UKH

I currently I have a set of BD Fusion 2's and they're a fantastic axe for mixed, but, I've been doing loads more pure ice this season and I find them very tiresome to climb with on very long ice routes. They seem to require much more effort to swing and struggle to bite into the ice at times, and thats with the ice pick fitted.

So I'm thinking about either replacing them or getting an ice specific tool. I've been considering either the Nomic or the Tech Machine as a replacement or a Cobra as an ice specific tool. I like the idea of the head weights in the nomic, but also like the feel of machines and the ability to fit a proper hammer for mixed. Too many choices!!

In reply to joe.91:

Hi, I have used the Apexes for a season and a half, and changed them for Nomics. I use them for ice and mixed, and they are better at both. Never really liked the Apexes, too heavy and not well balanced. I have also climbed with the Machines, and they are pretty similar to the Nomics, but the picks are better quality, if this is important for you. Notice, that they can fit a hammer only with a mix pick, that has quite more agressive angle than ice one. I have never climbed with Cobras, but many say they are the best pure ice axes. Quite expensive, and pretty ice specific, so I never really considered them, but as I understand this is what you are looking for, so maybe Cobras are the right option. Also very good in ice are the the Quantum Tech, probably similar to Cobra.

In reply to joe.91:

if you want to use leashes then the nomics are probably not the optimum tool

In reply to joe.91:

If you plan on keepin' them Fusion, then gettin' Cobras (or wait for next years new Viper) makes sence. Same pics and all.

If you are selling, the I'd get the Nomic. From pretty much all the tools I've tried, Nomic simply has such a natural swing and they are also good on mixed.

That said, I climb with Fusion 2s and I've been rather happy with 'em. Fusion Ice pics, not Lasers for them though.

In reply to HeMa:

Thanks for the replies, I'm swinging towards the Tech Machines as you can put a proper hammer on the back but still keep a nice wing for pure ice. But, not sure as they're a new tool and perhaps I should play it safe with a set of nomics. Does anybody know how the Nomic's compare to the Tech Machines on ice?

In reply to joe.91:

I've got a pair of nomics available that I used for 4 days in Cogne a few weeks ago. Having purchased these purley for this ice trip I'm not likely to use them again and will stick with my matrix lights for general mountaineering routes. I also have the adze and hammer available, they haven't been used.The axes are in great condition, I taped up the shafts before the trip so they should look brand new underneath. I've not offered them up for sale anywhere yet and was thinking of waiting until the start of next season but I am open to sensible offers.

In reply to joe.91:
Tech Machine or Cassin X- Dream

In reply to joe.91:

Grivel Quantum Tech are the best outright ice tools I've used.

In reply to iksander:


Which is as helpful as stating that shoes XXx are the best shoes I've used. Unless you happen to be me.

In reply to iksander:

I've heard good things about the X-Dream, but a bit of an unknown quantity so I'd prefer to stick to something I know! I have a pair of the Matrix Lights which have the same pick as the Quantum's but the pick is such a faff to change that I won't be going back to a X-Monster style head tool. That and they're replacing them next season anyway.

In reply to joe.91:


From what I hear this is true, but they're probably the best - and toughest - picks on the market. I've had Matrix Techs, Monsters and Quantum Techs and never had to change the picks on any of them. Maybe I'll change my mind eventually when I need to get the angle grinder out!

In reply to joe.91:
Having used the x-dreams on around 20 routes between III and VII this season as well as dry tooling up to D10 I can't fault them. Some observations:

Narrower shaft and head than nomics, fusions or tech machines which can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on width of cracks. However, I've fully weighted and mantled on the shaft with the head stuck horizontal in a crack with no ill effects so pretty bomber.

The huge (fully adjustable) handles are a godsend when it comes to staving off the pump and I haven't even tried the dry position yet which is supposedly even better for this.

About an inch more reach than the nomics which for those with short arms is good, especially so when dry tooling.

Replacement picks are cheaper than petzl, grivel and bd as far as I'm aware.

Only downsides are the adjustable 3rd grip rest is pretty pointless as the axe will almost always blow if you choke up that far but you can remove it.

Also, the sandpaper-like grip tape that's comes with it is great for trashing gloves. But, again z you can remove it.

Have only met one other person with them but I think they should be considered amongst the obvious choices from the more popular brands. Having played with nomics and fusions, I prefer the x-dreams.