UKH

I've seen a lot of insulated jackets marketed as 'belay jackets' that do not come with a 2-way zip.
Is there any reason for this, or just to appeal to non-climbers?

i.e. Arc'teryx Nuclei range, Montane Prism, Rab Xenon X

In reply to Alpenglow:

Because a double zip is useful but not essential? Because those items you mention are sold on their light weight and a double zip adds a few grams?

I rarely bother to unzip the bottom of my "proper" jacket and don't really miss the absence thereof on my Xenon X.

In reply to BnB:

I find a double zip very useful when belaying and missed it on my last jacket which didn't have the second zip puller. You must be talking a single figure number of grammes for all the additional weight involved.


My Montane Black Ice, whilst not strictly a belay jacket, is very good for belaying in cold conditions add it has a two-way zip but also a 'belay button' snapper to keep the bottom hem closed, but with the facility to still raise the bottom of the zip. Best of both worlds IMO.

In reply to Alpenglow:

The pieces you mention are pretty stripped down minimal mountaineering gear, so I suspect appealing to non-climbers isn't the issue.

I think it's more that there seems to be a trend away from the one jacket to rule them all, blast shelter style of belay jacket, as epitomised by the the Patagonia DAS, to the "belay jacket" as a mid weight outer layer on the assumption that you already have one or more lighter insulated layers underneath. The sort of arrangement Dane talks about a lot on coldthistle.

The whole arrangement is probably lighter and more versatile, but in the interest of weight saving you lose useful things like the big, mitten friendly double zip, the huge cavernous hood, the big mesh pockets to warm gloves and water bottles.

In reply to BnB:

How is the Xenon X incidentally? I might 'have to' get one after an episode with my Rab Generator (the subject of a separate thread on here). It appears to be the same thing with a hood, zipped pockets and full length zip.

In reply to Alpenglow:

I can't speak for the manufacturers, but I strongly prefer not to have a double-zip. They are fiddly to thread, misalign and have to be redone, and the bottom part of the zipper seems to me to deteriorate faster than single-slider zippers. Thin jackets like Rab Zenon can just be tucked in front when belaying, so there is no need for a double zip. Thick jackets can be rolled up in front to expose the belay loop, at the expense of some coverage of course.

In reply to Fraser:

It makes a great 3 season and sub full-on Scottish Winter belay jacket. I took it on about half my Scottish days this recent winter. I never fely cold but these were not epic weather days. Amazing warmth for the weight. Feel the love:

http://m.outdoorgearlab.com/Insulated-Jacket-Reviews

In reply to BnB:
Go on, indulge us fellow gear freaks... what's your clothing system with this set-up...?

In reply to JayPee630:


Oh alright then:

Microgrid fleece baselayer (eg Me Eclipse/R1 etc) with cut sleeves (my wife put a hem on them)*

Patagonia Nano Air mid layer

Patagonia Kniferidge softshell

Xenon X belay jacket (*or NF Makalu 130 fill belay monster teamed with Brynje mesh baselayer)

Not once did I don a hardshell this winter as the Powershield Pro is almost waterproof yet very breathable for its weatherproofing.