This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Winter can be challenging on the hills - but sometimes just driving there is the hardest part of the day. When snow arrives we are often urged to stay off the roads, yet this is precisely when winter walkers and climbers most want to get out. These tips should help you go prepared.Read more
5
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
Good article - I was undone by this in the past, and "parked" my old Megane in the side of someone else's car in Bethesda. It did not go down well.
I've since got a land rover.
Good article - I was undone by this in the past, and "parked" my old Megane in the side of someone else's car in Bethesda. It did not go down well.
I've since got a land rover.
2
In reply to ianstevens:
With equivalent tyres on, a 4x4 does not brake any better than a normal 2wd car. All cars have 4x4 braking, something I think a lot of drivers of larger cars seem to forget - they may have better traction uphill, but downhill they're the same as everyone else in terms of (normal) braking.
With equivalent tyres on, a 4x4 does not brake any better than a normal 2wd car. All cars have 4x4 braking, something I think a lot of drivers of larger cars seem to forget - they may have better traction uphill, but downhill they're the same as everyone else in terms of (normal) braking.
16
In reply to NottsRich:
But you can use the engine to break to much greater effect. And being a proper 4 x 4, I would hardly describe the tyres as similar.
But you can use the engine to break to much greater effect. And being a proper 4 x 4, I would hardly describe the tyres as similar.
4
2
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
Driving to winter climb in heavy snow at night with the headlights on is pretty awesome. Always reminds me of something like star wars jumping to light speed.
Alright, Chewie, punch it!
Driving to winter climb in heavy snow at night with the headlights on is pretty awesome. Always reminds me of something like star wars jumping to light speed.
Alright, Chewie, punch it!
33
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
I bought and put my winter tyres on my car in the late summer (the summer tyres were nearly dead). I therefore apologise for jinxing this winter...
I bought and put my winter tyres on my car in the late summer (the summer tyres were nearly dead). I therefore apologise for jinxing this winter...
8
In reply to ianstevens:
Hence "in terms of (normal) braking." I'm glad, it sounds like you know how to use your car - there are many who appear not to. (I wasn't suggesting you don't to be honest, just that some folks don't).
You can actually achieve a similar effect in a 2wd car balancing trailing throttle and handbrake, to get a continuously variable brake bias.
Hence "in terms of (normal) braking." I'm glad, it sounds like you know how to use your car - there are many who appear not to. (I wasn't suggesting you don't to be honest, just that some folks don't).
You can actually achieve a similar effect in a 2wd car balancing trailing throttle and handbrake, to get a continuously variable brake bias.
Post edited at 13:13
2
In reply to NottsRich:
Clearly I should read posts properly first... And yes, the above incident "inspired" me to improve my snow driving skills. It's not really/at all why I got a 4 x 4, but it was nice to think I might have an easier time of it.
> Hence "in terms of (normal) braking." I'm glad, it sounds like you know how to use your car - there are many who appear not to. (I wasn't suggesting you don't to be honest, just that some folks don't).
> You can actually achieve a similar effect in a 2wd car balancing trailing throttle and handbrake, to get a continuously variable brake bias.
Clearly I should read posts properly first... And yes, the above incident "inspired" me to improve my snow driving skills. It's not really/at all why I got a 4 x 4, but it was nice to think I might have an easier time of it.
1
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
If you're taking lock de-icer spray, "in the car" is probably the wrong place to keep it...
If you're taking lock de-icer spray, "in the car" is probably the wrong place to keep it...
28
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
We have winter tyres for Mrs RR's Ibiza diesel and they are quite astonishingly good, especially on a front-wheel drive car with a heavy diesel engine over the driving wheels. Nothing seems to stop it. I wish I could justify the expense for my own Passat.
We have winter tyres for Mrs RR's Ibiza diesel and they are quite astonishingly good, especially on a front-wheel drive car with a heavy diesel engine over the driving wheels. Nothing seems to stop it. I wish I could justify the expense for my own Passat.
1
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
Yeah winter tyres all the way. I have had winter tyres for the past few years and it gives an awful lot more confidence when driving in winter conditions. I can£t rate them highly enough! (once had summer tyres on the back and winter on the front. in snowy conditions it was a real eye opener)
And it£s not just snow and ice... even on a dry road summer tyres start to loose grip and wear faster when the road temperature drops below 7 degrees. Which is where winter tyres start to really grip
It occurs to me that I have a sad fascination with motoring…
Yeah winter tyres all the way. I have had winter tyres for the past few years and it gives an awful lot more confidence when driving in winter conditions. I can£t rate them highly enough! (once had summer tyres on the back and winter on the front. in snowy conditions it was a real eye opener)
And it£s not just snow and ice... even on a dry road summer tyres start to loose grip and wear faster when the road temperature drops below 7 degrees. Which is where winter tyres start to really grip
It occurs to me that I have a sad fascination with motoring…
Post edited at 14:24
5
In reply to andrewmcleod:
I made that mistake last winter putting them on beginning of November, this time they went on last weekend.
I made that mistake last winter putting them on beginning of November, this time they went on last weekend.
In reply to andrewmcleod:
No need to: its all my fault. Three years ago I bought studded MTB tyres for my bike for the work commute, at the tail end of a 'good' winter, when the snow was heavy even in Glasgow centre. Not had to use them since purchase...
No need to: its all my fault. Three years ago I bought studded MTB tyres for my bike for the work commute, at the tail end of a 'good' winter, when the snow was heavy even in Glasgow centre. Not had to use them since purchase...
In reply to ianstevens:
A couple of years ago I parked my Peugeot 206 in a tree by the side of the Nevis Range approach road. I now drive a Skoda Yeti, 4x4 with Winter Tyres. Snow chains in the boot.
Would echo the article's comment about de-misting the windscreen in good time. You see many drivers around with "periscope vision" ( In true UKC fashion, it's only other drivers who do bad things. I on the other hand am perfect ).
> Good article - I was undone by this in the past, and "parked" my old Megane in the side of someone else's car in Bethesda. It did not go down well.
A couple of years ago I parked my Peugeot 206 in a tree by the side of the Nevis Range approach road. I now drive a Skoda Yeti, 4x4 with Winter Tyres. Snow chains in the boot.
Would echo the article's comment about de-misting the windscreen in good time. You see many drivers around with "periscope vision" ( In true UKC fashion, it's only other drivers who do bad things. I on the other hand am perfect ).
4
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
I find that a broom and a brush are handy things for clearing snow off the car.
New car is automatic and RWD. It does have winter tyres, but we shall see (the UKC collective does seem to be responsible for the wet weather juju). It refuses to move off in 2nd, but it may have some electronic trickery up its sleeve if things get slippy.
It also has an electric handbrake - on, or off - no more creeping down a hill in a FWD car, with just a touch of brake at the back.
I find that a broom and a brush are handy things for clearing snow off the car.
New car is automatic and RWD. It does have winter tyres, but we shall see (the UKC collective does seem to be responsible for the wet weather juju). It refuses to move off in 2nd, but it may have some electronic trickery up its sleeve if things get slippy.
It also has an electric handbrake - on, or off - no more creeping down a hill in a FWD car, with just a touch of brake at the back.
17
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
Winter tyres also have a much more effective tread to enhance grip as well as the rubber. Many Summer tyres have what translates to a slick tread and it's no suprise when people with them get stuck in the snow.
Winter tyres also have a much more effective tread to enhance grip as well as the rubber. Many Summer tyres have what translates to a slick tread and it's no suprise when people with them get stuck in the snow.
1
3
In reply to Orgsm:
Going uphill, 4wd has 4 driving wheels to make it move. 2wd only has two, with obvious downsides on snow.
Going downhill, 4wd and 2wd both have braking on all 4 wheels. Assuming normal road tyres on a 4wd Octavia (for example) and a 2wd model of the same, uphill the 4wd would be better, but downhill they should both be the same.
Regarding 4 vs 2 ch. ABS, yes the 4 is better I imagine (not tried it personally), but it's not what I was talking about earlier.
Have I explained that any better?
Going uphill, 4wd has 4 driving wheels to make it move. 2wd only has two, with obvious downsides on snow.
Going downhill, 4wd and 2wd both have braking on all 4 wheels. Assuming normal road tyres on a 4wd Octavia (for example) and a 2wd model of the same, uphill the 4wd would be better, but downhill they should both be the same.
Regarding 4 vs 2 ch. ABS, yes the 4 is better I imagine (not tried it personally), but it's not what I was talking about earlier.
Have I explained that any better?
1
In reply to NottsRich:
Yes, my view is don't try and find the limits of your car whether in the snow or otherwise. Better to arrive later, than not at all.
Yes, my view is don't try and find the limits of your car whether in the snow or otherwise. Better to arrive later, than not at all.
Post edited at 16:43
1
In reply to Urgles:
Or perhaps a how to check your lights work article?
> Can we have a "How to drive in summer" article next pls?
Or perhaps a how to check your lights work article?
6
2
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
not a bad article.
Winter strength screen wash, read the label, dilute accordingly. Never presume.
Make sure your engine anti freeze is up to strength too.
Don't pack a snow shovel. Pack a solid builders shovel with a good steel blade, lightweight mountain shovels are for the hills not digging cars out, or breaking up ice on the road.
Think about your exit when you park. All front wheel drive cars will go better uphill in reverse (more weight on the wheels).
If parking for a while and it's flat leave the hand brake off and car in gear.
Better to squirt a little oil in all the locks at the start of winter, although remote locking negates many of the older lock freezing problems.
I carry a scraper, but also a small floor brush with soft bristles. Ten times quicker shifting thick snow off the windscreen and you can clean your feet / trousers free before getting in. Less snow melting inside, less condensation problems in the future.
When there is lots of snow, find a car park with lots of room and have a play, learn to feel the limitations and also how to recover a skid at the early stages. It's quite hard to sense what is happening on a modern car where everything is powered or electronic, you have very little time to react from that first inkling before it all goes wrong.
not a bad article.
Winter strength screen wash, read the label, dilute accordingly. Never presume.
Make sure your engine anti freeze is up to strength too.
Don't pack a snow shovel. Pack a solid builders shovel with a good steel blade, lightweight mountain shovels are for the hills not digging cars out, or breaking up ice on the road.
Think about your exit when you park. All front wheel drive cars will go better uphill in reverse (more weight on the wheels).
If parking for a while and it's flat leave the hand brake off and car in gear.
Better to squirt a little oil in all the locks at the start of winter, although remote locking negates many of the older lock freezing problems.
I carry a scraper, but also a small floor brush with soft bristles. Ten times quicker shifting thick snow off the windscreen and you can clean your feet / trousers free before getting in. Less snow melting inside, less condensation problems in the future.
When there is lots of snow, find a car park with lots of room and have a play, learn to feel the limitations and also how to recover a skid at the early stages. It's quite hard to sense what is happening on a modern car where everything is powered or electronic, you have very little time to react from that first inkling before it all goes wrong.
Post edited at 16:54
10
In reply to Orgsm:
it is kind of an open and flexible tread pattern, with extra little grips within what would be solid on summer tyres. As the tyres squashes on the ground, then expands after leaving the tarmac, the snow between the tread is ejected, so it's a clean tyre that rotates back round to the snow road. The soft compound on winter tyres remains flexible enough to do this, where as a summer tyre loses it's flex in sub zero weather.
> Winter tyres also have a much more effective tread to enhance grip as well as the rubber. Many Summer tyres have what translates to a slick tread and it's no suprise when people with them get stuck in the snow.
it is kind of an open and flexible tread pattern, with extra little grips within what would be solid on summer tyres. As the tyres squashes on the ground, then expands after leaving the tarmac, the snow between the tread is ejected, so it's a clean tyre that rotates back round to the snow road. The soft compound on winter tyres remains flexible enough to do this, where as a summer tyre loses it's flex in sub zero weather.
3
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
I also carry a flask of hot water and/or a jetboil so I can have hot chocolate or tea if traffic snarls up.
I also carry a flask of hot water and/or a jetboil so I can have hot chocolate or tea if traffic snarls up.
2
In reply to Orgsm:
Cheers, everyday is a school day! I spend half the year driving on them, never knew there was special name for them.
> Yes, they are called sipes and work brilliantly.
Cheers, everyday is a school day! I spend half the year driving on them, never knew there was special name for them.
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
So how do winter tyres perform in non-winter conditions (since in the UK, 95% of the time when they're fitted there won't be snow on the ground) ? When do you normally switch over and back? Is it worth it? Do you keep them on a spare wheel and change the whole assembly over?
So how do winter tyres perform in non-winter conditions (since in the UK, 95% of the time when they're fitted there won't be snow on the ground) ? When do you normally switch over and back? Is it worth it? Do you keep them on a spare wheel and change the whole assembly over?
In reply to planetmarshall:
And if you have aircon installed, drive for the first 15 minutes with it on. It means the windscreen won't mist up again before the temperature's fully "equalised".
> Would echo the article's comment about de-misting the windscreen in good time. You see many drivers around with "periscope vision" ( In true UKC fashion, it's only other drivers who do bad things. I on the other hand am perfect ).
And if you have aircon installed, drive for the first 15 minutes with it on. It means the windscreen won't mist up again before the temperature's fully "equalised".
In reply to NottsRich:
You are right about ABS and winter tyres.
I was a bit disappointed that my first car with ABS did not appear to work in reverse skids ( getting part way up an icy hill only to skid backwards when momentum ran out ).
I also found that on very icy hills to go down slowly in neutral was most effective. Too slow and steep for engine braking to assist and the brakes only had to slow the car not the engine as well.
I had assumed all ABS worked on all four brakes independently, is this what you mean by 2 and 4 channel?
To those of you without ABS learn how to cadence brake.
You are right about ABS and winter tyres.
I was a bit disappointed that my first car with ABS did not appear to work in reverse skids ( getting part way up an icy hill only to skid backwards when momentum ran out ).
I also found that on very icy hills to go down slowly in neutral was most effective. Too slow and steep for engine braking to assist and the brakes only had to slow the car not the engine as well.
I had assumed all ABS worked on all four brakes independently, is this what you mean by 2 and 4 channel?
To those of you without ABS learn how to cadence brake.
In reply to climbwhenready:
I've always had my winter tyres on steel rims and just swap the whole lot. In non snowy conditions winter tyres will still work better than summer, provided the temp is below 6 or 7 degrees, above this they are not so effective and will wear out quickly. Which limits their UK use to northern parts.
> So how do winter tyres perform in non-winter conditions (since in the UK, 95% of the time when they're fitted there won't be snow on the ground) ? When do you normally switch over and back? Is it worth it? Do you keep them on a spare wheel and change the whole assembly over?
I've always had my winter tyres on steel rims and just swap the whole lot. In non snowy conditions winter tyres will still work better than summer, provided the temp is below 6 or 7 degrees, above this they are not so effective and will wear out quickly. Which limits their UK use to northern parts.
In reply to climbwhenready:
They do fine and far far better than summer tyres in non summer conditions (since in the UK, 95% of the time when summer tyres are fitted the roads will be wet and not in condition)
> So how do winter tyres perform in non-winter conditions (since in the UK, 95% of the time when they're fitted there won't be snow on the ground) ? When do you normally switch over and back? Is it worth it? Do you keep them on a spare wheel and change the whole assembly over?
They do fine and far far better than summer tyres in non summer conditions (since in the UK, 95% of the time when summer tyres are fitted the roads will be wet and not in condition)
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
I always only travel in the hills using my 4x4 in the winter, though I once did dig my old MR2 out of a heavy fall of snow when staying at Lagangarbh. So always have some sort of shovel. Also a tow rope is always in the boot (was used to tow some lads off the field at Willie's farm in Ogwen (12" of snow). Jump leads are another good idea in winter even if your battery is really good someone else might be in trouble. And finally in these days of electrical key fobs, always keep it in a warm pocket, not in the sac as batteries are very poor when frozen.
I always only travel in the hills using my 4x4 in the winter, though I once did dig my old MR2 out of a heavy fall of snow when staying at Lagangarbh. So always have some sort of shovel. Also a tow rope is always in the boot (was used to tow some lads off the field at Willie's farm in Ogwen (12" of snow). Jump leads are another good idea in winter even if your battery is really good someone else might be in trouble. And finally in these days of electrical key fobs, always keep it in a warm pocket, not in the sac as batteries are very poor when frozen.
Post edited at 19:31
1
3
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
Wonder when the first winter ascent of Snowdon will be?
Wonder when the first winter ascent of Snowdon will be?
Post edited at 23:11
In reply to Orgsm:
Many of them don't actually do very well on the EU wet road test. The new Nokian WR D4 should be better though as it (usually?) gets an 'A' (and in many sizes may be the only winter tyre to do so, maybe possibly?). I should get commission
https://www.nokiantyres.com/winter-tyres/nokian-wr-d4/
I have run them all year (although I have a second set of wheel now; I buy them from mytyres.co.uk). After all, the only time I have ever noticed a difference from tyres is either stuck in snow or stuck in mud, and while they may not be as good around the racetrack they are still up to legal standard (and good ones are potentially still better than bargain-basement summer tyres!).
I didn't notice them wearing out excessively quickly when I used them all year round. Once a winter tyre gets below 4mm tread you should stop considering it a winter tyre though (fine for summer use).
> They do fine and far far better than summer tyres in non summer conditions (since in the UK, 95% of the time when summer tyres are fitted the roads will be wet and not in condition)
Many of them don't actually do very well on the EU wet road test. The new Nokian WR D4 should be better though as it (usually?) gets an 'A' (and in many sizes may be the only winter tyre to do so, maybe possibly?). I should get commission
https://www.nokiantyres.com/winter-tyres/nokian-wr-d4/
I have run them all year (although I have a second set of wheel now; I buy them from mytyres.co.uk). After all, the only time I have ever noticed a difference from tyres is either stuck in snow or stuck in mud, and while they may not be as good around the racetrack they are still up to legal standard (and good ones are potentially still better than bargain-basement summer tyres!).
I didn't notice them wearing out excessively quickly when I used them all year round. Once a winter tyre gets below 4mm tread you should stop considering it a winter tyre though (fine for summer use).
Post edited at 13:03
In reply to andrewmcleod:
I think that's actually an all season tyre...
https://www.nokiantyres.com/winter-tyres/nokian-hakkapeliitta-r2/ is the option for non studded winter tyres and https://www.nokiantyres.com/winter-tyres/nokian-hakkapeliitta-8/ for studded ones (which might not be legal in UK).
Here's a recap of the most current and best wintertyre test avaialable (Aftonbladed vinterdäck test)...
http://www.bast-i-test.se/tester_pa_basta/vinterdacken.html
Google translate should help...
I think that's actually an all season tyre...
https://www.nokiantyres.com/winter-tyres/nokian-hakkapeliitta-r2/ is the option for non studded winter tyres and https://www.nokiantyres.com/winter-tyres/nokian-hakkapeliitta-8/ for studded ones (which might not be legal in UK).
Here's a recap of the most current and best wintertyre test avaialable (Aftonbladed vinterdäck test)...
http://www.bast-i-test.se/tester_pa_basta/vinterdacken.html
Google translate should help...
In reply to HeMa:
I'm no expert but according to the Nokian website the Wr D4 is designed for central European conditions - a mix of dry cold roads, wet cold cold roads, slushy snow, snow.
The Hakkapelitta R2 according to their website is for Northern European winter conditions - I take that to assume snow covered roads most of the winter.
Would it not be reasonable to assume the former is more suited to UK conditions ?
I'm no expert but according to the Nokian website the Wr D4 is designed for central European conditions - a mix of dry cold roads, wet cold cold roads, slushy snow, snow.
The Hakkapelitta R2 according to their website is for Northern European winter conditions - I take that to assume snow covered roads most of the winter.
Would it not be reasonable to assume the former is more suited to UK conditions ?
In reply to Henry Iddon:
Actually, in Helsinki and Southern Finland (Nokian being a Finnish company) the roads aren't as snow covered as much as you might expect. Ice is more of problem - both what is left after ploughing the snow and from traffic just wearing away the snow cover. You have to go out on the country roads to find out what your car is like on real snow! Always one of the fun bits of going ice climbing in Finland! Brum, brum etc. ( http://www.ukhillwalking.com/images/dbpage.php?id=135321 that's my old car parked just past the icefalls)
> The Hakkapelitta R2 according to their website is for Northern European winter conditions - I take that to assume snow covered roads most of the winter.
Actually, in Helsinki and Southern Finland (Nokian being a Finnish company) the roads aren't as snow covered as much as you might expect. Ice is more of problem - both what is left after ploughing the snow and from traffic just wearing away the snow cover. You have to go out on the country roads to find out what your car is like on real snow! Always one of the fun bits of going ice climbing in Finland! Brum, brum etc. ( http://www.ukhillwalking.com/images/dbpage.php?id=135321 that's my old car parked just past the icefalls)
In reply to Henry Iddon:
Ie. all-season tyre... which means that the rubber isn't made as soft as on dedicated winter tyre. Maybe Nokia has cracked the holy grail of tyres, but from my past experience with all-seasons (from Nokia I might add) is that they're not really that good for winter...
So, if the temps are below 5 C, real winter tyres are the way to go. If the temps hover mainly above 10 C and occationally you'll get snow, slush and ice (think of the spring alps). All seasons and chains is the way to go.
Yes, Hakka R2s (or the 8s) are made for conditions when the temps mainly stay below 5 C.
Depends on the temps... See above.
> I'm no expert but according to the Nokian website the Wr D4 is designed for central European conditions - a mix of dry cold roads, wet cold cold roads, slushy snow, snow.
Ie. all-season tyre... which means that the rubber isn't made as soft as on dedicated winter tyre. Maybe Nokia has cracked the holy grail of tyres, but from my past experience with all-seasons (from Nokia I might add) is that they're not really that good for winter...
So, if the temps are below 5 C, real winter tyres are the way to go. If the temps hover mainly above 10 C and occationally you'll get snow, slush and ice (think of the spring alps). All seasons and chains is the way to go.
> The Hakkapelitta R2 according to their website is for Northern European winter conditions - I take that to assume snow covered roads most of the winter.
Yes, Hakka R2s (or the 8s) are made for conditions when the temps mainly stay below 5 C.
> Would it not be reasonable to assume the former is more suited to UK conditions ?
Depends on the temps... See above.
In reply to NottsRich:
On steep down hills with almost no friction (Ice/compressed snow) the momentum carried by a large 4wd can be an issue worth thinking about if following smaller cars.
My previous 2wd fiesta got wipped out on a downhill by a Rangeover that couldnt stop and hence just taboggened into the back of my car which had stopped much better from a simular speed. On a positive note the pads in the back survived unharmed, they were probably worth more than the car...
So agree and would add they can be even worse at stopping in some situations...!
On steep down hills with almost no friction (Ice/compressed snow) the momentum carried by a large 4wd can be an issue worth thinking about if following smaller cars.
My previous 2wd fiesta got wipped out on a downhill by a Rangeover that couldnt stop and hence just taboggened into the back of my car which had stopped much better from a simular speed. On a positive note the pads in the back survived unharmed, they were probably worth more than the car...
So agree and would add they can be even worse at stopping in some situations...!
1
In reply to BloodyJam:
Good point, though it may be as much about the people who drive Chelsea tractors as the actual physical mechanics involved. Not biased of course
> On steep down hills with almost no friction (Ice/compressed snow) the momentum carried by a large 4wd can be an issue worth thinking about if following smaller cars.
> My previous 2wd fiesta got wipped out on a downhill by a Rangeover that couldnt stop and hence just taboggened into the back of my car which had stopped much better from a simular speed. On a positive note the pads in the back survived unharmed, they were probably worth more than the car...
> So agree and would add they can be even worse at stopping in some situations...!
Good point, though it may be as much about the people who drive Chelsea tractors as the actual physical mechanics involved. Not biased of course
2
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
On very rare occasions we sometimes get snow on Dartmoor which can make driving interesting. See...
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_cMqVcb33Rt4/S1Yx3Ycv1YI/AAAAAAAAAFE/4MNH66tYNhQ/s...
Just after this picture was snapped, I crossed over a cattle grid and the snow had drifted up to the height of the walls at an angle of something like 25/30 degrees. This meant driving sidewards so that with all the slipping I was actually going forward in the required direction. This worked fine until I had to pass an abondoned car, but somehow I avoided bashing into it and managed to get off the Moor safely. At the entrance to the outskirts of Ashburton the police were just setting up cones to block the road as lots of people without 4x4's were getting bogged down in the drifts. but it was all good experience for getting used to driving in such conditions, however rare in these parts.
On very rare occasions we sometimes get snow on Dartmoor which can make driving interesting. See...
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_cMqVcb33Rt4/S1Yx3Ycv1YI/AAAAAAAAAFE/4MNH66tYNhQ/s...
Just after this picture was snapped, I crossed over a cattle grid and the snow had drifted up to the height of the walls at an angle of something like 25/30 degrees. This meant driving sidewards so that with all the slipping I was actually going forward in the required direction. This worked fine until I had to pass an abondoned car, but somehow I avoided bashing into it and managed to get off the Moor safely. At the entrance to the outskirts of Ashburton the police were just setting up cones to block the road as lots of people without 4x4's were getting bogged down in the drifts. but it was all good experience for getting used to driving in such conditions, however rare in these parts.
1
In reply to Ben_Climber:
Oh dear...
BMWs are good in the snow if you fit winter tyres.
It's true that there isn't quite as much traction when taking off on the flat but with passengers and some kit in the boot they're better going up steep hills. All the traction in the world is no use anyway if you can't stop or turn.
It also helps if you don't have a wrecking ball where your right foot should be.
> Don't buy a BMW...
Oh dear...
BMWs are good in the snow if you fit winter tyres.
It's true that there isn't quite as much traction when taking off on the flat but with passengers and some kit in the boot they're better going up steep hills. All the traction in the world is no use anyway if you can't stop or turn.
It also helps if you don't have a wrecking ball where your right foot should be.
1
In reply to HeMa:
I've had a hunt around for tyres for our kind of conditions and nokians seemed to come out well, and a mate whose wife is Finnish swears by them. Maybe next time I need new tyres. For now I'm running Michelin alpins and so far so good.
I've had a hunt around for tyres for our kind of conditions and nokians seemed to come out well, and a mate whose wife is Finnish swears by them. Maybe next time I need new tyres. For now I'm running Michelin alpins and so far so good.
In reply to summo:
One year I left my winter tires on by mistake the whole year and I was pleasantly surprised that they did not seem to wear any more than summer tires. Mind you, that summer the so-called "hot" weather wasn't really hot at all, it was barely what I would call warm!
One year I left my winter tires on by mistake the whole year and I was pleasantly surprised that they did not seem to wear any more than summer tires. Mind you, that summer the so-called "hot" weather wasn't really hot at all, it was barely what I would call warm!
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
To really find out how to drive on snow, it is well worth taking a winter driving course on a skid pan. When I moved to Canada I did that for two days on an old airstrip that had been coated with ice. There were two golden rules that I learnt from that (which were not mentioned in this article): (1) Do not feed the steering wheel through the hands: keep the hands locked onto the wheel in the 9-to-3 position rather than the normal 10-to-2. (The 10-to-2 position does not allow enough movement of the wheel with the hands locked into position.). One has to do this, because on snow or ice one can not feel the neutral position of the steering wheel through the castoring of the road wheels. (2) Keep the eyes focused far ahead on the road - at least as far or further than in summer conditions: there is a beginner's tendency in a skid to look down, which can be disastrous. If one focuses far ahead one automatically steers the right way in a skid. There is not time to think about steering in or out of the skid etc. Once one has got used to this, two wheel skids are pretty manageable, whereas four wheel skids are always horrible. As soon as I get onto snow and ice, when driving anywhere, I adopt rules (1) and (2) immediately.
To really find out how to drive on snow, it is well worth taking a winter driving course on a skid pan. When I moved to Canada I did that for two days on an old airstrip that had been coated with ice. There were two golden rules that I learnt from that (which were not mentioned in this article): (1) Do not feed the steering wheel through the hands: keep the hands locked onto the wheel in the 9-to-3 position rather than the normal 10-to-2. (The 10-to-2 position does not allow enough movement of the wheel with the hands locked into position.). One has to do this, because on snow or ice one can not feel the neutral position of the steering wheel through the castoring of the road wheels. (2) Keep the eyes focused far ahead on the road - at least as far or further than in summer conditions: there is a beginner's tendency in a skid to look down, which can be disastrous. If one focuses far ahead one automatically steers the right way in a skid. There is not time to think about steering in or out of the skid etc. Once one has got used to this, two wheel skids are pretty manageable, whereas four wheel skids are always horrible. As soon as I get onto snow and ice, when driving anywhere, I adopt rules (1) and (2) immediately.
6
In reply to BloodyJam:
Can I ask why you stopped?
The type of vehicle isn't the only variable that can cause problems in situations like this. One of my bugbears when driving in winter is drivers that randomly stop on steep hills. Or even as soon as they feel safe on the flat just beyond them
Can I ask why you stopped?
The type of vehicle isn't the only variable that can cause problems in situations like this. One of my bugbears when driving in winter is drivers that randomly stop on steep hills. Or even as soon as they feel safe on the flat just beyond them
1
In reply to BloodyJam:
Yes it generally takes a 4x4 longer to let go, but when it does it's usually in a big way.
Yes it generally takes a 4x4 longer to let go, but when it does it's usually in a big way.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...