Kyrgyzstan Advice

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 CliffPowys 22 Aug 2016
Two friends and I are thinking of going to Kyrgyzstan next July for about a month.

We are all experienced alpine and 6000m+ climbers but are getting on a bit!

Can anyone suggest an area of Kyrgyzstan that offers 4000m unclimbed peaks at around PD to AD standard from a reasonably easily accessible base camp?

Any general tips on climbing in Kyrgyzstan would also be welcome.
 pdone 22 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:

http://kac.centralasia.kg/mountaineering-regions-of-kyrgyzstan/

This is a link to the guidebook to Kyrgystan edited by Vladimir Komissarov so should provide plenty of information for your trip.
 Slarti B 22 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:

I came across this article on BMC web site, may help.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-supported-expedition-makes-seven-first-ascents...

Was in Kyrgystan for a few days last year as part of a Silk Route trip and it looked fantastic for climbing and walking. Sadly that was not on the itinerary for us
 alasdair19 23 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:

worth checking the bmc expedition archives as it's a regular destination. ISM go there regularly as well maybe worth dropping Adrian nelhams a mail, though I'm not sure anyone will be so generous as to give away a perfect 1st ascent bagging area!

there is an article on here about using Google maps to find interesting objectives too. Have fun!
 mikefergy 23 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:

It would be worth looking at the Terskey Ala-Too range, south of Lake Issyk Kul. Lots of peaks in the 4000m - 5000m range, some of which are still unclimbed, with access made relatively easy by some high road passes. E.g. the Barskoon Pass road goes to approx 4000m on the way to the Kumtor gold mine, and the Tosor Pass (much rougher but doable in a 4×4) goes almost as high on the way towards the Uchemchek.

I can recommend the Tamga guesthouse as a good place to stay before/after the expedition too.
OP CliffPowys 23 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:

Thank you all for your advice.
 67hours 23 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:

The BMC article was from our trip back in 2013. Advice on here about reading vladimir's guide, using Google earth and trawling the bmc/ac/mef/rgs expedition report archives is very sensible. You could also email ITMC directly. There are lots of ranges and lots of potential but it will take a bit of reading and internet research to get your head around where the areas of interest might be!

Feel free to message me directly if you've got any specific questions

George
 Mark123 24 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:

Here's a link to my video of our climbs in Ala Archa, Kyrgyzstan.

youtube.com/watch?v=jfc1z3EkgYs&

I don't think there are any unclimbed peaks in Ala Archa (?), but there is considerable potential for major new routes.

The first 3 minutes mainly shows the wildlife, so skip forward if that's not your thing! The next 5 minutes features ascents on Uchitel Peak 4550m (Russian Grade 1B); Korona Peak 4810m (3A). The final 2 minutes shows our new route on Semenova Tian-Shanski (4,895 m (Russian Grade 4A).

OP CliffPowys 24 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:

Thank you George and Mike.

Mike: we really want to do some new easy peaks, so Ala Archa is a bit out of our league!

George: I have sent you a message.
sphagnum 24 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:
Off topic but assuming your flying into Bish I can't recommend the Georgian restaurant called 'Mimino' enough.

You might already have been up the valley and again assuming you're flying into the capital, ala archa really is very accessible. It would almost be rude not to use it to start acclimatisation, although this could depend on how much time you have for the trip.
Post edited at 23:25
OP CliffPowys 25 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:

Thanks Spagnum. We will check 'Mimino' out.

It is unlikely that we will go to Ala Archa as we plan to go directly to our base camp and acclimatise there.
 marxk 26 Aug 2016
In reply to CliffPowys:

As an older climber I have now been climbing to Kyrgyzstan 5 times, its a great place! Unclimbed peaks abound, at least unrecorded climbs, the red army were here for many years in the border area and every so often you find a huge triangulation station on a remote top. You need to be aware that special permits are required for the border areas, not that hard to get but can be a bit time consuming. You need a local to help out, If you email me I'll send you a contact.

An area with almost unlimited potential is South of Naryn, there is a range next to the town which I've climbed in,. At Bashi has a large range behind the town and to the west is a great range of mountains along the border (permit needed). Google earth shots and the Russian military maps are all you need. There are plenty of links on here where to get the Russian maps. You can also access them on Alpine Quest using an android phone.

The local shepherds are often very helpful and for a fee will carry you bags into base camp by horse, great for old legs.

Have fun, I hope you like boiled mutton and fermented mares milk!

Mark

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