UKH

Looking for a lightweight belay jacket recommendation for Scottish Winter.

I have a Jottnar Fjorm but to be honest I have found this to be overkill a lot of the time and only really comes into its own in a proper hoolie.

My Fjorm weighs in at about 650g so am after something less than 400g or so. Jottnar's Fenrir isn't really a belay jacket, having a small hood and single zip.

Any recommendations?

Cheers,
Andrew.

In reply to planetmarshall:

I've got one of these:

http://www.facewest.co.uk/Arcteryx-Atom-LT-Hoody.html

I've been extremely pleased. warm enough I think

In reply to planetmarshall:

ME Compressor - small & light enough to hang from harness, hood covers helmet, two way zip.

Rab Xenon also looks similar, not sure about hood though?

Stuart

In reply to planetmarshall:

Jon Griffith of Alpine Exposure used to rave about the Patagonia Nano Puff as a light weight belay jacket. Haven't personally tried it though but have used lighter synthetic jackets as a 'belay' jacket on those not so 'Scottish' days elsewhere in the UK in winter.

It doesn't have a 2 way zip though, if that's an issue or not.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Cheers all. Might just try climbing with an extra layer for a bit and carry a lightweight down jacket as an emergency, see how that works. Might save some faff at the belays.

In reply to planetmarshall:

I don't think many synth jackets will be that much lighter than the Fjorm, but in the past I've taken along my Rab photon hoodie http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2685 when I don't need so much warmth but it might get a bit soggy. Not sure what the closest thing is to that now though.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Rab Xenon X, currently only £85. See the OutdoorGearLab review and feel the love. In their view it is the outstanding choice and that was at RRP. It gives me a choice between 133 Primalofts at 750g (NF Makalu) and 60 Primalofts at under 400g depending on the forecast and the route (ie likely duration of belays).

In reply to Stuart the postie:


I have a xenon from a couple of years ago. The helmet is a tight fit, the zip is one way and there are no inner mesh pockets. It's also very delicate too, brushing the rock can cut it. It's great for summer but not winter in my opinion.

Unless you carry a bothy bag or survival blanket, a warm belay jacket is a sensible backup for issues on the hill.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Cumulus Climalite...

http://sleepingbags-cumulus.eu/uk/categories/jackets/climalite-full-zip?gid...

I have the (now on sale) pullover, and the hood is big enough to fit over my helmet (where as on many jackets it hasn't).

Worked like a charm in Scotland a few years back. And also here in Scandinavia.

In reply to planetmarshall:

PHD Kappa Vest?

In reply to iksander:

I've got an Arcteryx Atom SV (discontinued our replaced with another model I think) that I use for a spring/autumn/not bad winter belay jacket. 100gsm Coreloft insulation.

Then have a heavy winter only one too.

In reply to jonnie3430:

Realistically, the OP isn't going to find a lightweight jacket with all the full-on body armour features of something like a DAS.

The Rab Xenon already mentioned or the Arcteryx Nuclei would be a good bet. (I picked up a Nuclei half price in the sales a couple of weeks ago) The side panels on the Atom LT aren't windproof enough for a winter shit-hits-the-fan scenario, and the Nucle is both warmer (80g vs 60g) and lighter.

The Cumulus recommendation looks interesting too. I have one of their sleeping bags and the construction quality is excellent for the price.

In reply to planetmarshall:

PHD Sigma Jacket would probably suit the bill, also have a look at the Haglofs Mimic. Both in at about 300-400g, used the sigma vest and found it really toasty warm. Friend has the mimic and thinks it's amazingly warm for the weight!

Not sure about double zips on the jackets, and mimic doesn't have a hood though.

Cheers,

In reply to planetmarshall:
Id agree with the Kappa vest suggestion. Warm, big hood and no faff getting your arms through the sleeves Just very expensive for a hooded vest.
If conditions are good enough not to need a biggish belay jacket do you really need one at all ? People managed for many years until Mark Twight and the marketing gurus told us we needed to get 'dressed to belay.'
Although I admit that I do always carry a Nano Puff hoodie in winter in case of emergency poo hits fan/accident moments

In reply to leon 1:


Yeah, that's what I'm thinking to be honest. I think I can probably get by without. For the most part last week I was wearing an ME Eclipse T under a Gamma MX hoody. If I can add another layer (I have an Atom LT jacket) without overheating on the climbing that should probably do the job.

In reply to planetmarshall:
Arc teryx solo Andy. Bomber jacket, fully dwr. Can't beat it

In reply to TobyA:


Arcteryx Nuclei AR comes in at 450g (claimed), which is a possibility.

In reply to planetmarshall:

and the Cumulus ones at 350 or so... real world weights.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Montane Prism?

In reply to TobyA:

I've been using one this season in scotland and I have to say I've been mighty impressed! Even in the mankiest of Ming it still works well.