Ice Axe & Crampons - Need help plz

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JamesC1459 22 Aug 2016
Hi there,

Myself and a friend are heading of on an adventure in Mid September and plan to attempt the following mountains during our 6 month travels:
- Izta
- Pico De Orizaba
- Cotopaxi
- Chimbarazo
- Nevada Sajama
-Ojos Del Salado
-Aconcagua

I'm currently trying to decide what ice axe and crampons to buy that would suit me for the whole trip. None of these mountains are particularly technical so I would not need any ice climbing axes and crampons.

I currently have a pair of Scarpa Mantas (B2) & a pair of La Sportiva G2 SM (B3) so the crampons would need to fit both. My thoughts are Grivel G10 Newmatics, is this a good place to start? Regarding an ice axe I really don't have a clue but need something cheap and light that is for mainly walking up snow slopes. Perhaps the Grivel Brenva???

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

James
 jimmccall 23 Aug 2016
In reply to JamesC1459:
Hello,
Reading your post, I am sure many of us are jealous of you adventures - Good for you!
I have only climbed Cotapaxi on your list so please quantify my advice to that experience. This was 18 years ago and was graded PD by Alpine standard (probably because of the lack of support/rescue, and thus the 'seriousness' of the route rather than its difficulty).
Re boots and crampons... My suggestion would be that the boots need to be right first, and then the crampons fit. For such an adventure, both sets of boots you mention, are more than adequate in my appraisal. I climbed Cotapaxi in the 1990's and I found B1s (Scarpa SL's) with strap on crampons fine.
My advice would be that as long as the boots are comfortable (and let's sat your Mantas are) then an appropriate pair of C2 crampons are fine.. the shop will advise but I suspect G12s will be mentioned! (and why shouldn't they).
Your B3s would also be fine. I suspect you could fit a new pair of G14s to these, (and why shouldn't you)? However, B3s are generally less flexible and less easy to walk in (over that distance!). You certainly don't need that level of crampon at the grade I think you are alluding to (though please remember I have only climbed one of the mountains you have mentioned..). I am also assuming that you are not taking both sets of boots.
Re ice axe - I found a walking axe fine on Cotapaxi. I bought a Grivel Brevna only 8 years ago and love it. It replaced an old Camp Bendy (T) which was the one I used on Cotapaxi. I am sure you know to check B, T and all of that. Perhaps Google to remind yourself if you need to?
On a separate note, getting on the glacier was a bit tricky! The steep bit at the start was unexpected. I would have put it at Grade I/II Scottish winter (a bit like the first pitch of SC gully the same year if that helps!). For 20 m it was suddenly a little exposed and I felt like I could have done with a runner since I was 'leading'. So, in this modern age, perhaps I might suggest an ice screw on the harness since you are on a glacier.
On a further note... I read recently that there was some volcanic activity on Cotapaxi... so you may want to check that... Whimper of course, slept on the summit in the 1890's when the whole thing was fuming (literally).
Good Luck to both of you with your venture and I am sure we will all be reading a very exciting trip report in 12 months... or so...
Jim
Post edited at 00:38

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