Winter routes on The Ben/Cairngorms

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 Goucho 23 Nov 2015
In preparation for a couple of winter sortes in the Alps, in Jan next year, I'm planning a couple of trips to Scotland when some decent conditions arrive - hopefully in the next 3-4 weeks??? - around The Ben/Caingorms.

I've done a lot of the classic V's and several VI's back in the day, but am a bit out of touch with recent developments over the last 15 years, so looking for some new recommendations (don't want to really repeat routes I've already done) around that grade to see just how rusty I am, and as a barometer for what I can realistically and sensibly aim my aged body at in the Alps!

Both ice, and mixed would be ideal, but I'm not interested in 200' of dry tooling to reach 30' of ice type routes - they'd be too hard for me anyway

I'm sure the collective expertise of UKC can point me in the right direction.

In reply to Goucho:

I presume you will be cutting steps, have you tried Zero, with the hut poker for protection.
OP Goucho 23 Nov 2015
In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

> I presume you will be cutting steps, have you tried Zero, with the hut poker for protection.

 Rich W Parker 23 Nov 2015
In reply to Goucho:
Gargoyle Wall springs to mind, if you haven't done it. It seems to get quite a bit of early season traffic these years. Absolutely brilliant. I'd have pooped myself if the cracks were iced. I think Route 1 on Carn Dearg Buttress is a belter too though my mates thought it repulsive, perhaps due to the cracks being full of verglas, resulting in much fear and frustration from myself.

Savage Slit over east? I'm thinking of these because they're rock-centric. I'm hoping that the weather in the foresable is right for ice building, but who knows! Last year was great.

Edited for typos. Twice ffs!
Post edited at 18:17

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