Advice on B3 boots

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 Fenda 03 Oct 2016
I'm taking a Scottish winter climbing course in January to learn snow-craft skills and climbing up to Grade II. In summer next year I plan to head to the alps and take a second course to climb more technical routes up to AD standard.

Until now I have only rock climbed and always wear my approach shoes. So I am somewhat of a newbie when it comes to boots for cold weather and ice climbing.

I tried on a bunch of boots in the store and ended up taking home the Nepal Cube GTX. I've been trying it on for the last few evenings around the house. They're not cheap and so I want to make sure I get the right fit.

They are B3 boots and very rigid compared to anything I have ever worn. Do these things break in much? My heel is not rubbing and my toes do not hit the end if I kick something. I'm wearing 2 pairs of socks and my feet are on fire just walking up and down the stairs! Will these be too warm for summer alps stuff?

I'm tempted to try some B2 boots but perhaps they won't give me enough room to do harder stuff in future?
 alasdair19 04 Oct 2016
In reply to Fenda:

did you try any other boots on when you bought the cubes? if not then take yourself to a decent shop and try a bunch on.

outside in Hathersage have probably 3 boots in that bracket they're all slightly different shapes and you need the one that fits your foot best.

for what you have planned next year a b2 boot Is probably better and obviously cheaper. I would use a b3 boot in the alps only for long sustained ice / mixed routes usually not climbed in the summer season . if Scotlands your thing then. a b3 boot is pretty essential to lead iii and above.
 David Staples 04 Oct 2016
In reply to Fenda:

If you were fitted correctly by someone in store then I would stick with the Nepal Cubes. I bet your house is a toasty 17 degrees or so so don't worry about them being hot. Its when you are in the Scottish highlands walking/climbing on snow and ice all day that you will be glad you have them. You will need B3's for Scottish winter days climbing grade III and above as alasdair has said.

In terms of breaking them in there is not much wiggle room. If you are happy with the fit wearing them round the house the best advice would be to do a couple of long (10+ mile) walks in them before using them for climbing. Juso so you get a feel for moving in them.

If you are climbing big easy-ish alpine routes you could use a B2 boot. My friend did a few 4000ers in his old B2's but did say his feet were quite cold and had to keep moving. So B3's might be the way to go, especially if you plan on doing a few harder routes at a later date.

I have a pair of Nepal Extremes and have also tried the Cubes and will say they are so much lighter yet maintain most of the warmth of the Extremes. All in all if you are planning on doing more Scottish winter and summer alpine then you have the right tool for the job.
 nniff 04 Oct 2016
In reply to Fenda:

Hot feet are bearable. Cold feet are miserable. I've always worn two very thick pairs of socks

They do break in, but not in the same way as shoes. What does happen is that the hinge at the ankle forms so that the leather bends more as you walk. The foot part also settles down, but it is the hinge that makes the difference. Once you're confident that they do fit properly, take them out a little and often to form the hinge. Better that than a few long walks, not least of all because it's kinder on your feet and you want the hinge to form based on a few natural variations in lacing tension. Dog walking is the ideal breaking in routine, if you've got one of those.
 Kirill 04 Oct 2016
In reply to Fenda:

I'd say Nepal Cubes are just about warm enough for what you want now. On Scottich grade II or alpine AD in summer you'll be moving most of the time so could probably get away with something even lighter but imagine a season or two down the line you decide to progress to something harder and let's say you go with someone more experienced than yourself who decides to lead some 6 pitch grade V on Bidean nam Bian, spends literally hours and hours on it. And you belay them loyally for hours and hours in spindrift and fading light with no feeling in your hands or feet but also without any doubt in your mind that Nepal Cubes are definitely not too warm.
OP Fenda 05 Oct 2016
In reply to Fenda:

Thanks for the replies, super helpful!

I have been walking around in the boots for the last couple of evenings and if I kick something hard a few times then my toe does reach the end of the boot. It reaches but doesn't actually hit the end. If I then wiggle my toes, the big toe slightly brushes the toe box leather. The rest of the shoe seems to fit well, although somewhat tight around the ankle hinge and the tongue doesn't give much, but I suspect that'll break in as mentioned by Kirill above.

Should I go up a half size? I'd need to have them ordered into the shop as was only able to try on 43 and 44 last time. 44 was too big (heel lift).
 nniff 06 Oct 2016
In reply to Fenda:

> Should I go up a half size? I'd need to have them ordered into the shop as was only able to try on 43 and 44 last time. 44 was too big (heel lift).

That's the million dollar question. If you don't feel as though you're stubbing your toe, it's about right. The danger of course is that if they're too big, then your foot will fit more loosely and you'll stub your toe and/or your heel will lift. If you can get a finger down the back of the boot (between your heel and the boot), the that's another fair guide that the size is right.
 CurlyStevo 06 Oct 2016
In reply to Fenda:

I found in the past its easy to think boots are long enough and still end up with bruised toe nails.

For summer alps you will likely find Scottish winter boots too warm IMO. My feet to tend to get cold easily in UK winter climbing mind.
OP Fenda 11 Oct 2016
In reply to nniff:

Thanks for the tips. My boots seemed to be exactly as you described and so I decided to stick with them. Took them up to the Lakes over the weekend and got in some long 9+ hour days hill walking. No blisters or toe problems but I did get some pain on the top of my right foot (where the foot bends) which lasted for about 24 hours after. Fine now.

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