UKH

Looking to get a set of offsets nuts as the DMM one I liberated from a route seems to be put in on almost every climb I do. I wondered if any had any thoughts on DMM vs. the new wildcounty ones. Obviously the wildcounty ones are ligher but only by about 30g. The DMM ones are much stronger 7kn vs. 12kn, I don't know whether this matters. My main concern with the superlights is that the side on which you will place them most of the time is hollow (unlike their normal rocks where it is the other way around). Seems to me that this would give a low surface area to rock contact just on the very outside of the nut, although the DMM ones are recessed they have a wider area of possible contact (DMM also say that this covering protects the wire). I'm not sure whether this is an actual problem or more of a psychological one.

In reply to sheelba:
Having climbed with dmm offsets for years, and recently the wild country ones, personally, I like the dmm ones better. They seem to seat better and go in more places (but maybe I'm just used to using them and have my eye in for dmm sized cracks however). The weight difference for me really doesn't matter and something about the open sides on the wild country ones doesn't seem to work as well as the solid shape.

In reply to sheelba:

I think they do a fundamentally different job. The DMM offsets are first out of the bag for rhyolite in Wales and the Lakes, where Wallnuts would get the nod on grit. The WC superlight offsets are, for me, a backup to either on any route, giving you a double rack with extra alternative placements (offset or standard) and for a healthy weight reduction.

My rack for grit is DMM Wallnuts 1-11 + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10
For rhyolite, DMM offsets (brass and alloy) + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10

So, to answer your question with a question, where do you climb? If predominantly grit, I'd go for the WC offsets, if the celtic fringes, DMM.

They are both bloody brilliant by the way.

In reply to sheelba:
I very easily find placements for HB/DMM offset nuts on gritstone.

I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them.

Apparently a lot of placements are a little bit Rock shaped due to that being the most commonly used nut (perhaps more so in the past than now), which may affect your choice, but DMM offsets go in places where standard Rocks wouldn't be secure.

In the end it probably depend on how you think when you look at the rock, as to which nut works best for you, but DMM offset to seem like they're more thoroughly designed as offset nuts than the WC ones, to me at least.

On the other hand you might keep finding WC offsets to fit just right in the places where a normal rock doesn't give you a nice feeling.

I'd buy/use a couple of each for a bit and see which suit you best before spending big money...

In reply to sheelba:

To actually vaguely answer your question I guess anything which is even just psychological can become real enough when you're climbing.

In reply to sheelba: I use both. I never regret having a variety on my rack and neither will you.

In reply to sheelba:
I use both the solid wildcountry offsets, as well as the DMM offsets, and they are both brilliant.

I owned the DMM nuts first, and I do find a lot more bomber placements for them than the superlights. But just how the DMM offsets fit where an awkward square cut nut would fit, the superlights sink in where a DMM offsets would be awkward.

If you cant decide between the two I would definitely go for the DMM offsets . Bcause if you are already questioning the strength of the superlights, you wont want to trust one when it is 2 meters below you!

In reply to dobby 200:

Agree with this, but for a different reasons.

Weight of WC's is noticeable, but will disappear on a rack. Strength is plenty to make it much more likely rock would blow. Hollow possibly make it have a better placement strength in some cases where a protrusion might cause a small localised (pivoting) point of contact rather than spreading it around the outside (more stable).

However, DMM's have the advantage of being offset in both placement positions giving you more offset options. Also they seem to sink slightly better (wider offset angle?).

I use full range sets of both (including the brass/superlights) and just size 1-3 normal nuts for small sinkers (which seem slightly less bomber on superlights).

In reply to sheelba:

Thanks for the useful advice guys, think we'll go with the DMM's