UKH

I have a pair of trusty, clompy trainers but would like to upgrade at some point to sticky approach shoes but when I've seen them on offer I've been wary as I'm never sure whether 'sportiva, boreal, 5:10 or scarpa' are going to size their approach shoes whilst drinking from the same cup of loopiness as their rock shoes (she said grumpily due to non bendy big toe...).

Generally speaking how does this tend to work?

**I would go and look in some shops but when I do that I seem to spend more than I planned**

In reply to flopsicle:

I generally wear street shoe size, but bear in mind that they're generally (the brands I've tried: 5.10, Sportiva, Scarpa) sized quite narrow in the forefoot in the interests of climbing performance. This makes them less comfy than similar size trail running shoes, at least for me with fairly wide feet.

In reply to flopsicle:

You'd need to try them on really but as an indication: The length is usually similar to their walking boots per size though you might find some models are more snug across the instep than a waling boot/shoe so that there is some edging capability.

In reply to flopsicle:

Leave your wallet at home then go to some shops.

In reply to flopsicle:
IMO you do need to try on. Don't know any substitute if your feet generally have fit "problem".

Street size for me if the fit is right. Never got any Scarpa model to fit for me over the years - despite finding their walking boots excellent - but have found 5.10 the best fit, though others sometimes are ok. Just a personal fit thing; I find insole shape and how the lacing is to be very important for my feet.

Also, if your not intending to use for actual scrambling or climbing, don't go for the really narrow, tight fit ones. I regretted that - the few minutes of advantage can not off set the hours of why am I wearing these feeling! My 5.10s I mainly use are a bit generous which is great for most use, for casual use, approach to crags, easy scrambling, but can be tightened down by lacing when you want them to work hard on rock. Best of both albeit with a bit of comprise.

In reply to Climbing Pieman:


Good point. There are at least three main schools of "approach shoe" design. I can even cite La Sportiva as examples for all of them:

1. Climbing shoes that are bearable to walk in: Ganda
2. Stiff, clunky, supportive - basically a cut down & non waterproof walking boot: Boulder X (or 5.10 Camp 4)
§. Sticky soled, slightly more robust trainer: TX2