UKH

Anyone tried this?

Looking at the Matterhorn in September.
I feel I'd rather climb in my extremely comfortable and sticky Mescalitos, and strap on some articulated crampons near the top, or my other option is my Nepal Extremes, much less comfortable and clumsy on what is essentially a scramble.
I've put crampons on softer hiking boots in the past negotiating gullies etc.
The Matterhorns not exactly going to be front pointing is it?

Discuss.

Thanks
Fred

In reply to Fredt:

Used flexible 12 point crampons (straps) with my Mescalitos, without any problems.

My rule of thumb is that it takes about two grades off my ice climbing grade.

Conversely the Mescalito climb two grades better on rock than the B3 boots I have, so your suggestion would probably be my first choice as well, assuming you mean the Hornli. (Probably 90% rock in September)

Best to try the combo out somewhere first. A steep grass or clay slope convinced me they were staying on the boot.

In reply to Fredt:

Just found a copy (#77)of Summit magazine on my desk.

Article on the Matterhorn " in good conditions 75% of the route can be climbed without crampons, having a good flexible and lightweight B2 boot will make this section much easier "

my elcap/Mescalitos are fine with my old Charlet moser S12 french strap crampons.

In reply to Fredt:
I'm not familiar enough with the B1, B2 classification to determine if the Mescalitos are B1 or B2. Any thoughts?
I'm still torn between these and my Nepal Extremes.

And what is the likelihood of being able to waterproof the Mescalitos, could anything achieve this?

In reply to Fredt:


Polythene bags between your feet and your shoes when you reach snow?

In reply to Fredt:

So now I've decided its Mescalitos alone.
I have waterproofed them and waterproofed them and waterproofed them with Graingers white liquidy stuff.

But, I'm not confident. I'm now thinking of the cosmetic heresy of Nikwax on suede.

Anyone done this?