UKH

Last year I bought some new winter boots but found that my worn crampons with now quite small spikes did not feel very secure with them. I just bought some new crampons however because of the narrow front to the boot the boot comes over quite a bit of the crampon (photo below). With this be an issue, should I have got a C3 binding instead? or is it fine. It seems to me that in ice or neve the boot end may end up restricting how far the crampons can bite into the ice. I intend on using them for leading up to IV and seconding a bit harder stuff.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153103792459136&set=pb.696149...

In reply to sheelba:

I have a similar issue with my boot/crampon combo. I found that by putting a few wraps of insulation tape around the area where the boot contacts the crampon and adjusting the extender bar appropriately I was able sort the problem (although I wasn't sure how much of a problem it was in the first place).

In reply to sheelba:

What boot is it, my Scrapa Freney fit similar, never found it an issue.....

In reply to sheelba:

The front points don't stick out enough for my liking. I would be tempted to bend in the front posts (the bits the yellow plastic attach to) to prevent the boot moving so far forward. Probably not great for a warranty on new crampons though!

In reply to sheelba:
I've got g12s fitted to phantoms with a simliar clearance at the front, I just add an extra grade on to compensate so I'm actually climbing harder now.

Joking aside, I think that the issue is more that on steep ice the front points wont penetrate enough to allow the secondary points to come into contact and take the weight off your calfs. I think that's a bigger problem than it sheering out, on crud your boot will go in, on hard ice there'll be plenty sticking in to hold, on mixed its fine.

The trouble with bending the posts in is that as you climb you'll effectively be bashing them back outwards every time you kick forwards. So if you set your crampon to your boot after adjusting the posts and then they bend back while you're climbing then your crampon will no longer fit at all well.

You could have gone with the front bail and that would have reduced (eliminated?) the problem but then maybe the crampon isn't a particularly good fit for the boot anyway. Search for the cold thistle blog and look for posts about crampon fit, he does appear to know his stuff.

In reply to sheelba:

I had a similar issue when I upgraded my Scarpa Mantas for La Sportiva Nepal Extremes. I hardly had any front points with the G12's.

I upgraded to the Petzl Lynx, which are infinitely better, have adjustable and replaceable front points. They can also convert to mono and have the option of front basket or bail as standard.

If you do decide to get another set, my advise would be to try them on the boot before you part with your cash.

Craig.

In reply to NottsRich:


I'd have been tempted to go to a shop with my boots a get crampons that actually work with my boots.

In reply to sheelba:

Difficult to see clearly due to the shadow, but they look as if they are ok...just
You would find it much easier with a more technical crampon or mono...always best to take boot when buying a crampon

In reply to sheelba:

Had the same problem. Scarpa Jorasse's and G12s. Ended up converting the crampons. Removed the plastic toe piece and fitted wire bails instead. Came as a kit. Think I got it from Needle sports. Problem sorted!

In reply to sheelba:

Asothers have said....front points just about OK, secondary points set too far back for my liking, but more than manageable for those grades. Ideally, the secondaries should sit slightly back from the toe of the boot, so when you drop your heel, they rest against the ice (providing stability and reducing calf pump). Ring up the shop and see if you can exchange before theyre scractched.

Changing the basket to a toe bail shouldnt make much, if any difference.....it is the distance between the upright posts/width of front of boot, that limit front point protrustion.

In reply to sheelba:



As winter climbing in the grades you mention is pretty much a head game I believe that having confidence in your kit is an integral part of being safe and successful. Well it is for me.

Unfortunately there is now some doubt whether your kit is up to the task or not? I would possibly look to get them swapped for some that gives you confidence if that's possible.

Sorry if not the advice you want to hear and you can by all means chose to ignore it as i'm a pure punter.

Have a flick through these posts here for others comments

http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=601321&v=1#x7913825

cheers

Gaz

In reply to sheelba:

Thanks guy's I did try them on in a different shop then ordered them online with V12, obviously wasn't paying enough intention. They are brand new so will swap them for some G14's I think.

In reply to sheelba:

Just realised they won't take them back I'm a complete f***ing moron

In reply to sheelba:

If you can't return them I wouldn't worry too much. My wee Trango boots look like that with my G12s and I've climbed vertical ice in them comfortably. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MW_21GzmYL8/VLum0IlJHBI/AAAAAAAAHeI/1ATEfoAF-HQ/s... All those things people have suggested above are well worth trying, just padding out the metal "pillars" that the plastic attaches to by wrapping something like duck tape round and round them could well be enough to hold the boot a few mms further back and give you some more front points visible.

See this blog post too http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.co.uk/2009/01/ice-is-nice-but-knocking-cr...

In reply to sheelba:

I realised that I have the same boots as you and only just replaced my airtechs for G12 newmatics. I have just popped into a local climbing shop to test the Scarpas in the G12 crampomatics and there seems to be very little difference in front point clearance between the two models (newmatics/crampomatics).

Last night I put electrical tape around the front pillars and it made a difference on the front point clearance. Whether that will make a difference in real life I have no idea. I will let you know how they perform after this weekend.

Ade

In reply to sheelba:

Buy a c3 crampon, the binding at the front is usually adjustable so you will be able to maximize your front point for climbing

In reply to nation1:

I did manage to swap them and that's exactly what I've bought

In reply to sheelba:

After sending them back to the good people at V12, receiving some G14's in return, failing to work out how to move the front bail backwards...

I found a article by Will Gadd on why it's important to do so (but not how you do it)
http://willgadd.com/a-simple-fix-frontpoints-and-tibialis-anterior/
and utterly unhelpful Petz method
file:///C:/Users/Sheelba/Downloads/technical-notice-LYNX.pdf

...I phoned V 12 they had no idea, then Grivel and they confirmed my suspicions that it was simply a matter of brute force. An hour later of removing the front points, grunting, hammering and swearing I finally ended up with these:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153118512059136&set=pb.696149...

The front points can be elongated well. Thanks for all your advice and now I just need to actually get out climbing!

In reply to sheelba:

Sheelba, your new crampon fit as shown is hardly any better than it was at first, for ice or neve! You need to move the toe bail back a further hole or two so that the front and secondary points protrude further.

In reply to sheelba:
I posted this last year it takes a bit of work one of the crampons was easier to drill than the other, converting grivel G12 newmatic to crampomatic
http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=540291&v=1#x7239350
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yypb3dljqsqa5ql/IHuNRo7hrY