UKH

Can anybody tell me how consistent La Sportiva shoe sizing is, from model to model?

My first set of climbing shoes were LS Tarantulas (the green ones with the velcro) in a size 46. They were extremely comfortable, but arguably a fraction too large.

After UKC users helped me decide to leave the capital and relocate to Sheffield (http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?n=637804) to do more trad stuff, I got a set of Geniuses in 45.5. The first couple of times I wore them indoors, I could only climb for about 10 minutes, and after 5 sessions with them I'm still yet to climb for more than half an hour without giving up.

Is this really about the half a European size? If I get the Geniuses shipped in a 46 (the largest size they make), will that totally solve my problem, or is it the case that La Sportiva shoe sizes aren't that consistent from model to model? Should I give up on Geniuses altogether?

In reply to 19G:

Can't comment on the Geniuses as I'm not a fan of no-edge, but I drop 2 sizes from 8.5 normal shoes down to 6.5 Miuras and Solutions and 1.5 sizes for more comfortable flatter shoes (Mythos).

In reply to 19G:

For me:

Pythons - EUR42
Solutions - EUR42
Katana - EUR41.5

I'm a EUR43 in anazazi

In reply to 19G:

I haven't tried either shoe, so have no idea how consistent the sizing is between them.

But the Tarantulas are very much a beginner/all day comfort shoe that you'd wear with your toes flat, and the Geniuses are fairly advanced shoes, downturned and pointy.

So ... they're very different shoes anyway, and you'd probably want to fit a shoe like the Genius tighter than the Tarantula to get the most benefits out of it.

For a tight bouldering shoe, for example, I'd consider it fairly normal to initially only be able to wear it for 10 minutes at a time before I have to take it off for a a few minutes, and then if after 5 sessions I could wear it for 30 minutes between breaks, I'd consider that pretty successful breaking in.

If you're in outright pain, or you can't keep climbing after the 30 minutes, even after a break, then obviously something's wrong.


Not necessarily and not necessarily. It might just not suit your footshape (in which case, one size might be too painful but the next size up might feel too big), or it might not suit your climbing needs at the moment or be appropriate for the kind of climbing you want to do.

I wouldn't say the Genius is an ideal trad shoe, for example, unless your trad is at a pretty high level.

(I have some very downturned shoes that I sometimes use for indoor bouldering, but they're definitely not the shoes I grab for trad.)

In reply to 19G:

Are you taking them off between climbs? If not, start doing so!

My Miuras are 43.5 and my Solutions are 43, so definitely a snugger fit, even when both were new. The Miuras were very tight initially but have eased back a bit with use and are now quite comfortable.

In reply to 19G:

As others have said, the Genius is definitely not a trad shoe - not stiff enough really. Great for steep limestone though.

Genius and Futura are half a size smaller than the rest of the range - Miura, Katana etc.

In reply to 19G:

As mentioned, curious shoe choice. What grade range are you climbing in them and is it mostly grit? The genius use a very aggressive last, I'd be surprised if anyone could wear them for very long!

In reply to 19G: Their sizing is hopeless - shame because they make brilliant rock boots.

My normal shoe size is 43 but my pythons (and I've had lots of them) work best at 40.5. Haven't been able to get into speedsters of the same size, probably have to go up at least 0.5 or even 1 for boots made on this last - which I think includes the futura and genius. Unlike the python (which I stretch to get a perfect fit when a 40.5 pair seems smaller than usual), the speedsters are too well-made to stretch enough to wear.

You just have to try unfamiliar models on before you buy them.

Hope this helps.

In reply to Marcus:

Thanks Marcus, and thank you to all of you for the suggestions.