UKH

Following on from my review of the Mountain Equipment Hope Pants (see UKC Review), I have been out and about on the UK crags in the Squall Jacket - and yes it has seen some squalls!

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7392

In reply to UKC Gear:

No mention of the uncomfortably tight sleeves then. I tried one on and thought it horribly restrictive, even with the stretch. And I'm a stick insect.

In reply to BnB:

Hmm, haven't really noticed that - I've worn mine with 3 layers underneath without problems. The sleeves are certainly narrower than most jackets, but the material is pretty stretchy.

In reply to BnB:

Interesting, I didn't find this to be an issue - do you mean the sleeve or the cuff?

The cuff is definitely on the snug side, but were this to be the other way (i.e. loose/baggy) it would be even more annoying as it would let the wind in and ride up. As for the sleeves, I'd like to think - as pretty much everyone would - that they've got a respectably sized set of forearms. For me they fitted perfectly, but (once-again) - were they to have been much larger they'd just blow around in the wind, create a sail and start flapping.

Guess it's always worth trying one on before you buy, fit is such a personal thing after all.

In reply to BnB:

Admit it, you're Popeye!

(No problems with the forearm for me either, and that's the only place I have any muscle).

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKC:
I meant the forearm and cuff really. Much as I'd like to see myself as Popeye, it just isn't the case.

Perhaps it's just a question of expectation. I don't feel a shell garment should be tight anywhere, needing as it does to accommodate layers beneath. I'm also sensitive to overheating and restrictive clothing as I run very warm. I tried the Squall and the Arcteryx Psiphon side by side at Joe Brown's in Llanberis and the fit was chalk and cheese. The Squall fitted my arms like a mid layer, in fact like a shiny Eclipse, the Psiphon like a shell.

By way of balance, I'd criticise the Psiphon for lacking warmth in chilly, windy conditions, possibly precisely because of the looseness of the sleeves, but I see it more as a breathable wind-shirt than a full on shell, like a Rab Boreas, at which it performs well.

In reply to UKC Gear:

I got it last weekend and had a try the same day.

It's fairly similar to Rab Boreas (which is, to its price, superior!), but as computing scientists say, "on steroids". The offset zipper is definitely a good thing to have (especially if you have a hard shell with asymmetric zip, like Montane Event Aero Pullover). It's probably a little bit more windproof than Boreas and has slightly better fit (I look skinnier with ME Squall on!) with very good arm/cuff design (Boreas is a little bit flappy). Also, it is somewhat shower-resistant and beads the water off (so far!). Meanwhile, Boreas just soaks all the water as it was a sponge.

I had it on for two straight days on and didn't take it off. It's breathable to keep it on while working out and keeps the warmth in and wind out if it gets chillier.

It costs two times more than Rab Boreas, but it's nearly twice better, too. With brighter colors, that was a good purchase!

In reply to PPP:

All useful info, thanks, as have been thinking about one of these, but been wondering whether to get this one or a slightly burlier ME softshell (Frontier) so I can use it year round, and think I might go for the heavier one as this one seems quite light weight.

In reply to galpinos:



No use hiding my guns. Who's for a scrap?

In reply to UKC Gear:

How does this compare to the Rab VR Lite jacket, which is my current "Most useful softshell", but now wearing thin.

In reply to JayPee630:

I think Squall might be okay(ish) for winter. It really depends on what you are doing, I suppose. I had some great walking days with a medium weight merino wool top and ME Morpheus on the top and didn't even feel cold at all, though it was windy and I had to stop to wait for other people.

Boreas and Squall definitely have a different fit, so try them both before buying. They are both hardly softshells as they are really thin. I would say that they are like second base layers. You can keep them on all day no matter what the weather, but they might not be sufficient for worse days.

In reply to PPP:

I quite like thinner non-membrane hooded softshells, and as you say often use them on top of a thicker base layer and then add something else (thin synthetic) on top if it gets a bit chilly. So yeah more a second layer that can deal with a certain amount of weather.

In reply to JayPee630:


Yeah, I think the article has it wrong - I wouldn't see the Squall as an Alpine jacket - it seems to me to be a pure rock climbing jacket - which is what ME recommend it for I believe. For windy days with occasional rain at the crag it's pretty much ideal. The slim fit and thin material mean there's nothing flapping around or getting in the way while climbing (except the flap when the zip is partly open due to the diagonal design).

In reply to BarrySW19:

This is the exact sort of jacket that I climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Tre Cime wearing, so I'd argue case for it's Alpine application. That said, it's not like the Frontier wouldn't work - that too would be very, very good - and you could get away with wearing less layers underneath it too. Swings and roundabouts I guess: weight vs. warmth vs. breathability...

In reply to UKC Gear:

Any idea how would this jacket compare to BD Alpine Start Hoody?
Both seem to be very similar stretch woven softshell with basic weather protection.
BD jacket is a tiny bit lighter (and also folds into the chest pocket), but has woefully short sleeves.

In reply to UKC Gear:

At the risk of harping on (like in a recent softshell thread) how windproof is the Squall? Does it compare to pertex or is the breathability linked to the air permeability?

In reply to UKC Gear:

My previous favourite softshell was a Rab VR lite alpine, which I still really like, apart from the fact it doesn't have a helmet compatible hood...and the hood doesn't work as an under helmet type either.

I bought the squall, which ticks all the boxes, and is exactly what I am after. I think it's great. Apart from the annoyingly tight sleeves. Not a problem at all whilst walking as arms are straight, but when wearing it on a sport route with arms moving between straight and full lock under load, it was tight enough to leave red marks in the creases of my elbows. (With only a t-shirt underneath).

It won't stop me wearing it, but it's the only problem i have with an otherwise really nice jacket.

In reply to MattJ753:
My VR lite alpine is also my favorite jacket but it's starting to fall apart after a long service. Trying to choose between another VR lite or a Squall.

How does the Squall compare on the sweat moving / warmth fronts? I find the VR lite just the right level or warmth and it seems to get rid of sweat very well but i'd agree with you on the hood.

In reply to aldo56:

Squall is probably more versatile as you can add or take away layers underneath to make your combo as warm or as cool as you like, whereas the VR is always gonna be pretty warm even with nothing else. Squall by itself is as thin as a softshell gets.

For the alps this year i'd happily use either, but probably favour the squall due to the decent hood. When you're on a windy ridgeline and you can't use the hood on your jacket (VR) you realise its a pretty big design flaw.

In reply to MattJ753:

Thanks for the feedback, I might need to try one on now....