Edelrid 8.3 'Perfect Alpine' rope

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Go Outdoors deal on these seems a good deal. Currently £65 per rope for 60m, £55 for 50m if I recall correctly.

They are positioned as an alpine/ winter rope and being skinny will I guess be quite bouncy.

Anyone got any experience? I will use for alpine and Scottish, but most of my climbing is single pitch in the Peak.
pjm 25 Jan 2016
 CurlyStevo 25 Jan 2016
In reply to fairweatherclimber:
Its only got a dry treated sheath (not core as far as I can tell - this rope matches nothing on elderids website with this being somewhat underspec other similar ropes on there) so not perfect for winter / alpine use. Also it weighs the same as mammut genesis dry per metre but can take less UIAA falls, has a great impact force and only has 30% sheath proportion (so likely not all that hard wearing for an elderid which are usually better than beal IMO), personally I'd get the genesis over it but it costs twice as much, the genesis will probably last you 5+ years though.

If you strictly want ropes for alpine / winter use I'd personally get something lighter than either, maybe the mammut phoenix or similar 8mm rope.
Post edited at 16:50
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thanks pjm and CurlyStevo.

I'm erring towards the Genesis now, £89 each for 60m at GO is still reasonable. Takes more falls and thicker sheath by the look of it.

Retiring my old 9mm pair after the ab off Old Man of Stoer shredded the sheath of one rope; sobering...
 CurlyStevo 25 Jan 2016
In reply to fairweatherclimber:

The genesis on offer are only a dry sheath also. For winter I'd want a fully dry treated rope myself.
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Mmm, I did wonder about that.

I think I'll still go for the offer Genesis as robustness is most important to me.
 CurlyStevo 25 Jan 2016
In reply to fairweatherclimber:
http://www.urbanrock.com/phoenix-superdry-60m-pair-deal

these are awesome alpine / winter ropes, super hard wearing for the diameter and fully dry treated, also good handling.
Post edited at 18:02
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Now you're really tempting me..

Mammut ropes are hard to beat, love my 9.2 Revelation dry.

This Phoenix deal now sold out though.

This is the best deal I can find on quick search, still more than double the cost of those Edelrid's I started out with...

http://www.v12outdoor.com/product.php/7813/mammut-phoenix-dry-8mm-x-60m-cli...

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Actually Needlesports doing the Phoenix superdry at £127.50 each, slightly cheaper.

But the Meteor looks like a better deal if I can live with 50m only? Sheath and core both dry treated and high sheath % for longevity. £75 each.

http://www.needlesports.com/32673/products/mammut-meteor-super-dry-8-3mm-50...
 nutme 26 Jan 2016
I was asking for advice recently as well.

Was tempted to get Perfect Alpine ropes from GoOutdoors, but have no stores near by and those chaps don't deliver.
Ordered Petzl Salsa ropes from here http://bit.ly/1RKzkjq
Ropes are not yet delivered, so can't really sat about the quality and next time will be in Alps only in a month.

 BStar 26 Jan 2016
In reply to fairweatherclimber:
FWIW

I recently bought the perfect alpine rope from GO. I usually climb on a pair of Mammut Genesis 50m ropes, but I was off on an ice climbing trip where 60m was required for most routes. Price wise, you can't really get anything cheaper.

On my ice climbing trip, the temperature when climbing was always below zero, the rope handled well, only once did it start to freeze and was harder to pass through the belay plate, never really an issue though. After a week of using it daily, I can say it's a nice rope and does what it says on the tin, I can't comment about how long it will last though.

I've just finished my 2nd year with the Genesis ropes, climbing around 200 ish routes a year. They have stiffened up a lot, and I think I will only get one more year from them before I think about getting new ones. Although they are stiffening up, they are in great shape for the abuse they have been through and would certainly recommend them.
Post edited at 10:54
 CurlyStevo 26 Jan 2016
In reply to BStar:

Genesis are incredibly hard wearing, I think this partially is why they are stiff (lots of tightly woven sheath).

The phoenix are a much more supple rope this does mean they are more prone to tangling though IMO.
In reply to nutme:

Interesting.

Broadly comparable to the 'perfect alpine' I think (sheath %) although perhaps better dry treatment and a tiny bit lighter.
 CurlyStevo 26 Jan 2016
In reply to fairweatherclimber:
you can still get a pair deal here:
http://www.v12outdoor.com/product.php/7018/mammut-phoenix-protect-8mm-x-60m...
http://www.madaboutmountains.co.uk/p/5314/Mammut-Phoenix-Superdry-Climbing-... (not used them before)

I don't think one weeks use on euro ice is really a test for a mountain rope. If the air was cold and dry perhaps you wouldn't expect them to absorb much water. Personally I'd only get a fully dry treated rope for alpine / winter use and weight would be a major consideration.
Post edited at 11:06
In reply to CurlyStevo:

As you both say, Genesis look like the dogs b*ll*cks.

And yes, on reflection I also need 60m for continental use.

Unless I see the Genesis on a good deal soon, I might go for the Meteor Superdry 60m's. £200 a pair from Urban Rock ATM. Apparently they are basically Genesis without the teflon coating.

Thanks for the info on recent use of the GO Edelrid ropes. No doubt good ropes and great deal, only q is longevity.
 Mr. Lee 26 Jan 2016
In reply to fairweatherclimber:

> Thanks pjm and CurlyStevo.

> I'm erring towards the Genesis now, £89 each for 60m at GO is still reasonable. Takes more falls and thicker sheath by the look of it.

> Retiring my old 9mm pair after the ab off Old Man of Stoer shredded the sheath of one rope; sobering...

Have you considered getting two sets of half ropes? One set for single pitch and sea cliffs. Any old cheap shit that's not dry treated and can be put through the wash whenever. Second pair dedicated for winter and alpine. Seems a bit of the shame to get a nice pair of dry treated ropes for winter and then have them dropping in the sea by accident during sea cliff abseils. It means a bigger outlay in the short term but from my own experience it's mean less investment in the long-term.
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thanks for digging those out.

Getting there...
In reply to Mr. Lee:

Good point.

I have an old pair of 9mm non-treated ropes which I can use as you describe, if I inspect them regularly. Recent damage as my previous post means they've been cut down a little from 55mm.

The new ones will be used as you say, and in time be used for everything.
 CurlyStevo 26 Jan 2016
In reply to fairweatherclimber:
http://www.urbanrock.com/genesis-dry-60m-pair-deal

I think the pheonix are better for apline / winter especially more remote less roadside stuff. But for grade pushing normal trad especially where you may be inclined to place gear on only 1 of the two ropes and / or there are sharp edges around I find 8mm a bit thin. I bought my genesis when I was living down south (after having owned pheonix in scotland). I was doing a lot less mountain stuff and Swanage has a lot of sharp rock about! If I'm still up here when the genesis need replacing I'll get the pheonix again I think, on the two ropes its a 600g weight saving and they are less bulky and cheaper. They wear really well mine lasted 5 years!
Post edited at 11:28
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Yep, agree.

I want high confidence around sharp edges and I'm happy to carry more.

The Pheonix look great for their weight, but other threads here also suggest can be tangly and of course need careful belayer..

BTW also saw your post 2 years ago re the value of Genesis coating that Meteor doesn't have. But Meteor looks like good compromise for me and allows me to cap my spending.
In reply to CurlyStevo:

For anyone interested - today I picked up two eBay purchases, both brand new: genesis 60m x2; Phoenix dry 50m X1.

Total £150!

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