UKH

First off I understand that ultimately the answer to this question is up to me. Given the proximity of the damage to one end of the rope (1.5m) I have already chosen to cut the rope. However, I would still like to hear from others as to their own experiences/ thoughts/ conclusions... ...it is always useful to get the broad perspective.

The rope is a Mammut Genesis 8.5mm 50m dry. It is essentially brand new, with the damage occurring during a fall on its third ever route. As the pictures show, while the core is not visible four of the strands that make-up the sheath have been completely cut with heavy abrasion to an additional few.

The rope did its job so I can't really complain, these things happen. That said my previous genesis (retired) certainly appears more robust - the sheath is only a little furry after 7 years of grit!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tombellfield/albums/72157665233441284

In reply to tom:

If in any doubt whatsoever, I'd cut it - especially given it's location.

Bottom line is it probably would be absolutely fine but it'd always be in the back of your mind. Better to be safe than sorry! Pretty annoying though...

Did it snatch over an edge or something?

ML

In reply to tom:

if the core isn't damaged, it's unlikely to reduce it's strength by a significant amount but if you are worried about it and it being close to the end, just cut it off.

In reply to Malt_Loaf:

Yep, it dragged across the bottom lip of Wings of Unreason (E4 6a) after falling from the rockover... weirdly the edge isn't that sharp - enough under the force of a fall it would seem...

Definitely going to cut, realistically the rope will be used 99% for single pitch UK trad so no need to have the full 50 - remembering the middle mark ain't the middle will be the most annoying thing i suspect!

In reply to tom:

We all know that climbing is 95% head game so if it worries you it'll stop you climbing to your potential, and maybe even make you more tentative leading to mistakes. So just cut it to eliminate all that bother.

That said, if the core isn't affected or visible, its probably fine.

In reply to tom:

That looks to be at the worse end of the little, largely-cosmetic nicks ropes accumulate. I suspect I'd grudgingly live with it were it mid-rope but being where it is at the end of a full rope I'd almost certainly cut it out.
jk

In reply to tom:

I do not believe that anyone other than yourself can know the answer tothat. I remember some years ago having some doubts about my rope but being too much of a Yorkshireman to bin it. Sometime later I was part way up a route and developed a bad case of hesitation on a long run out. The very first thought that popped into my mind was "I hope this rope is OK". From that second on I was doomed to failure.

Al

In reply to tom:
As you probably know you can get markers for putting a new middle on the rope. I think Beal do one; however, I've no experience of using one.

Someone else might come along and advise better...

ML

In reply to tom:


Why would you use a thin half rope on short workaday routes on an abrasive rock?

I appreciate there are lots of possible reasons, and no offence intended, but for regular climbing on small outcrops light isn't always right.

In reply to petellis:
Would you really call the 8.5mm Genesis a 'thin' half rope? (does anybody buy half ropes thicker than that these days?)

In reply to petellis:

no offence taken! I have always used halves for UK trad, and always used Genesis due to their high sheath percentage. My last pair were superb in terms of durability (old type) and therefore I had no real reason to change type when renewing them.

In hindsight I should have seen the potential for the rope to snag and perhaps held off for a day when I had a thicker/ older rope... but these days I am based in Cambridge and crag trips are too few and far apart!

All good experience, rather a damage rope then a damaged body!

In reply to tom:

Thanks for all the comments and advice - its useful to hear different opinions.

The rope will get cut, and I will learn to check potential fall dangers more extensively in future/ take an older thicker rope if I know its likely to get abused!

Onwards and upwards (hopefully).

In reply to tom:

After 7 years use, I'd not retire it ... I'd donate it to the local museum! The 'damage' doesn't look too bad to me, but at only 1.5m from the end, I'd chop it as you have done.

In reply to tom:
In your place I think I'd be cutting a bit off the end too.