UKH

leashless axes - not new idea

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 sdawson1 16 Feb 2015
Just watched a video on Youtube of Eric Jones (Tremadog fame) doing North Face of the Eiger Solo from 1981 (still a UK first) and he was using his axes leashless and with cord back to his harness. How radical was he !!!!
 Nick_Scots 16 Feb 2015
Cool, proves you don't need Stubai Hornets either.....
 Climbingspike 16 Feb 2015
In reply to Scott_vzr: the axes he has are Clog Hawks, basic but well up to the job and no need to take out a mortgage for a pair.

In reply to sdawson1:

Eric is a hero.
OP sdawson1 17 Feb 2015
In reply to sdawson1:
He's definitely my Hero ! The Welsh equivalent of the Bold & Brass Sean Connery !

Still the only British solo ascent of the Eiger in his 40's....come to think of it I'm in my 40's but nowehere near teh amount of balls to do that !
Post edited at 12:31
 Pete Pozman 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Scott_vzr:

What's that about Stubai Hornets?
 Only a hill 17 Feb 2015
In reply to sdawson1:

Actually, using ice axes leashless goes back to the 18th century. Leashes are a comparatively modern invention.
 MG 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Only a hill:

Cutting step type axes are not really the same tool as swinging above your head axes though, are they?
 rif 17 Feb 2015
In reply to MG:

Well yes, in that they had to be swung above the head on grade IV or V ice, while clinging on to the previous hold with your other hand or daggering with an ice piton.
 Only a hill 17 Feb 2015
In reply to MG:

I actually don't think there's that much difference. Fundamentally, when climbing very steep ice it's a bad idea to drop your tool, regardless of what method you're using to climb. And there's evidence of very steep ice climbing on seracs etc. as early as the 1830s using leashless cutting axes. Fast-forward to the 1960s and you have Grade IV - V routes being stepcut leashless.
 Nick_Scots 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Climbingspike:
Don't know what axes they were but tongue in cheek about Suptubai Hornets ......
Post edited at 19:47
 Climbingspike 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Scott_vzr:
Yeh, guessed that. Still I know what he's using, I made them when I worked at clog.
 Paul249 17 Feb 2015
I looked it up just for a nosey and ended up watching the whole thing!

youtube.com/watch?v=5d9avT0R-qk&

What an incredible effort and achievement, really understated guy as well. Can't believe I've never heard of him before.
 Trevers 18 Feb 2015
In reply to Paul249:

> I looked it up just for a nosey and ended up watching the whole thing!

> youtube.com/watch?v=5d9avT0R-qk&

> What an incredible effort and achievement, really understated guy as well. Can't believe I've never heard of him before.

You can go to his cafe at Tremadog and have him serve you tea and toasties And yeah, he comes across as an all-around top bloke.
 Pbob 18 Feb 2015
In reply to sdawson1:

Nah. I started out using ancient wooden handled things and nearly came a cropper the first time I had to brake in anger and the thing slid through my iced up dachsteins. Only the leash saved me from a very rapid unplanned decent. I learned two lessons. 1. Bought my own axe with rubberised grip 2. Always use a leash.
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