UKH

Planning my second trip to the alps this summer. Having realised weight and bulkiness is a major factor in alpinism i need to get a more suitable sleeping arrengment. last year i used a bulky synthetic mammut Jura bag lower comfort -8 with a bulky mountain equipment thermarest all wrapped in a light rab storm Bivvy bag. more than warm enough in -9c. but the problem being, more then 3/4 of my 45ltr pack was taken up by my sleeping gear (obvioustly synthetic bag not helping there). what would be the perfect alpine sleeping arrangement. lightness and minimum bulk being slightly prioritised over sleep comfort. maybe lower limit around -6
Route in mind. 'the Walker spur' grand jorasses

In reply to hoppojoe7:

I am looking to get a Marmot Plasma 15 myself for similar temperature ranges, so if definitely put that on your list.

Review: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3605

In reply to hoppojoe7:

Going back a (very) long while - when we did the Walker my mate had a down bag that had inner and outer so we split the bag and he being smaller took the inner and I got the outer. Absolutely no idea as to what the ratings of the bag or its constituent parts were.

Some general observations:

1. a snug fitting bag will be warmer than a loose one - you aren't pushing warm air out and letting cold air back in.
2. Usually you are going to be sleeping in your clothes as well so allow for this.
3. Getting in to the bag whilst you are still warm from activity helps - you are retaining warmth rather than having to heat up again.
4. Alpine bivvies tend to the "some" rest end of the spectrum rather than complete five star experience - not that the views off the typical alpine climb aren't five star.
5. Being slightly cold/uncomfortable encourages you to get going in the morning! Don't want to be too uncomfortable though.

In reply to hoppojoe7:

My brother used the Mountain Hardware Phantom 32, which he finds fine in most conditions (he sleeps quite warm).
http://www.mountainhardwear.com/mens-phantom-32-regular-OU8486.html

I am going for something a bit warmer, so am about to buy the Rab Neutrino Endurance 400 for very similar routes to the ones you mention. The advantage being that I might just get away without having a bivy bag on a guaranteed dry night:
http://www.mountainhardwear.com/mens-phantom-32-regular-OU8486.html

If you want super, super light then the Rab Neutrino Endurance 200 is a good option (again, supposedly usable without a bivy bag):
http://www.rockrun.com/rab-neutrino-endurance-200

In reply to hoppojoe7:

Budget?

I'd use my PHD Minim 300 (which appears in their sales normally) b ut if I was buying today, would probably get an ME Xero 300 http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/xero-300

In reply to galpinos:

I've that bag as well - got it in their spring sale this year Was warm enough in Scotland a couple of weekends ago bivvying out under a tarp though with a bivvy bag over the top.

In reply to Bob:

300g of down seems a great weight, bought it for mountain marathons but it's become the bag I use for everything.

In reply to hoppojoe7:

This? Seems a bargain

http://www.rockrun.com/camping/sleeping-bags-down/salewa-phantom-1

In reply to nickinscottishmountains:



Blimey, you wouldn't pay 270 quid for it, though...

To the OP:

Have you thought about a half bag? Assuming you're taking a down jacket, it's a feasible - if not particularly snug - alternative. I've got a PD200, which is basically the bottom half of a PD400, weighs just under a pound and packs down tiny. I got it for about fifty quid second hand - they're worth looking out for - but if money's no object, PHD do a few models.

With all your clothes on, it's going to be ground contact which makes the real difference, so decent mats will be critical. Consider a 3/4 self-inflating with a decent full-length CCF, which can strap to the outside of your pack and which will weigh very little.

My pack also has a foam insert for the back system, which folds out to double as a (tiny) sleeping mat. You wouldn't want to rely on it alone, but when used under the body, it makes a noticeable difference.

In reply to hoppojoe7:

I had a ME Xero 250, but found it slightly too cold for some summer alpine stuff. I now have a Sea to Summit Talus TS1, which is slightly warmer (400 grams of 750+ fillpower down, and a lower comfort limit of -5). It has impregnated down and a water resistant outer, which I really appreciate for open bivies and tarp camping. It is roomy enough for wearing a down jacket inside, and the build quality really impresses me (when compared to the rab and ME bags that I owned)!