascent onto the mountain’s airy east top. The Munro-listed summit is just to the west.

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NM8489098965 Now on well-trodden and easily followed Munro paths, descend the steep, scrambly northeast ridge. Undulating rocky ground then leads past a cleft among giant blocks, and over a couple more little humps before the longer climb onto a 839m summit. The name of this varies, but it’s a great viewpoint. Continue over more hummocks into a col under Luinne Bheinn. A direct ascent looks steep and craggy so instead err slightly right to gain the southeast ridge, which leads easily to the east top. The middle peak is the highest.

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NG8697300733 Go down the northwest ridge – steep and quite eroded. At gentler ground on the grassy shoulder below, bear left to find a path that makes a descending traverse below Bachd Mhic an Tosaich to reach the Mam Barrisdale, the major pass through the heart of Knoydart (another early escape option).

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NG8561801782 Cross the trail on the pass and pick your own line north-northwest-ish up a pathless grassy slope of humps and hollows. Aim first for the minor peak of Stob na Muircraidh, and from here bear west onto a better-defined ridge which abuts the craggy flank of Stob a’ Chearcaill. The right-hand skyline of this sharp prow is a grade 1 (or perhaps 2) scramble, by turns loose, vegetated and slimy - but worth it if you can manage that sort of thing. However to avoid this go up to the foot of the crags, then join an obvious well-worn route which first scrambles straight up on scrappy rock, then leads out left on a long easy rising traverse to the col just left of Stob a’ Chearcaill. Continue up the crest to the unnamed top at 849m.

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NG8402002696 You're now on the rim of Coire Dhorrcail, one of the great highland corries. Ladhar Bheinn's rambling buttresses look immense (mental note: return visit in winter required). Follow the obvious path north-northwest down the ridge to the Bealach Coire Dhorrcail. The ridge now gives a surprisingly long ascent up a series of rocky steps, with occasional easy scrambling. Beyond a level section there’s a final steep pull up a narrower crest to the airy east top of Ladhar Bheinn. Stunning view along Loch Hourn. The summit ridge has three distinct tops; the middle peak is highest.

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NG8239403986 Pass the shattered trig point on the slightly lower west top, then descend the broad, grassy west ridge. Beyond a steepening in the ridge the ground levels onto the shoulder of An Diollaid. Here look for a grassy depression, and a small cairn that marks where the path kinks hard left. Soon join a burn, which is followed on a long steady descent into Gleann na Guiserein.

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NG7958103172 At a path junction go right along the river bank to pass a pine plantation. Go through a deer fence, then immediately turn left over a bridge across the river to join a vehicle track. This now gives a long plod back to Inverie.

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Further Routes

by Dan Bailey UKH



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