UKH

What are peoples opinions on using mixed specific picks for pure ice climbing, do ice picks make ice considerably easier or is there not much it it (specifically for BD Vipers, titans vs laser). Should i spank £80 on new picks for an upcoming trip which could be quite ice heavy?

In reply to ebdon:

Depends. If I climb harder (WI4+ ->), generally really featured ice, I have trouble usinf BD Fusion picks. The "steinpull" teeth on the top of the pick make removing the tool quite hard from time to time. Titans don't have these teeth, so that is not a problem.

So, if you compare Titan to Laser, the only difference is the pick thickness (Titan is slightly thicker) and also how the pick is sharpened. If you mimic the shape of Laser on your Titan, it works almost as well as a Laser on ice. The only problems you might face are on thin ice (wider pick -> breaks ice more) or when it's really cold (again, more ice breaking), these can be corrected by a huge amount by having a proper swing...

In reply to ebdon:

Obviously very axe dependent, some mixd picks change the angle as well which will make a big difference. I found a big difference changing to ice picks on grivel axes, so much easier both to place and extract. They look stronger than most mixed picks from other brands tbh and I know people who climb mixed on ice picks, depends how hard you're going to be torquing.

If I was you I'd buy ice picks, whatever your axes they'll make it easier to some degree and if you use a set of picks for both ice and mixed you'll wear them down twice as quick anyway because you'll blunt them on mixed and have to sharpen them again for ice. If you have a set for each you'll probably end up saving cash in the long run.

In reply to ebdon:

I think I similar question was asked couple years back, but the other way round, i.e. will ice picks do for mixed, and I think some top climber (Kenton Cool?) said he used iced picks for everything and never broke/twisted an ice pick on even very hard mixed.

Not climbed much in last few years, but defo felt mixed picks not as good on pure ice, so my vote is get them.

In reply to ebdon:

I never had a problem with the titan or fusion picks for ice, though I would certainly opt for laser picks on a brittle day. I do find the laser comes out much easier in dry ice. I also feel they make for much looser placements on the vipers and can slide out of placements (more so on hooks) on steep ice if you give a little too much of an outward pull. Sharp titan picks are no harder to place, are a bitch to remove and are very secure.

The lasers credentials as a mixed pick are very good, though mine are starting to show a slight bend. The worst thing with picks with teeth on the head is they prevent removal in deep placements and will shred your gloves when walking.

In reply to ebdon:
Thanks all - that’s some good advice i think i might save myself £80 and just sharpen up my Titan picks. As mentioned, it’s getting them out rather than in that i find the hard bit! but perhaps on big sketchy alpine routes that will be no bad thing.
Tom