Are climbers being rushed up Everest?

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 Chris_Mellor 02 Jun 2016
Re this story: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-36437937
- are climbers being rushed up Everest without enough acclimatisation? Could the sherpas decide a client is too groggy to go on and stop their summit bid?
Great -huge - creds to Leslie Binns but where were the expedition organisers/guides?
Bellie 02 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris_Mellor:

I think in a lot of cases, its due to the weather windows. Delays mean more teams at the final camp, whilst the right conditions come. Then there is a rush to summit in the right conditions. More folk going up at the same time = queues and delays. Many climbers are on the summit push much longer than they should be, hence the problems on decent with climbers running out of energy and oxygen.
 DancingOnRock 02 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris_Mellor:

There are certainly a lot of stories recently in the news. I'm wondering if something unusual is going on for the BBC to be highlighting them.

A number of deaths each season isn't unusual. Maybe it's just because the mountain has been quiet for so long but it does seem unusual.
 andrewmc 02 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris_Mellor:

'Mr Binns, who has climbed "all the major peaks in the UK", is now in Kathmandu and due to return to the UK to see his fiancee and daughter on 6 June.'
 Damo 02 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris_Mellor:

If you look at the stats as they are atm, they are only slightly down overall compared to recent years. Yet, focussing on the south side, there were fewer westerners (US, UK, AUS etc) and a couple of the major western guiding companies did not operate, as reported in various places. Those reports also noted the growth of Nepali companies in operating on the mountain, with warnings about dangers etc. So if fewer westerners and guides turned up, who made up the numbers?

There has been a rapid growth in Indian and Chinese clients and these have tended to go with the cheaper Nepali budget operators. These operators skimp on HA worker payments, employ less-experienced HA workers, have less bottled O2 for their clients, have no actual guide with the clients, have no rescue ability, have no team doctor, poor strategies and don't vet their clients much for prior experience or ability. So quite inexperienced clients are getting very high, due to the overall infrastructure, and some almost inevitably get into trouble. When they do, there is no margin, and if they're not saved by other teams, they die.

Outside the ms media reports and initial blogs there have been some heartening tales of rescues but also scary tales of delays, incompetence and far too many cases of frostbite, not to mention over 50 helo 'rescues' from C2 or thereabouts. Some of the photos from one summit day with dozens and dozens of people on a few sections of fixed line are terrifying.
1
 FactorXXX 03 Jun 2016
In reply to Damo:

Stark and frightening!
Can this sort of situation be maintained? Surely, such companies can't be allowed to not only put their own clients at risk, but of all the people involved in trying to rescue them as well?
I knew Everest was bad, but has it really been reduced to this?
 Damo 03 Jun 2016
In reply to FactorXXX:

> ... has it really been reduced to this?

No. If history is any guide, I'm sure it can be reduced quite a bit lower.
 Billhook 03 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris_Mellor:

For many getting clients up to the top is a money making business.

For many clients having forked out the huge amount of dosh to get to the top and having more money than competence, cannot afford physically or financially to give up their ambition to help some other poor sod lying dying in the snow.
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 Tom Briggs 03 Jun 2016
In reply to Damo:
+ 1

Plus some people had unplanned 24hr delays on the S Col because of weather. This may have had implications in terms of their 02 resources.
Post edited at 11:24

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