UKH

Hiya,

I bought a pairs of La Sportiva Nepal Extremes earlier on today and am just wondering if I made the right decision or not. The fit is perfect, and the price wasn't too bad (only three weeks rent!!!). I'm just worried about the insulation of the boots. I'm looking to perhaps go to Ecuador or Peru this summer and attempt some peaks up to around 6600m and was wondering if these would be up to the job.

Any advice would be really appreciated.

Thanks,

Alex

In reply to climb the peak:

I have 2 pairs of B3's - Nepal Extremes and some plastic Kohflachs. I tend to use the Nepals for UK and Alps stuff, plus mixed ground, but if its super cold (Kilimanjaro/belaying in the gorge at Ouray at -20oc) its plastics every time. Far better insulated and therefore warmer. How cold is it due to be in Peru?

In reply to climb the peak:
They are great boots but over 6000m you really need a double boot.

The leather on the Nepals will be prone to freezing as it holds some water and this will give the potential for frostnip or at least very cold feet at that altitude. As Babica says you want a plastic or hydrostatic material that doesn't get wet so it can't freeze. There are a lot of high altitude boots for sale cheap on here.

In reply to climb the peak:

I've done up to 5800m in Peru wearing Nepals. These were all single day routes from the valley.

My feet were pretty cold but I don't think they were dangerously cold. I'd be concerned about wearing these for a 6600m climb for two reasons:

1. It is 1000m higher and so much colder
2. You will probably be camping high up overnight (or else you are ascending a ridiculous amount in a day - kudos). The leather in the Nepals gets wet and it will freeze overnight making day two more uncomfortable and more dangerous

In reply to climb the peak:

Thanks a lot for the advice, from what I've found it gets to about -20 on the summit of chimborazo at 6600m

In reply to climb the peak:
The issue is not the absolute height, as you are only at that point for a short time. It's more about the height of your highest camp, is it in snow, and do you generally get cold feet on other climbs.

If you camp high in the snow, around 6000m, it will be cold at night and the sweat in your leather boots will freeze, making them hard to get on and possibly leading to frostbite in the early hours, as at altitude you won't move fast enough to keep warm.

Of course people use Nepal Extremes on some high peaks, and other light boots, but it all depends, and it's a bit of a gamble. Double boots would be a safer bet, but of course are overkill low down, and more to carry. So it also depends on if you are doing other lower peaks, in which case single boots will suffice and just risk it for the highest, and if you are using horses and maybe even porters low down, as opposed to walking in in your boots - for that singles beat doubles.

Personally I'd use doubles for Huascaran and probably risk singles on all the other Blanca peaks. A few years ago I climbed Ausangate (6300+m) in the Cordillera Vilcanota (further south) and at 3am it was pretty cold, maybe -15C or colder, and I was glad I was wearing doubles, as my feet were not warm - and I don't usually get cold feet.

In reply to climb the peak: It depends very much on your objectives. Quick up and downs from an Ecuadorean hut you might get away with(Not been there so cant comment really)
6600m on Sajama in Bolivia you might get away with (Damo ?) and most of the big Argentine dry peaks would be ok but with Huascaran or most of the Blanca 6000m Peaks I doubt it very much - I wouldnt risk it myself, Ive seen some badly frostbitten fingers out there
Personally I used/needed double boots on Huascaran and even on the lower 6000m peaks I was very glad of them as its friggin baltic early mornings in the dark.
Ive used Nepal Evos at 6000 in Nepal on quick, in a day ascents but theres always the feeling that you got away with it rather than knowing it was safe. Buying cheap Vegas or Omegas second hand just for the trip and keeping the Nepals for UK winter and Alps is another option
One thing to take into consideration is, if youre camping , its near the Equator and the nights are very long (11-12 hrs of darkness) Best not to start them with cold feet.
Which peaks were you thinking about trying ?

In reply to Damo:

Thanks a lot for the advice, I think I'll stick with the la sportivas nepals for now and upgrade when I need to. I've seen some pretty baddass looking gaiters that completely cover mountaineering boots. Would these be enough to squeeze in a bit of warmth over 6000 metres?

Also, how about putting the boots in a waterproof plastic bag inside your sleeping bag before going to sleep?

Cheers,

Alex

In reply to climb the peak:




Yeti-style gaiters provide only a little extra warmth, as they have no insulation under the foot. It's standing on cold ground, snow, ice, in steel crampons that gets your feet cold. Those gaiters do provide a small amount of extra insulation on top and they do stop snow accumulating in the laces of your Nepals. I find my Nepals get wet quite easily, even with regular Nikwaxing, and on an expedition you may not have the chance to re-treat them, so they'll dry out a bit and be more susceptible to getting wet in the snow.

Putting your leather boots in a bag in your sleeping bag works alright if you have room in there. Personally I'd leave the plastic bag open so the boots can dry out a bit.

I climbed Sajama many years ago (1999) and wore Asolo 101 plastics, L.A, cos that's what you did back then I had perfect weather, not too windy, so it wasn't too cold.

In reply to climb the peak:

One of the benefits of double boots is you can put the inners in the bottom of the bag at night and they are set by morning. I bet you could get a pair of cheap Vegas on here- why don't you post a wanted ad?