UKH

I need to replace a goretex shell jacket, which I've owned for 12ys now.

Obviously a tightwad, reluctant to spend lots of money on something that I'll trash.

Water/wind proof, lightweight, flexible, to be worn over light fleece, sturdy enough to endure trashing that climbing involves. Generally do spring-autumn UK cragging - no snow and ice!

Any thoughts on this one at £79?

http://www.outside.co.uk/shop/sale/Vapour-rise+Lite+Alpine

In reply to Owen W-G:

That's not waterproof...

In reply to Owen W-G:

I loved my old Vaporise smock, and when it eventually got trashed I replaced it with the current version you've linked to. The fabric seems a bit softer and less durable than the older model and I've already put a few rips in it. Despite that I find it a good cragging jacket which is comfortable in a range of conditions, but as has been pointed out it isn't waterproof. It does however dry quickly, and for summer cragging when I'm expecting it to stay fairly dry it's usually OK. I wear it for most things, including winter, but usually take a hard shell too for when the weather really turns.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Fairly happy with my Mountain Equipment Squall - unlined, lightweight, stretchy and seems pretty abrasion resistant. Not sure the diagonal zip was a great idea and it's a pity it doesn't have a built in stuff sack, but otherwise good.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Marmot Precip, or similar offering fron TNF (Venture?)...

Or better yet something cheaper from Decathlon.

Keep it cheap enough, so when ya trash it, you won't feel too bad to bin it.

Oh, and keep it in the rucksack until it starts raining.

Some kind of (semi) wind blockin' softshell might be a good bet. ME Squall looked like a good option of perhaps Patagucci Leviathan.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

+1 don't buy that it's not waterproof

In reply to Owen W-G:

I'll 2nd "Marmot Precip, or similar offering from TNF (Venture?)..." as good lighweight easily carried jackets for cheap. I have both with the former about to replace the latter but they are paper thin. The sound of a nut key on a bandoleer ripping up the TNF during a high reach was gutting but fixed back at home with duck tape and superglue.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Since I've discovered these pile pertex lined jackets it's been a revolution. Windproof, quick drying (especially useful if there's a sweaty walk in). I find them good on everything from sea cliffs to Mountain routes. I'd probably want something more substantial for winter. As others have said, they're not waterproof, but then if it's raining that hard, I'm generally not climbing.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Montane Atomic can be had for around £85, Pertex Shield fabric. No knowledge of durability as I've only had it a week but it looks and feels pretty tough.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:


It's not waterproof in the slightest. Go out in light rain and you'll quickly get soaked through. That Pertex Equilibrium fabric sucks in the water like a sponge.

Tom

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:


Depends how often the OP goes cragging in the rain, a lot of people don't in which case why trash an expensive waterproof jacket when a soft shell will be cheaper, more comfortable and last longer?

In reply to Sharp:

OP specified water/wind proof and it's replacing a goretex so I assumed he's looking for a full waterproof. You're right though not everyone needs one.

In reply to Owen W-G:

I have a Marmot Driclime jacket, it's one of the most versatile garments that I own. It's not rated as waterproof but I once came down from Gimmer in the rain with a friend who had the same jacket. The jackets got soaked but when we took them off in the ODG we were bone dry. A couple of guys who descended at the same time in £400 Goretex had wet patches all over.

Al

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Well, for me the fully waterproof jacket is used as a windblocker when cragging (to add warmt) and also when it does start to rain, keep me even relatively dry'ish on the way back to the car/pub/bus/home.

Very rarely do I climb rock in the rain...

This is where a robust, cheapo from say Decathlon does a pretty good job. And most of the time it stays in the rucksack. And pretty much never is used when actually climbing

For those with ambitions for longer rock routes (where you might end up gettin' caught in rain), perhaps something more expensive (usually equals better climbing oriented cut and also perhaps lighter weight) might also be an option. Just so to remember, that light weight and robust don't go well hand in hand.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Personally I really like the apparently discontinued Needlesports Pertex top for general cragging as its really tough and easy to carry up routes.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Something like that that would probably be good for cragging, if combined with a cheap waterproof, such as an £8 Decathlon Pack-a-mac.

In reply to Owen W-G:

For cragging I use a cheap Aldi "soft shell" top, which is windproof and copes fine with drizzle, backed up with an old lightweight waterproof for when it rains. It's lasted for almost 15 years now, though the zip's just gone so I now use it like a pullover.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Fair do's, I wasn't sure if that meant water or wind proof or water and wind proof, because he linked to a windproof I assumed the former but perhaps he's open to both.

In reply to Owen W-G:

recently got a ME Gryphon jacket for just this purpose, replacing a 12 year old goretex jacket, and absolutely love it. Got all the useful features of a mountain jacket (napoleon chest pocket that can fit a guide book in) but nice and light and breathable. Cotswld have it in green for £120 atm so not breaking the bank considering what you're getting.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:


If the DWR is working it should repel very light rain, but you're right it doesn't take long for it to get wet and it shouldn't be thought of as a waterproof. However if you're wearing it next to the skin, or over a wicking layer, then you should stay warm if you're keeping moving, and it will dry very quickly.

If you want to ensure you stay dry, then you'd best look for a cheap, lightweight hardshell, but it might not be very comfortable when it's not raining. No softshell will give you that degree of weather protection. However for typical cragging conditions when you're not really expecting rain but then a softshell is probably more comfortable and versatile, but accept that if it should rain you might get wet (but should dry off again quickly).