From the car park cross a footbridge over the River Runie and go left on the path signed for Dun Canna (a prehistoric fort). The path - boggy in places - follows the base of the hillside beside the pancake-flat pastures of the River Runie floodplain to reach a junction and signpost for Achiltibuie. Here's where the Postie's Path starts getting interesting.
Turn right onto the signed path (as for Achiltibuie). This makes a long rising traverse across the steep craggy slopes overlooking Dun Canna and Loch Kanaird. It's rocky underfoot in places and soggy in others, and occasionally quite airy. Wherever the trail becomes indistinct look ahead for a marker post. Pass over a distinct level-topped headland with great views over the water to An Teallach, then descend into a burn cutting, following it briefly downstream beneath sandstone crags. Descend across knobbly ground to cross a larger burn.
An Teallach and Beinn Ghobhlach from the Postie's Path© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Jul 2012
It's variations on a theme for the next few kms, the path weaving through sandstone outcrops, crossing several burn cuttings, visiting the odd bog and making some exciting traverses across steep sea cliffs. There's never a dull moment, and as you progress Ben Mor Coigach begins to make its presence felt. Eventually reach the large bay of Geodha Mor, where the craggy southern flank of Garbh Choireachan drops in a one-er from 700 metres to sea level. There can't be many sea 'cliffs' like it in the British Isles, and you've got to end up on top of it. Traverse across the back wall of the bay to reach the south side of the Garbh Allt gorge. Here the path turns hard right (not, as shown on some OS maps, straight on), climbing steeply alongside an old fence beside the lip of the gorge to reach a safer crossing point quite far upstream; posts show the way.
Cross the Garbh Allt, and at the high point of the Postie's Path on its north side leave the trail and ad-lib steeply uphill, working your way between little rocky outcrops to reach easier-angled shelving slopes. Deer paths and the odd cairn now lead you on a long rough rising traverse around the hillside below the upper crags of Garbh Choireachan, eventually landing you on a level boggy shoulder overlooking the houses of Culnacraig (start point for a much shorter round of the hill - but who'd want to do that?). Here cut right to climb a steep eroded path just left of a series of buttresses, leading onto Garbh Choireachan's airy summit ridge. All 'difficulties' (such as they are) can be avoided on obvious paths, but it's better to stick with the crest, where there's some enjoyable scrambling in a tremendous position above the sea.
From the high point of the ridge continue east along the arete, descending, via a few more bits and bobs of pleasant but avoidable scrambling, to a saddle where the Garbh Choireachan ridge joins the rest of the massif. An easy stroll gains the broad summit of Ben Mor Coigach itself, which stands a little apart from the line of the hill's main east-west ridge.
Regain the main ridge and follow it over a couple of small knobbly tops to a level plateau-like area beyond. Here cut northwest down steep grassy slopes to a low col separating Sgurr an Fhidhleir from the other major summits of the massif. Head to the cliff edge overlooking Lochan Tuath for the best view of the Nose, one of the largest crags in the northwest - seen here in profile. A short stiff climb now gains the airy summit of Sgurr an Fhidhleir with its vertiginous drops and stunning outlook to Stac Pollaidh, Suilven and the rest.
Sgurr an Fhidhleir, Beinn an Eoin, Stac Pollaidh and Suilven from Ben Mor Coigach© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Jul 2012
Retrace your steps back down to the col and up onto the main massif, then continue roughly east across the plateau. A quick dip and reascent bring you to the sharp rocky peak of Speicein Coinnich, yet another highlight of this remarkable mountain.
A clear path descends the narrow east ridge; it's airy but not at all difficult. From about the 450m contour the ridge opens out onto an easier angled shoulder, and the path tends to disappear. Whenever the urge takes you now, cut south down a steep rough hillside, taking care in poor visibility to avoid occasional tiers of crag. Boggy ground leads to the outflow of Loch Eadar dha Bheinn. Cross the burn and go south to pick up a Landrover track.
This takes a fairly winding course back to Blughasary, but at least it's easy-going and quick.