Dry Alps

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 HosteDenis 23 May 2016
So as most of you probably now: the Alps are still very wintery but also very dry, because of the high winter temps and high temps now, there's not a lot of ice (even though there's still loads of snow).

So, I'm looking for lines that are fun to do, even when there's little ice. Lines that don't get significantly harder even if they're pretty dry.

I was thinking, maybe some stuff on the Triangle du Tacul? Like Le temps est assassin or maybe the German gully? Does anyone have any experience with these? How's the gear, if there's little ice?

I'm here hoping some ice-lines that are usually pretty fat and in condition in summer, will still be this warm summer (in June). Maybe Charlet-Bettembourg on the Chardonnet?

Does anyone know how current conditions are and how they're evolving?
 alpinestar_no1 24 May 2016
In reply to HosteDenis:

I was on Le temps est assassin in October last year, very dry conditions. Had to back off the 2nd pitch right at the top of the corner. There wasent any ice at all. So I would presume its even worse now.
OP HosteDenis 24 May 2016
In reply to alpinestar_no1:

Ok, thanks!

That's the sort of info I'm after. Hopefully I can find some lines that are climbable even with little to no ice. Le temps est assassin just got scraped off the 'maybe' list and added to the 'no' list.

Any others out there?
 brunoschull 24 May 2016
In reply to HosteDenis:

Hey. I was just out in Cham about two weeks ago. As you said, plenty of snow but very little ice. We did the Burnier-Vogler (one of the routes that you access by rapping down from the passarelle off the Midi, or from the Cosmiques arete). It had not too much but sufficient ice and was great fun. We also did the Chere, and there was plenty of ice in the main gully, as usual, but not too much down low or up high. The lack of ice up high was most worrying--where the main gully ends and the slope kicks back to easy terrain to the top of the triangle, the snow/ice is really thin, with lots of loose rock, so get an eary start, so you are up and off before all that starts to melt and rain down.
OP HosteDenis 24 May 2016
In reply to brunoschull:
Thanks! I'll keep on eye on the Burnier Vogler! Although I'm afraid that won't be climbable anymore by the end of June...

I won't do Chere, already done it and disliked it because of the crowds. But as a usually fat line in summer, I guess it's always climbable in June/July although sometimes quite a bit drier. I'm actually hoping Charlet-Bettembourg on the Chardonnet will be in similar (not great but climbable) conditions as the Chere goulotte.
Post edited at 18:06
 alexm198 24 May 2016
In reply to HosteDenis:

Yeah I'd steer clear of Le Temps Est Assassin, I did it last November and it was mega dry - solid M6+/Scottish tech 7 for the crux pitch. German gully is easier, though it has a very delicate traverse across a slab when dry.

I did Frendo-Ravanel a few weeks ago and that was in awful condition - deep unconsolidated powder low down and then devoid of useful ice on the mixed. Bold, too, as the cracks were too iced up.

Pellissier Gully could be good, probably a neve romp lower down with a few good moves of mixed at the top. I think Petit Viking has been done quite a lot recently? Hopefully someone with more up to date info will be along soon.
OP HosteDenis 24 May 2016
In reply to alexm198:

You mean Pelissier up the Pointes Lachenal? I had thought about it but heard very dry upper pitch(es). Still passes, but a little harder than 5+ I heard. Have you climbed it?

Good info about Petit Viking, hadn't thought of it yet. I'll check its condition
 alexm198 25 May 2016
In reply to HosteDenis:

Yep, Pointe Lachenal. I climbed it in the autumn, can't imagine it's got any dryer since then?! Don't think the mixed pitch at the top is overly dependent on ice. Was about 2/3 moves of M5 when I did it.
OP HosteDenis 25 May 2016
In reply to alexm198:
Sounds good, I might get on it! How were the first two icey pitches? Dry I suppose, and I'll have to mixte-climb my way up them? Still take a decent amount of screws?
Post edited at 23:11
 Rob Royle 27 May 2016
In reply to HosteDenis:

Pelissier is a good option, was in Cham for the winter season and it was one of the few routes that were in reasonable state as a result of the conditions. It's a great route, would say M5 is about right, did the finish going right at the top, which was dry but doable!
OP HosteDenis 27 May 2016
In reply to Rob Royle:

Sounds great!

How where the first few pitches? The ones that are usually climbed when iced up? I'm talking about the first two... Where they dry as well? Or where they still iced up? If relatively dry, how would you say a few more months of warmer temps (from winter till mid June) would affect them? Still climbable, or stay the hell away?

Denis
 Rob Royle 27 May 2016
In reply to HosteDenis:

First few pitches were ok, reasonable ice! Not sure how they would be in June but it's one of the few routes that seems to stay doable when everything else is 'no go'...... I would ask in the guides office, they should be able to give you an update on the conditions when you are there.

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