UKH

Ok, bit of a stupid question as I know there are many possible answers. I am currently doing my own research at the same time but would be interested to tap into the vast experience of the UKC community.

My climbing partner and I are planning on heading to the Alps end of July – early August for a few weeks. But we have no idea where to go or what to do. We went out in 2012 and stayed in Chamonix; we did a few easy routes unguided in the le tour area and also did Mont Blanc via the easiest Gouter route.

This year we are a bit older, less fit and less prepared. Initial “grand” aspirations of the Matterhorn, Mittellegi ridge etc… have been hammered back down to reality to the point where we now do not know what to do or even where to go. Essentially we are still novices with a little bit of experience.

What I am really after is some inspiration of which areas we should be looking at going to. An area with some easyish (max 6a) long rock routes, some good valley craging and some interesting (easy) mountain routes. Don’t really fancy Chamonix again as don’t want to be waiting round for the weather and the high stuff may be a bit serious for us. Would appreciate a list of possible bases that I can look into myself, my main problem is other than Chamonix I don’t know the names of other good regions a few beginners could head out to and find some fun stuff to do. Any guide book recommendations would also be useful.

We are not restricted to France, we will be driving over and are prepared to move about a bit.

Thanks in advance for sharing your experience from your early years in the Alps.

In reply to sjbrook:

Saas Fee? The Nadelhorn NE ridge is awesome (it is quite knackering mind, and the last little rock bit can be spicy), as is the Weissmies traverse.

In reply to sjbrook:

Saas fee would be a good option. For the past few years the lifts have been free if you are staying in the valley (inclued in the ~4CHF visitor tax)

Long multi pitch routes up the Jegihorn, good mountain routes up to AD include Weissmies Traverse (PD), Strahlhorn (PD-), Nadelhorn (PD), Lagginhorn Traverse (AD). I have a number of blog posts on these (http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/alpine-climbs/ )

In reply to sjbrook:

Ecrins? Loadsa single and multi pitch options within half an hour of Ailfroid campsite, then a good selection of mountain routes (F-AD) from Glacier Blanc and Ecrins hut, eg. Roche Faurio, Montange des Agneux. No lifts, but the huts aren't very expensive. And the sunniest place in the Alps! Apparently.

In reply to sjbrook:
Thanks for the ideas so far guys.

Funny I was just reading about Saas Fee / Grund. It is not somewhere I had previously considered. alastairbegley you blog is very useful, thanks for the link.

kbow265 - I will look into the Ecrins, I have heard it mentioned in the past.

In reply to alastairbegley:

Alastair, on your trips have you found the weather in Chamonix to be the least reliable? We went for 2 weeks and did nothing in the mountains for a week due to high winds.

In reply to sjbrook:

+1 for Ailefroide/Ecrins.

Everything from bouldering to 4,000 metre snow plods, with the local speciality being multipitch granite slabs at mostly amenable grades. Nice campsite too.

In reply to sjbrook:

Yep, Aielfroide in the Ecrins get my vote. Contender for the nicest campsite in the world and a lifetime of rock and alpine from easy to sh*t scary to keep you entertained.

Saas Fee/Grund is also good but there's not as much rock climbing from the valley and Switzerland is expensive, even with the free lifts.

In reply to All:

Thanks everyone for your input. A plan has now been formulated and it will be Ailefroide in the Ecrins for all the reasons you state.

Thanks again.

Sam

In reply to pchaggar:


Mine too, immaculate place!

Read the article I wrote on the Bernese Oberland by clicking on my name and selecting it, we did some multi pitch rock from fiesch too. If you can afford the huts and campsites, the Oberland for hut to hutting is great.