SMC Journal 2001

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 paulpitcher 05 Aug 2015
Does anyone have a copy of the SMC Journal 2001?
I think this has some entries for Meall nan Tarmachan (Creagan Lochan) winter routes which I want to update on the crag page.
A few climbs in particular are of interest, I'm looking for the descriptions for each one:

Turf Accountant * III
Last Past the Post * III
Blanche *
Toxophily

I have contacted SMC but I don't think that year is available any more - can anyone help out?
In reply to paulpitcher:

Have you checked the SMC website?All the new routes sections going back many years are available as free downloads.
 Fiona Reid 05 Aug 2015
In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:
2003 is the earliest pdf on the SMC website thus finding someone with a paper copy might be the only option.

I'm sure someone on UKC will have a copy of the 2001 journal.

If you don't have any joy finding a copy I can take a look next time I stay at Raeburn's Hut as there's quite a lot of older editions there - good reading on long winter nights! If 2001 is there I'm happy to photograph the appropriate pages and email them to you.

Cheers,

Fiona

Post edited at 15:07
 Bob Aitken 05 Aug 2015
In reply to paulpitcher:

Andy Nisbet will probably be along shortly with all the details you need in digital form ...
but in the meantime, I do have the SMC Journal for 2001. Under Creag an Lochain, on the An Innean buttress, it has records for 'Blanche', and for 'Turf Accountant' (just a one-liner), as well as for 'Home Front' (IV) which appears to be roughly adjacent. For obvious reasons there's nothing in that issue of the Journal for 'Toxophily' (FA 1988, details in the 1989 SMCJ), or for 'Last Past the Post' (FA 2006). 'Last Past the Post' already has a description at www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=351804, and/or should be on the SMC's online listing.

If you can confirm which of these you're interested in, I'll transcribe the descriptions and email a text version to you - the journals are very tight-bound, and I'd rather not knacker the spines by copying or scanning them.

Cheers
Bob
 Colin Moody 05 Aug 2015
In reply to paulpitcher:

A couple of routes Bob mentioned are here.

http://www.colinmoody.com/Site/Blank.html

I'll remove the photo in a week or two.
 Andy Nisbet 05 Aug 2015
In reply to paulpitcher:

Only two of them are in SMCJ 2001. The others aren't in 2000 or 2002 either. But they are in the guidebook - Arran and Arrochar.

MEALL NAN TARMACHAN, Creag an Lochain (Map Ref 591 402 to 590 410):
R. Simpson & G.E. Little have been climbing on the crag separately and have both done many of the routes.
This crag lies 500m north of Arrow Buttress and holds the routes Turf Accountant and Tote Gully. The main face is 600m long and 200m high and is characterised by the following features (from left to right):
An Innean (The Anvil): a shapely buttress with a steep triangular base immediately below the summit.
Coire nan Easan: the hanging corrie with its distinctive waterfalls.
An Caisteal: The square tower on top of the ridge defining Coire nan Easan on the right.
Y Gully: Drains the central mass of lower angled broken ground to the right of An Caisteal.
Coire Tuath (North Coire): The northerly section of the face drained by a big right-facing corner.

An Innean:
Blanche - 180m IV. D.F. Lang, R. Simpson (alt). 20th January, 2001.
A direct line up the left flank of the Anvil via the conspicuous long icefall.
1. 45m From a small snow bay, climb directly over a series of walls to a 6m ice frieze at 25m. Climb this (crux) and continue to the icefall in the middle of the face.
2. 45m Climb the ice. A classic pitch.
3. 90m Two pitches of easier mixed climbing lead to a turfy headwall.

Turf Accountant: A shallow groove and chimney up the left side of the base of the Anvil.
 Bob Aitken 05 Aug 2015
In reply to paulpitcher:
Thanks Colin & Andrew, we're getting there. Here's Toxophily from SMCJ 1989:

Meall nan Tarmachan, Creag an Lochain, Arrow Buttress
- Toxophily 220m, GRADE IV
G.E.Little, D.Johnson. 6th February, 1988
At the left and highest end of the crag lies the distinctive Arrow Buttress (map ref 594 396), with the shallow Arrow Chimney (grade III/IV) on its left flank. This route takes a fairly direct line up the centre of the face. Climbed under unfavourable conditions of unconsolidated snow - neve recommended.
Start just right of the toe of the buttress at a fence post. Ascend steep groove then its left edge to a narrow ledge. Move right to belay on an icicle (45m). Move back left then trend leftwards until a short turfy wall can be climbed to gain a good belay under an overhang (25m). (Under good conditions the groove directly above the icicle may be climbable). Climb up past a tree then break back rightwards across the face to belay on a short ramp (40m). Move right then climb directly up a shallow groove to belay at rocks on the left (35m). Up a tiny chimney and steep ground above to below an overhang. Traverse right and up to a ledge (30m). Continue further right until it is possible to break back left and up to belay on a large iron post (45m).

OP paulpitcher 06 Aug 2015
Gents, thanks for all your help - unfortunately, it seems to me somewhat confusing.

I have uploaded a crag shot which I have tried to label - hopefully my interpretation is correct.

Anyone have details about Fragile Fall?
 Bob Aitken 06 Aug 2015
In reply to paulpitcher:

I confess I don't know the terrain in any detail, and I can't for the moment find any conclusive photographs, so I may be quite wrong, but my very strong impression from the SMC Journal description is that your attempted identifications of key crag features on your photo all relate to Arrow Buttress. That buttress descends NE towards the Lochan na Lairige reservoir roughly at its mid-point. Creag an Lochain is the crag running north of that, parallel to the Lochain na Lairig, to near its head. The 2001 SMCJ describes the Creag as lying 500m north of Arrow Buttress, extending from GR 591402 to 590410, i.e. north of the burn that falls from the Lochan an Tarbh-uisge. I suspect this is very much round the corner to the right beyond your photo.

Fragile Fall is described in the 2001 SMC Journal as the central ice smear below Coire nan Easan.
OP paulpitcher 06 Aug 2015
In reply to Bob Aitken:

Thanks Bob, I'm going to spend a bit more time digesting it all. I can't wait till the white blanket returns and I can spend a few days getting my bearings. The objective is to try to amalgamate all the info into one topo to encourage more traffic on the crag.

Thanks for all your help.
OP paulpitcher 07 Aug 2015
In reply to Bob Aitken:

I've had a good look at it all last night and I think I have the layout correct now.

I feel a Meall nan Tarmachan (Creagan Lochan) revival this winter - lets see what our season holds! Keen to get out and climb some of these routes (other than Planet Fear! - any takers?).

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