La Sportiva Alternatives

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 WillCass 31 Oct 2015
I'm looking for recommendations for alternative climbing shoes which have a similar fit to La Sportiva shoes. Currently using both Muira Lace and Muira VS, I get on with the shoes and have no problem with fit or feel but could be tempted into a change.

Any recommendations?

Thanks

Removed User 31 Oct 2015
In reply to WillCass:

I thought Scarpa Instinct VS were a good comparitive fit. I wouldn't switch away from LS personally though, go Solutions if you want something above Miuras.
 ianstevens 31 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:
Saying Solutions are above murias is a bit of a leap - you're compared no apples and oranges. I know which I'd rather use for slabby smearing (hint: not solutions)!

To the OP: personally, I wouldn't bother. I've used a lot of different types of shoes and in 10 years of climbing Muiras are my faves. I'm sure someone will come and one up me know, saying Sportiva's are wank.
Post edited at 18:50
OP WillCass 31 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:

Thanks, solutions have been in my mind too, to be honest. One of the guys I climb with uses them. I'm just considering a change but whether I'll actually move away from La Sportiva and their shoes which fit so well remains to be seen. Cheers.
Removed User 31 Oct 2015
In reply to ianstevens:

I use both and don't doubt that they each have advantages and disadvantages. Personally I lead with Miuras and boulder in Solutions. If I was doing a gritstone slab I'd be using Solutions, if it was anything less grippy/smeary than grit I'd be edging with Miuras since I find they edge better than Solutions - which could very well just mean I find it easier to edge with them, not that they are intrinsically better at edging..

Either way, I wouldn't switch away from Sportiva. They fit astoundingly well on me and I think that goes a long way towards inspiring confidence/trust when you're on tiny shitty footholds.
 neuromancer 31 Oct 2015
In reply to WillCass:

According to Sportiva Miura VS fit wide, so the closest comparison for a wider foot in terms of downturn and asymmetry is the instinct vs - and they size up at about 0.5 euro smaller (+- stretch).

They have slightly thinner rubber, but its xs edge. More rubber on the toe though.

If you want to go more aggressive from a Miura vs, geniuses are also wide foot suitable, good for smearing, pockets and a great heel but likely to give you permenant crippling f*cked toes if you were to try a slate test piece.

If only they still sold instinct laces! A Miura lace for wide feet!

 galpinos 31 Oct 2015

> If only they still sold instinct laces! A Miura lace for wide feet!

They do, they just don't import them. They're available from mainland Europe I believe? New version out next year.

 Fraser 01 Nov 2015
In reply to WillCass:

I've been a La Sportiva wearer for many, many years now. First it was the Mythos, then Miura VS, then Miura lace-ups and more recently Solutions. In order of improved performance and acceptance of reduced comfort that's just the way things went. A few months ago however, I bought a pair of Scarpa Booster S and that's now my go-to shoe for performance routes or rpoblems. I don't boulder that much these days but the Solution is still hard to beat in terms of toe-down pulling power if I'm on steep, overhanging terrain. The Boosters though seem to suit me better overall for the type of climbing I do.
In reply to WillCass:

Along with the other posts, I switch between Scarpa and Sportiva. Same sizing in each works for me. My go to shoe was the Stix until I tried on a pair of Testarossas in Snell Sports which suit me really well. As with most climbing and outdoor stuff, Bergfreunde, Bergzeit and Exxpozed hold everything in stock at excellent prices.
 AlanLittle 01 Nov 2015
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Another vote for Testarossas. I use Miura Laces for most things these days, but Testarossas feel a bit more precise for hard (for me) limestone redpointing.
 Tigger 01 Nov 2015
In reply to AlanLittle:

Just tried out my first pair of Testarossa's today (picked up on the cheap) downsized half a size from my miura vs and they feel brilliant!! A little dead space in the heel and the slingshot doesn't feel too tight (which the bone spur on my heel approves of) but the edge like a dream! As for la sportiva alternatives I've been told the scarpa instincts are designed by the same person who dreamed up the miuras.
OP WillCass 02 Nov 2015
In reply to All:

Thanks very much for all the replies so far. With La Sportiva shoes working so well for me I doubt I will make a switch away from them, it's hard to when you know a shoe fits you so well and you don't want to make an expensive mistake with your shoes. I will probably end up trying some of the other shoes in their range. Thanks.

Ysgo 02 Nov 2015
In reply to WillCass:

There's a reason why some people are suggesting trying Scarpa: Heinz Mariacher
Started working for Sportiva in the early 80s. Created the comfy well-made shoes (Mariacher), the slingshot rand (Kendo), No-Edge technology (Mantra) and P3 (Testarossa). Moved to Scarpa in 2006.

http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid...

 machine 06 Nov 2015
In reply to WillCass:

I use Scarpa instinct and Scarpa boosters at the min and I think these are both great shoes.
 machine 06 Nov 2015
In reply to WillCass:

I use Scarpa instinct and Scarpa boosters at the min and I think these are both great shoes.
 alasdair19 07 Nov 2015
In reply to WillCass:

scapa vapour lace old style. the new ones may be good too

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