UKH

Can anyone recommend a lightweight, preferably packable into own pocket, belay/insulated jacket with a helmet hood?

So far I've tried a few but the hoods are tiny, such as Nano-puff, ultraight down hoody, ghost whisperer etc.

Currently got a Nano-air but it's not so windproof or packable so after a nice light summer/alpine alternative that I can potentially layer in winter

In reply to John Newbiggin:
Down or synthetic?

ME Compressor is good if you want a synthetic

In reply to Alpenglow:

Either really, pref down but some of the synthetics seem close now - main thing is a helmet hood + packability, I was keen on the Patagonia Nano-puff or ultralight down hoody, but they can't fit a helmet under the hood.

In reply to Alpenglow:



^This. I tried one as a lighter alternative to my Rab Alpine Generator and the hood fit nicely over a helmet.

In reply to angry pirate:

Cool, any down ones to try too?

In reply to John Newbiggin:

ME Compressor, yep ticks many boxes, been using mine past 2 winters.

Stuart

In reply to John Newbiggin:

For lightweight synthetic, I've tried almost all of the options out there and I settled on the rab xenon x. Perfect blend of warmth, weight, packability, and features. Goes down to a good size inside its own pocket and I've found myself taking it places where I wouldn't have bothered before, even in summer. It won't do for full on winter, but if there is a lightweight layer that does then I'd love to know what it is.

In reply to John Newbiggin:

Another vote for the ME compressor, have been using it for about two years now.

In reply to John Newbiggin:
Cumulus jackets fit even the big and bulky Petzl Sirocco.

I have the old synthetic pullover with a hood (new model is missing the hood), now they also offer a full zip one.

And also down versions available.

Only con is, that you'll need a separate bag to pack it (3l is optimal for M-sized pullover with hood).

http://sleepingbags-cumulus.eu/uk/categories/jackets

In reply to John Newbiggin:

Montane prism. Light weight, packs into pocket which also has a tab to clip it to harness and hood fits over most helmets. Can layer it with vest if you want a bit more warmth.

In reply to nickcj:

+1 for the prism

The hood is much better than the ME compressor - at least for those of use who wear glasses.

In reply to John Newbiggin:

Cheers, any lightweight down suggestions? I tried the MH Ghost Whisperer which was a good as fitted in my usual size, but with a helmet not quite right, debating trying a size up if I can find one next time.

In reply to John Newbiggin:


http://sleepingbags-cumulus.eu/uk/categories/jackets

In reply to John Newbiggin:

Another vote for the ME Compressor here.

In reply to John Newbiggin:
And the critics choice coincides with only one of the recommendations above:

http://m.outdoorgearlab.com/Insulated-Jacket-Reviews

The Xenon X's hood does (just) go over a helmet but it is much warmer (enough for calmer Scottish winter conditions) than your otherwise brilliant Nano Air. They do very different jobs exceedingly well. As a layering item the Nano Air is preferable on account of its breathability. I think I'd overheat in minutes if I tried moving fast in a Xenon. But as a lightweight belay jacket the Xenon X is king of the heap. Seriously warm for the weight. The review says it all.

In reply to John Newbiggin:

Thanks for posting this has answered my question ,cheers for the help trolls

In reply to John Newbiggin:

Rab continuum hoody is nice

In reply to John Newbiggin:

For synthetic: Arcteryx Nuclei LT

For Down: Berghaus Ilam

Both fit your criteria

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:



Do you mean the Nuclei FL? There isn't an FT on the Arc' website....

In reply to galpinos:

Yep, sorry, i meant the FL

It's not the warmest belay jacket, but for the weight, it's bloody good! Ok, so it's pretty featureless for a belay jacket with no internal mesh pockets for gloves and only 2 hand warmer pockets but I've never found this an issue.

The Berghaus Ilam down jacket is also brilliant for its weight. I've used that one in North Wales when the wind chill was down to -21! It is stitch through baffle comstruction so again, not the warmest, but it keeps the wind off, the cold out, plus it has a huge internal pocket, big enough for mitts or a water bottle and the hood stretches over a helmet with ease, but it does inflate a bit if facing into the wind.

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:


Although you were wearing a nice coat which makes claimed "windchill" factors as meaningless as they always are!

In reply to John Newbiggin:

+1 for the Arcteryx Nuclei LT.

It has it's limitations in very cold conditions but that's to be expected as it's ridiculously light. I had a Montane Prism which I liked but the Nuclei is much warmer.

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Hi Gary,

I would agree, Prism isn't cut out for belay duty, a fantastic mid layer though.

Stuart

In reply to John Newbiggin:

Don't know if it qualifies as lightweight (<600g) these days but Rab Generator Alpine has a cracking hood for big lids and packs into its chest pocket with a clip point

In reply to iksander:

How about the ME kinesis as a *very* lightweight option? http://www.climbingtips.com/gear/mountain-equipment-kinesis-jacket-review/

In reply to John Newbiggin:

rab xenon x for a very light option. reccomended!