Andrea Boldrini rock shoes - Any good?

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 Bisonkills 17 Aug 2015

Anyone tried the Andrea Boldrini shoes? I am currently climbing in La Sportiva Katanas, but wanting something a little more comfortable, yet still precise. The toe box on the Katanas really does give my big toes some grief after a few hours use.

Looking at the Apache Light as this came recommended form the guys at BF. Any opinions / experience of these shoes? They are quite pricey!

I primarily boulder, indoors at around V5 and outdoors on Grit at F5-6 (I'm still getting used to outdoor stuff).
Post edited at 22:48
 Durbs 17 Aug 2015
In reply to Bisonkills:

As a previous Katana wearer, I changed purely for cost reason. I found Edelrid Typhoons similar to Katanas, but a bit higher volume, so a bit more comfortable, but for me the heel wasn't as good due to the large volume of the shoe. (I'm selling a brand new pair for £40 )

I've just moved to Tenaya Oasis' and they're fantastic. More comfortable than Kats, but also seem better all round performance too.
 mrchewy 17 Aug 2015
In reply to Bisonkills:

Had Apache Lights - they have no support at all, so not too clever on small edges but good for smearing. A really soft shoe.
OP Bisonkills 17 Aug 2015
In reply to mrchewy:
Hmm, that doesn't sound ideal to me. I may have to continue the search. Curious what the Ocun Ozone shoes are like too.

The Katanas are only my 2nd pair of shoes, my first 'real' bouldering shoes, so still trying to find out what works for me. So much choice, and it's hard to find a place where you can try all these different shoes on!
Post edited at 22:51
 mrchewy 17 Aug 2015
In reply to Bisonkills:

FWIW - The Apaches Lights are my actual foot shape and I now wear Scarpa Instinct Slippers and Vapors. I have tried Katanas, the velcros kill the big toe but the laces are not so bad. I'm guessing a different last and the laces were someone elses and already broken in..
OP Bisonkills 18 Aug 2015
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks, that’s super helpful. I’ve been chatting with the folks at Boldrini, who have been very helpful, but may have to back off buying those. I definitely want good edging in a shoe.

I’ll see if I can try a pair of Vapour Vs anywhere. You don’t happen to know how the sizing compares to the Katanas? I find myself having to order online a lot, so it’s a case of playing the ‘take an educated guess at size’. I wear the Katanas in an EU 37 / UK 4, but they are a tad toe crushing! Take a size 38 / UK5 – 5.5 street shoe.

Also want to try the 5.10 Anasazi VCS.
 mrchewy 18 Aug 2015
In reply to Bisonkills:

My feet are 42eu in normal footwear. Vapours I have in 41 and Instincts in 40 (Instincts fit slightly better), I think the Katanas laces I tried were 40.5 but not exactly sure on that. I have some Anasazi VCS in 41.5 but they are an all day mountain multipitch shoe, that fit the toes okay but the heel is awful. Well baggy.
cb294 18 Aug 2015
In reply to Bisonkills:

> The Katanas are only my 2nd pair of shoes, my first 'real' bouldering shoes, so still trying to find out what works for me.

That sounds like an odd choice! I have Katanas, but mainly use them as multipitch shoes. They have little rigid support but are so stretchy that they will fit to your feet after a few days.

For steep stuff, indoors training and bouldering I would always go for shoes with more downturn. Currently I am using La Sportiva Solutions, as the LS shape suits my feet well.

CB
 gd303uk 18 Aug 2015
In reply to cb294:
i am guessing the op is using the katana velcro for bouldering and you might be using the laces, same name but different shoe the velcro is more aggressive.

to the op.
i use muira laces for edgey routes but purchased a pair of Boldrini Puma ( i think, lost the box) to replace them, a bit stiffer and a bit more comfier, i think they will be great for me.
very happy with them , although i am still using the muiras mostly for harder routes,
Post edited at 10:58
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cb294 18 Aug 2015
In reply to gd303uk:

No, I am talking about the velcros. Have been my multipitch shoe for years (after breaking them in in short, painful gym sessions....). Once stretched they feel comfy as socks, offer little edging support, but are great for smearing slabs and cracks, my favourite sorts of terrain.

CB
 john arran 18 Aug 2015
In reply to Bisonkills:

If you're looking for "comfortable, yet still precise" I'd recommend trying Boreal's Marduk. I took some to Venezuela earlier this year in a bigger size than usual as I knew I'd have to keep them on for much longer periods, it would be pretty warm, and my usual tighter shoes promised to be agony. I've been so impressed with how precise they are I wear them now for almost all my climbing and suffer a lot less discomfort at the crag as a result.
OP Bisonkills 18 Aug 2015
In reply to cb294:
Mine are the velcro and don't seem to have really stretched all that much in 8 months of use. Still tight as hell. Perhaps I downsized too aggressively. I find they edge okay, but perhaps I'm climbing at a low grade than yourself, this could make all the difference. I've got little to compare them to really, but they were obviously a step up from my Boreal Jokers!

So, the search is still very much on for a better shoe that suits my feet.

I'm the same as MrChewey, they really aren't comfy in the big toe area!
Post edited at 13:32
cb294 18 Aug 2015
In reply to Bisonkills:

My Katanas are 43.5, while for comparison my La Sportiva Nepal mountaineering boots are 45.5. As long as they are tight they will edge well, but this is more because they support your feet by compression rather than by some inbuilt edging support. My LS Solutions or even the 5.10 Anasazi Velcros I rarely use (normally too painful for my level of climbing, so they only get dug out for special occasions) offer much more support simply by their construction.

If you are looking for a more aggressive shoe that still has a reasonably comfortable fit, especially for wide feet, you may want to try Scarpa Feroce or similar models. I tried Feroces when I bought my LS Solutions, and liked them a lot (went with the Solutions due to a massive discount).

CB
 spragglerocks 20 Aug 2015
In reply to Bisonkills:

I have Katana velcros in a UK 4 and had to go to UK 5.5 in Vapour velcros, the 5's crippled me. Street shoe size 5.5/6.

I have really narrow feet - I like Five Ten Verdes for grit (size 5) but the vapours and the Five Ten Blancos (5.5) are better for climbs where you need to edge - e.g limestone. I find the Anasazi VCS's don't fit my narrow feet even the LV ones have too much volume.

The katanas are great on Grit but I find them too soft for most other things.
Donald82 23 Aug 2015
In reply to Durbs:

Plus one for the Oasi's
 wbo 23 Aug 2015
In reply to Bisonkills: in contrast to Spraggle I have wide fit. Scarpa and Boreal work for me, Sportiva don't and forget 5,10. I also have a pair of Boldrini that are an Apache laceup. They're pretty good except the toe box is a bit low, but they're good pocket and edging shoes. If they fit, then I'd say they're good

 Wsdconst 23 Aug 2015
In reply to Bisonkills:

I had some but they started to fall apart after about 6 weeks,just on with sending them back.dont know if this is usual or a one off though

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