In reply to wannabeagoat:
Do you really need a synthetic jacket with a _waterproof_ membrane (Pertex Shield+, 20k mm hydrostatic head)? I can imagine that baselayer+softshell+primaloft insulation+waterproof membrane(Pertex Shield)+waterproof membrane(GTX) is going to hold all the sweat.
Is it not a belay jacket you are after? Mountain Equipment Fitzroy is probably the flagship model, though I never tried one. I can't tell you how warm your jacket needs to be, but something in between 60g and 100g (per square meter, but usually it just says 60g/100g/whatever) is pretty much standard.
After my own Rab Xenon jacket got that dirty that many washes did not help (been dropped into mud several times, sat in the rucksack in Dolomites/Scotland all the time, worn in crags, indoor walls, every day, etc.), I just look for something cheap that does the job. I obviously use it while eating (you stop moving -> you get colder -> you need a jacket on top) which does not help to keep it clean. I had two washes back to back and I have no idea what's going on with that jacket. Not too fused to get it cleaned professionally, but I probably should.
Post edited at 20:03