Best mountain stove?

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 The Ice Doctor 01 Jan 2016
My MSR has died, have mixed feelings about how effective it was at altitude anyway.

Not a massive fan of jet boil systems.

Considering a purchase this week, lots of choice. Used a primus recently and liked it, but you have to pay for gas cylinders that don't last long.

What do you recommend and why?

Mountaineering use only. High altitude, in all weathers and potentially minus temperature conditions.

Look forward to reading the replies....
 mp3ferret 02 Jan 2016
In reply to The Ice Doctor:
If you don't mind a smelly petrol stove, how about an msr whisper light. I've still got one of the original style ones - must be about 20 years old and still going strong. Not great if you want to cook stuff slowly or in a single skin tent (or on a porta ledge) -but great if you're just boiling water.

Marc
Post edited at 22:04
In reply to mp3ferret:

An extra few quid gets you the dragonfly- basically the whisperlite with controllable burn rate.

Had one for 15 years, burns anything, one of the bits I like best about camping. ...
 alasdair19 02 Jan 2016
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:
the dragon fly is very good if loud.

was very impressed with another teams reactor in the alps they were producihg water twice ad fast as us with our pocket rocket
 Robert Durran 02 Jan 2016
In reply to alasdair19:

> the dragon fly is very good if loud.

MSR's are meant to be loud. It's a big part of their attraction. I love my new Dragonfly for its controllabilty but, noisy as it is, it doesn't quite match my old XGK's roar. Whisperlites sadly live up to their name.
In reply to Robert Durran:

Another Vote for the Dragonfly great burner I personally like the noise
Or the Newer Whisperlite universal is a good shout ,Reactors are great
Don't think anything works as well for 2/3 people so Quickly but I'm slightly biased
Being a big Msr Fan
In reply to Robert Durran:

Another thumbs up for the noise of the dragonfly- I love the way it sounds as you 'open the throttle', though the positive association with breakfast/tea being nearly ready helps. ..
 Robert Durran 02 Jan 2016
In reply to stevieweesaxs107:

> Don't think anything works as well for 2/3 people so Quickly but I'm slightly biased

I'm impressed with a friend's controllable Optimus multifuel stove. It looks more robustly built than MSR's, but was expensive.

In reply to The Ice Doctor:
You've given a bit of a vague request.

Firstly, which MSR did you have? You've said you didn't like it at altitude; yet lots of people have recommended...MSRs.

Secondly, which primus did you use and like? I have a Primus Omnifuel and up until last year had never let me down. Had a bit of problem with the pump (I think bad fuel waxed up in very cold temps, then a part went missing while I was trying to field service it in -15c). But other than that it's quieter than MSR and takes either cartridge gas or liquid. It is a bit heavy/bukly though, compared to some.

Thirdly, you've said " Mountaineering use only. High altitude, in all weathers and potentially minus temperature conditions."

Does this mean 5000m winter. What about on-route bivvies? What types of routes? Technical climbing, or classic mountaineering?

There's no "one size fits all" so being a bit more specific might help with replies.
Post edited at 00:26
 Alan Breck 03 Jan 2016
In reply to The Ice Doctor:

http://adventuresinstoving.blogspot.co.uk/ is worth a look if you want to do some research.
 Siward 03 Jan 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

Optimus Nova? Fantastic bit of kit and, as you say, is all brass and stainless steel.
 planetmarshall 03 Jan 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

> MSR's are meant to be loud. It's a big part of their attraction.

Definitely. I like the fact that my Reactor actually sounds like one.
 Robert Durran 03 Jan 2016
In reply to Siward:

> Optimus Nova? Fantastic bit of kit and, as you say, is all brass and stainless steel.

That's the one. Probably a bit heavier, but the pump feels like it could take a lot more abuse than the slightly flimsy plastic of an MSR one.
 mp3ferret 03 Jan 2016
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

i too have a dragonfly and also love it - but generally use the whisperlight if its just going to boil water (for tea, or mre's, etc).

Was out on the Scottish border at Kielder last week and had my dragonfly with me. I couldn't hear a thing for the sound of the howling wind (it was very windy) but the dragonfly soon drowned that racket out.

 Sam W 03 Jan 2016
In reply to mp3ferret:

Another vote for the Dragonfly. Burns anything, reliable, worked perfectly during 2 weeks camping at 4000m and when mine did break (weld) after several years hard use I enquired about repair, expecting and happy to pay, and it was done under warranty. Great bit of kit.
 ChrisNaylor 03 Jan 2016
In reply to The Ice Doctor:

Another vote for the Primus Omnifuel, mine's worked great in all temps and weathers. I use mine with one of MSR's 2 person cook systems which is pretty light although it can seem quite bulky at first.

If you were to want to hang it you can also seat it in a pan and use a cable hanging system, bit of a bodge DIY job but it works!
chrisatwcr 03 Jan 2016
In reply to The Ice Doctor:

I love my whisperlight, have had years of use. Seems to work well on top of mountains, half way up mountains, on the way to Mountains and no where near Mountains. Not so good inside tents though.
But if I were to buy another stove it would be a dragonfly. Not because of the noise, just for the controllability.
 HeMa 04 Jan 2016
In reply to The Ice Doctor:
> Mountaineering use only. High altitude, in all weathers and potentially minus temperature conditions.

Are you talkin' about real high altitude or the Alps?

For real altitude, jetboils/reactors are the thing almost everyone is using. Think of Everest, Chogori and so on.

For expeditions (and basecamps or siege style stuff). Liquid fuel stoves (like Optimus Nova something, MSR XKG II or Primus Multi/Optifuels) are mainly used.

Liquid fuel stuff is also used when low and cold (sub 5000). So winter Alps and Scandiland when bivouacking and going slow & heavy. For fast & light, Jetboils (or similar) seem to be the choice.

I have a Jetboil version from Primus... and also Primus Multifuel (old version of Omni, not as easy to set to simmer)... Plus MSR Pocket Rocket.

Pocket Rocket gets very rarely used, the Jetboil-alike is used pretty much always on alpine trips and when I have to lug the stove in the sack. Multifuel is used with gas-cartridges on summer car-camping trips and with liquid fuel on winter dealios (when no warm shelter is available).

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