UKH

Warning: shameless plug for my blog!!!

Hi everybody,

I have written an articles about classic ice axes, comparing a legendary vintage ice axe (Bhend ice axe) and and a revolutionary new ice tool (Kronos ice tools).

There are also articles about other ice axes, French and American ice axe techniques, the utility of classic ice axes, and so on....

Since nobody would ever stumble across my blog on their own, I thought I would provide a helpful link

https://outdoorflow.wordpress.com/

Enjoy!

Bruno

In reply to brunoschull:

Really enjoyed reading that, thanks for posting!

In reply to jon:

Does the reduced length make it less good for cutting steps? Or is that not its intended purpose for you?

How useful is it as a general mountaineering axe?

George

In reply to brunoschull:

Am I the only one who now wishes to buy a Bhend ice axe?

There's no point in me getting the Khronos stuff as I don't climb hard enough.

In reply to brunoschull:

Interesting. My step cutting experiments have been similarly wobbly and hard-work! I have watched someone who can do it well though and it is impressively fast, efficient and elegant - almost like a dance. I have also had a line of steps to walk up once and even in crampons they make huge difference to comfort and speed.

In reply to George Fisher:

Its main (only) use is adorning my office wall, though that wasn't its intended use. I have used a friend's 55cm Bhend for step cutting and it was OK for me - I'm 1m73 tall. I have a Charlet Moser 60cm step cutter that I've used for years and that's about perfect. Any longer for step cutting and they become unwieldly. In olden times when huge long alpenstock type axes were the fashion they were used with both hands for cutting, standing quite upright, but now it's usual to cut one handed with the other hand against the ice in a supporting role. I see 60cm as a perfect length for me as an alpine axe, step cutter or classic.

In reply to davidbeynon:

You're not the only one but I have a similar camp axe that hangs in the workshop and I suspect will never see any action.

The Bhend axe is lovely but I'll never get one.

In reply to George Fisher:
I doubt I will ever find a walking axe significantly better than my old DMM Raptor, but I love high quality woodwork.

A shameless repost, but here's an example of what you can do even with a fairly cheap wooden axe and a bit of free time:

http://www.avon-mc.org.uk/2014/11/the-golden-ice-axe-project/

In reply to davidbeynon:

That looks great. I have the same axe but a 80cm version. If I ever need it to be gold I'll know how to do it!

In reply to George Fisher:
My advice would be not to bother to varnish it before plating. It was suggested as a possible way to protect the wood from the plating solution, but what actually happened is that the varnish just dissolved/melted and collected at the surface of the tank. That's why there is a ring of slightly lighter wood in the middle of the axe.

Best option is to take the metalwork off first of course, but it was epoxied and I couldn't do it without breaking the shaft.

In reply to brunoschull:

Nice work. Thanks for going to the effort of writing that up and sharing it.

I was surprised at your comments re: the Cobra v the Kronos. I climb with Cobras and recently tested them side-by-side with Nomics and new Grivel Tech Machines, on WI4/4+ routes at Ouray. I found the Tech Machines particularly 'tinny' and vibrating compared to the Cobras, and found the latter absorbed vibration much better than either of the others. But then, in general, I've always found ice tool preferences very personal and variable between individuals. The Kronos look great, though.

In reply to brunoschull:

Bhend axes look lovely but I've found the balance awkward to use (at least, this was true of the 1930s model I briefly used). I ended up selling mine – I found the Aschenbrenner better balanced for me.

A great piece on classic ice axes, anyway! I am a firm believer that they can still have relevance if you want them to.

In reply to brunoschull:

Very nice piece, thanks for sharing.

Regarding the classic step-cutting, the first ascent of the couloir de Gaube on the Vignemale saw the guide Célestin Passet cut 1300 steps (allegedly) in 1889. Ice axes were relatively rare in the Pyrenees at the time and this made them famous. After that, they were dubbed locally "fleur de Gaube", and the axe used on this route is now exposed in a museum in Lourdes.

I am sure the Alps have seen many of these crazy step-cutting episodes, but this example is quite impressive.

Thanks for all the positive feedback folks!

I wasn't sure anybody would read a 5,500 word piece about wooden ice axes....

To Jon...the Bhend I bought was made in the 1950's. It's about 80 cm long...pretty awkward to swing! I agree that about 60 cm is great for an all-around axe, but I think it's highly dependent on your intended use and ability level.

To Damo...yes, it's true, my experience with the Cobras is limited. I think my first impression I might have been reacting to the light weight more than any true lack of damping. And as you say it's so personal. The Cobras did not work well for me, but obviously they are great tools that many people use and love. It's actually an interesting question, the whole balance of weight, stiffness, elasticity, damping qualities...it applies to ice axes, and also things like skis and bikes. Getting the "feel" right is not easy.

To Davidbeynon...they should make a real classic gold axe for the Piolet d'Or...not a "re-mastered" modern Grivel

To Only on a hill...Aeshenbrenners are great!

To Drolex...thanks for sharing that! Great information. I'm really curious. I lived Spain for five years, and climbed often in the Pyrenees (Aneto, Maldeta, and so on).

If anybody wants to share notes, or send a PM, you can find my email on the home page of the website.

All the best,

Bruno