UKH

Hi all,
I know this is a common topic, but still appreciate any help.
Starting to feel like I need to move on from my basic feeling shoes onto something a bit more intermediate, especially for bouldering as I'm pushing v5.

I've got pretty normal feet (I think?) but my current shoes feel dead loose round the ankle, and slip off on heel hooks, and I struggle with precarious toe hooks (could this just be me though?)

Anyhow, I have the funds and the desire to upgrade from my unbearably smelly shoes, so I'm turning to you wonderful lot for advice. I know it's best to try a few pairs on and see what feels right, and that's my plan tomorrow morning, but I have a short list, that I would like some opinions on.

Also, advice on the lace or Velcro debate would be good.

Thanks in advance.

La sportiva - solution
5.10 - dragon
Scarpa - vapour vs
5.10 - high angle
La sportiva - muira

In reply to Tomtom:

Hi Tomtom,

just from the start, do you want shoes to do abit of everything or just bouldering?? If just bouldering you can't do better than the solutions, best heel on any shoe just be prepared for the break in pain!

Can't really comment on 5:10s as i've never really used them but personally I use the miura vs for everything and thinks it's a brilliant shoe. I do have quite broad feet at the front though!

Mate of mine just got the new vapour vs and they seem to suit him perfectly on sport and bouldering.

If you've got narrow ankles the evolv shaman might be worth looking at, quite a narrow shoe and people seem to love them! Maybe the la sportiva katana lace, another excellent shoe that appear to have gained in popularity recently.

I think in terms of rubber vibram will last a good amount of time, sportiva don't skimp when putting it on, Scarpa recently seem to have gone down the road of making the rubber on the toe thinner and thinner so won't last as long. as I say i can't comment on stealth or 5:10.

If you can get there go to banana fingers, they have every shoe by every brand so just try loads on!

In reply to Tomtom:

Miura Lace: best all round climbing shoe ever made? I'm on my fourth pair, love them. Testarossas are even better for limestone redpointing but more specialised.

They're quite narrow: if you have a broader forefoot Katana Laces are not dissimilar, a bit stiffer and have a wider fit.

Haven't tried any of the others nor do I feel any need to. Will be buying Miura Laces as my mainstay plus the odd pair of Testarossas for as long as LS keep making them.

In reply to Tomtom:

Big thanks for replies so far. My current shoes are fine for my sport grade, so probably looking for bouldering specifically, but if I find a good everything shoe, I might consider it and use the old stinky ones for back up!

Could the solution be a bit OTT for me and my grade, I'd feel I'm moving from a begginers shoe to an advance?

Sounds like I need to look at the muria for sure though.

Laces might help fit my chicken ankles better than Velcro maybe?

In reply to Tomtom:

Main thing I find with solutions (i'm very guilty of this myself) is when you see someone wearing them you immediately watch them expecting some masterclass in awesomness, if you can deliver on this buy those solutions! I slight side note, my mate thats got them has only had them since januray and is already through to the toe rand. Admitedly this is climbing outdoors 2-3 times a week. but hey ho, if you can afford them buy them.

I think the miura lace or velcro is worth a look, just a really really good shoe!! downsize as much as you can bear though as they do stretch,

P.s. if your shoes smell get some boot bananas and have lavender fresh

Hah. I may well have to disguise the solutions then, for the times when I can't top a v2 with an audience around!
I'll try both the miuras if they have them at my local wall, and solutions, and hopefully I'll have found something to invest in. I'm bouldering indoors twice a week, so should be ok, I'll use my old ones to get battered.
I got some boot bananas, but I think I was too late, so hopefully if I use them from new, I won't have shoes quite so bad.
Thanks for the reply bud

In reply to Tomtom:

I've got a pair of vapour V's, I've got quite wide feet and they fit well, I'm mainly a boulderer and they seem to be easily enough for my current needs, the only shortcoming is a lack of rubber on the top of the toe, which makes some toe-hooking uncomfortable.
I didn't stop me from buying a second pair of the outgoing model at a fantastic discount though.

In reply to Tomtom:

I love my Miura's - both laces and velcro. I've got a pair of Solutions too, but the Miura's are by far my go to shoe.

In reply to Tomtom:
I'd recommend Tenaya Oasi. They were used for the first onsight 9a ever, so I guess they are good enough for hard climbing, too.

I own them and I would definitely prefer them over Evolv Shaman (5.10 Dragons felt too painful and Scarpas do not fit my feet). They can also be worn as slippers, which means that you can adjust the tightness with two straps way much better than anything else I tried.

I am currently Tenaya convert as I have two pairs of Tenaya shoes (Oasi for sport/bouldering and Masai for trad). I had to replace 3 pairs of 5.10 Verdes in less than half a year as I managed to tear the material between two pull loops. I didn't like Evolv Shamans as the rubber did not last as long as I would have expected (and probably because Evolv customer support is rubbish).

Thanks for the further replies
I like the look of those tenayas but never seen them in a shop.

This morning I had a little try on of some options.
The dragons were really weird, though I wear an 8 for street shoes, I could even get a 10 to feel anywhere near right on my left foot, yet my right foot felt okish in a size 8.
Tried both the muiras, like them both, but undecided on preference.
Tried the solutions and I think I fell In love... Until I saw the price.
Gonna look online for some better prices, which might help me decide, but I'm deffo swaying towards the solutions. Even more after getting very annoyed with my current ones griefing me on some roof problems today.

Any one who owns both the muiras lend some advice on which ones which?

In reply to Tomtom:
For bouldering, I'd say the Solutions. (I'm on my 3rd pair, and manage to get them a half size smaller each time I buy!) Such a decent snug fit, and so aggressive for long-reach toe hooks or rock-overs.

I don't get on with 5.10s so can't comment on them but I also have a pair of Scarpa VS and have had (and continue to wear) Miuras, which are a superb all-round shoe. I also rate the Scarpas as a decent bouldering shoe, but for me they're just not as good or aggressive as the Solutions.

I'd really like to try a pair of Testarossas but haven't seen them anywhere local where I could try on a pair.

Edit: The Miura lace-ups are great although I've also had a couple of pairs of the velcro equivalent which are also very good but I can't get them as snug as the lace-ups.

Edit 2: Bergfreunde.de had the Solutions on sale very recently - I think it was for 105 euros, so you could try there.

In reply to Fraser:


I take the same size as Miura Laces if that helps.

In reply to AlanLittle:

It does indeed, thanks. I'm a 44 in Miuras but for some reason only a 43 in Solutions. Might take a punt in an online TR purchase.

In reply to Tomtom:

Tenayas are a good shoe, i have a pair. My main gripe is the 2 strap job. It's irritating, comes undone and will force you to buy other shoes (it did me) watch any video of Megos wearing them and I guarantee one of the straps will be flapping around