In reply to 3leggeddog:
In proper condition grade V is a punter's grade: has been for at least the last 10 years. But what does it mean to be a "punter's grade"? If the route is good, the company excellent and a great day is had, who gives a monkey's if it is a punter's grade?
Now I consider myself a punter, albeit dedicated and passionate about winter climbing. I have aspirations and limitations (of time and energy). I am not very fit- compared to the machines operating at grade VIII and above. I climb at around VII regularly.
The kit makes a huge difference, but only insofar as you're ready to try and fail.
Climbing first leashless (with DMM rebels) and then with Nomics has been a revelation- I need all the help I can get because I'm not good at training and a fairly unfit climber.
How many full on Grade VIII have been climbed with good tools likes BD vipers and the likes?
We'll never know what Robin Smith could have climbed if he had front monopoints, light gear, ice screws and ergos. They were hard men for sure but were the product of their age: they may never have imagined the type of climbing which is at the cutting age of Scottish winter exploration in 2014!
No dilly-dallying. Want to do classics? Do them! Want an easier time? Do them with super technical and light modern kit! Want to have a laugh and a work out? Use kit from the 60s, 70s...whatever!
I hardly ever do new routing: it's not something I know much about. I imagine that the mental fortitude and physical toughness necessary to push into the unknown- whether it be V in the 60s, VI/VII in the 70&80s, and now X- is only going to be the realm of a few very motivated and single minded individuals. I ain't of that kilter, I repeat routes I know will be good, stretch me and will be lasting memories! It's good to show your mates you've still got it but that is not the main motivating factor. Personally, it's a battle against my utter lazy and self-pitying self.