My 'friend' doesn't do crevasses-what alps routes to do?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Finlandia 29 Jun 2016
Advice please, we have a plan to go to the alps in September. We like mountains but my friend does not know crevasse rescue and is not comfortable crossing snowy glaciers. We're happy with big ascents, multipitch rock up to about E2-3, like to get to the top of something. Ideas?
 IPPurewater 29 Jun 2016
In reply to beginner1:

The Schweiz Plasir and Extrem guidebooks have a lot of ideas. Panico publish quite a few guides too - http://www.panico.de/buecher.html

That should give you enough choice for a few years.

 matt perks 29 Jun 2016
In reply to beginner1:

Chamonix: Aiguille Noire, Aiguille du Peigne or (longer) Plan NW Ridge integrale, E Face Direct Aiguille du Moine
The Matterhorn routes are more or less glacier free
anything in the Dolomites
lots of long rock routes in Switzerland, some of which top out

Good luck
 Simon4 29 Jun 2016
In reply to matt perks:
Auguille Noire? For someone who describes themselves as a beginner?

Sorry, no, no, no! The Noire is a very serious Alpine situation just because most of the difficulties (though not those of the descent) are not glacial is neither here nor there. Very bad suggestion indeed.
Post edited at 22:38
1
 ChrisBrooke 30 Jun 2016
In reply to Simon4:

His profile says over 20 years, up to E5, so not a beginner.
 Mowglee 30 Jun 2016
In reply to beginner1:

The Lagginhorn is an easy 4000m tick, if you want to get to the top of something tall. Not technical at all, but perhaps a good warm-up for something harder?
 lanky 30 Jun 2016
In reply to beginner1:

West grat on the salbit is probaly the best non glacial big route I've done. Shortly followed by the cassin on the badile. Start from the ledge and descend the north ridge means no glaciers.
OP Finlandia 30 Jun 2016
In reply to beginner1:

Hi, thanks for suggestions! Yes the Schweiz Plaisir book looks good, I thought I was going to have to brush up my German language, but I see this book is actually in English as well as German & French, and English descriptions of book at www.filidor.ch/default.aspx?Lang=E
Yes profile name was slightly tongue in cheek.. we might chicken out of the Noire this time though.
Mowglee, that looks a great option, cheers.
Thanks lanky that sounds a great route - I may need to retreat into my bunker to do some research, or perhaps more usefully practice moving fast
 ChrisBrooke 30 Jun 2016
In reply to beginner1:

The Plaisir Selection is a book of alpine rock dreams. It doesn't go *that* hard (that's the point of the 'Plaisir' bit) but has a lifetime's trips in there. So, for example, it's more Sudgrat than Westgrat on the Salbit, more N Ridge than Cassin on the Piz Badile.
 Simon4 30 Jun 2016
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Yes Chris, but he is presumably referring to Alpine skills, not pure technical rock.
 David Rose 30 Jun 2016
In reply to beginner1:

The Bregaglia is stuffed with great routes that meet those requirements.
 CurlyStevo 30 Jun 2016
In reply to David Rose:

As mentioned Dolomites and Bregaglia are excellent for this type of thing. Bregaglia tends more towards slaby granite style and Dolomites steep juggy limestone / dolomite. Dolomites has everything from pretty huge walls to spires and proper mountains.
 Misha 30 Jun 2016
In reply to beginner1:
The Noire is not a route to do for technical interest (it's no more than HVS) or amazing climbing (it's ok but nothing to write home about). It's a route to do for its big and serious nature or as the start of the Integrale. The descent is a pile of choss by the way, easily as serious as a wet glacier.
 David Rose 01 Jul 2016
In reply to beginner1:

The Noire descent is very long, complicated, exposed and indeed, much more serious than your average wet glacier.

The Dolomites and Bregaglia can easily be combined in a single trip. Both are fantastic.
 DaveHK 01 Jul 2016
In reply to David Rose:

> The Noire descent is very long, complicated, exposed and indeed, much more serious than your average wet glacier.

That descent took us forever. 7 or 8 hours from memory when the guidebook said 4!
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 01 Jul 2016
In reply to David Rose:

Seconding Dave's suggestion of a combined Dolomites / Bregaglia trip. Both superb venues.
 CurlyStevo 01 Jul 2016
In reply to James Rushforth:
I've also combined the two, although the drive between them can be quite time consuming during tourist season. Google maps say 4.5 hours but my memory is that it took more like 6-7 hours.... Anyway......
Post edited at 11:47
 douwe 01 Jul 2016
In reply to beginner1:

I really enjoyed the Salbit South Ridge. West Ridge must be good too, but significantly harder though.
OP Finlandia 03 Jul 2016
In reply to beginner1:
Hi, excellent suggestions all, will look into details

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...