20m.

Rockfax Description
The deep and gloomy rift to a tight and scruffy exit through the manhole. A worthwhile and atmospheric route that is a lot easier than it looks from below. © Rockfax

FA. J.W.Puttrell 1901.

Ticklists

Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Through Routes! , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , The Pearson-Tanner Roaches Expedition , Puttrell's Progress , Roaches w sobote? :) , Peak diff and vdiff starred routes and top 50 , The Roaches - The First Ten , Squeeze Selects , 2024

Feedback

User Date Notes
Daniel Paxton 8 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Young pigeon sitting on the nest on the right half way up!
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βeta: Young pigeon sitting on the nest on the right half way up!
Missing Link 5 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Nesting pigeon halfway up with egg in nest.
βeta?
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βeta: Nesting pigeon halfway up with egg in nest.
stubtoe 2 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: As others have said, don't rely on the topo in the Rockfax book as the route goes right apparently. We never did the route proper, nor found the other exit, as we ended up finishing up on Raven Rock Gully Left-Hand using the obvious exit you can see from ground. Beware though the LH route is at VS 4b with a tough finish.
βeta?
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βeta: As others have said, don't rely on the topo in the Rockfax book as the route goes right apparently. We never did the route proper, nor found the other exit, as we ended up finishing up on Raven Rock Gully Left-Hand using the obvious exit you can see from ground. Beware though the LH route is at VS 4b with a tough finish.
DannyLamby 19 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lot nicer than it looks
βeta?
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βeta: Lot nicer than it looks
rjmac13 26 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax Topo has been updated in the app, now showing the correct line (October 2020)
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βeta: Rockfax Topo has been updated in the app, now showing the correct line (October 2020)
EdC 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax Topo line appears to be misleading / incorrect - it implies stepping across to centre at mid-height and an exit via the obvious hole on the left. BMC Roaches guide book shows the route sticking to the right hand wall (and other commenters indicate a smaller concealed exit on the right). A few more words in the Rockfax on describing the direction rather than the route's less tangible qualities might have been beneficial.
βeta?
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βeta: Rockfax Topo line appears to be misleading / incorrect - it implies stepping across to centre at mid-height and an exit via the obvious hole on the left. BMC Roaches guide book shows the route sticking to the right hand wall (and other commenters indicate a smaller concealed exit on the right). A few more words in the Rockfax on describing the direction rather than the route's less tangible qualities might have been beneficial.
RHW 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nice clean climb, fun exit, good to be skinny. Loved it. NB exit is to the R - can't see it from below until you're almost there
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βeta: Nice clean climb, fun exit, good to be skinny. Loved it. NB exit is to the R - can't see it from below until you're almost there
emmaharrington 26 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Started up the gully on the right-hand side then stepped across mid-way to the centre. The steep bulge felt harder than a Diff! The top even more so, as it seems to join the VS at the top, where I exited through the left hole. The right hole is way too small for anyone to fit through. Felt much harder than a Diff. This route needs to be re-assessed for the guidebook.
βeta?
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βeta: Started up the gully on the right-hand side then stepped across mid-way to the centre. The steep bulge felt harder than a Diff! The top even more so, as it seems to join the VS at the top, where I exited through the left hole. The right hole is way too small for anyone to fit through. Felt much harder than a Diff. This route needs to be re-assessed for the guidebook.
Dave Walker 28 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A useful exercise if you want to be a caver. Found the exit nigh on immpossible to get thru...& I`m a skinny guy!
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βeta: A useful exercise if you want to be a caver. Found the exit nigh on immpossible to get thru...& I`m a skinny guy!

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Voting
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High D
Mid D
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High M
Mid M
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Votes cast 72
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Inverted Staircase

Grade: D ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)

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