UKH

One lesson from last year's climbing was that my walking shoes don't really cut it for days out on the crag so I'm looking at maybe getting some approach shoes for this year. I'm interested in advice on choosing and using these. Any info on how good they tend to be for climbing (is up to S 4a difficulty a reasonable expectation if I climb around 6b indoors?). And how are they for walking - are they comfortable enough for a few miles at a time? What is a good size to get - given my climbing shoes are usually a full size below my walking shoes?

Finally, any brand/model recommendations?

Thanks, Barry.

In reply to BarrySW19:
Lots of questions, answers in the same order:

Perfectly good for S 4a climbing

Perfectly good for walking as long as they fit

Go for your normal shoe size, +/- size changes for manufacturer differences

Go for the brand that fits!!

...that's not an arsey comment, but no one can advise you on brands as they may not fit you and your feet. It is like buying any footwear for any activity. There is huge variety between manufacturers in foot shape, foot width, toe box volume, comfort, foot height, sizing etc. The only way is to go into a shop and try a whole load on. Standard advice from anyone on here saying "I love my NASA Rocketpowered Ascent Gravitydefying Magigrips and soloed the North Face of the Eiger in them with an elephant on my back so don't try anything else, just buy these" mean absolutely nothing to you as they may be the wrong shape for you and your feet.

In reply to BarrySW19:

I've had various - Keen, Meindl, Merrell, Salomon. I always go for goretex lined as I tend to use them for walking and always wear rockboots even for easy climbs - not doing feels like using the wrong tool for the job. The Keens were the best for keeping water out. Comfortwise they've all been good. Five-ten guides are meant to be OK on rock.

In reply to BarrySW19:

One thing to be aware of is that some approach shoes are more geared to US/European conditions than rainy old UK - so the soles are designed with not much tread, to be grippy on rock but not so good on wet grass. So, depending on where you think you'll use them, something like the 5.10 Guide Tennie might be less (or more) appropriate than the same manufacturer's Camp Four, which has a much chunkier tread pattern. Horses for courses.

In reply to BarrySW19:
What Ripper said. I've gone over badly a couple of times in approach shoes Boulder Xs and the similar Scarpa model on wet grass, so if you think you'll be spending lots of time on this ground I'd skip the approach shoes and go for trail/fell running shoes instead. Boulder Xs were great for all the scrambling and climbing on the Skye Ridge though, for example.

In reply to BarrySW19:

Comfy (for a long walk in), good on mixed descents (good rubber for rock, decent tread for grass). Not bothered about climbing in them. Just got some Camp 4's.

In reply to BarrySW19:

Approach shoes are great for climbing in, size them as you would a walking boot I've had 5.10 camp four,scarpa crux and boreal's the camp four had a more walking boot feel to them but with a sticky rubber sole,good for climbing in not so perfect rock conditions too

In reply to BarrySW19:
Hi Barry, I find fell running shoes (Inov8 mudclaws are what I have) good shoes for lightweight approach to mountain crags where you will be crossing wet grass and mud. They are incredibly grippy on these surfaces. Then change into rock shoes at the crag.

I also have a pair of 5.10 Guide tennies which are great, a really strong edge and super grippy rubber sole. I have climbed V diff in these no problems (but I am not that talented) they can easily handle more. There is a video of Tom Randall climbing e4 in these I think! Also good shoes for long scrambles like the Cuillin ridge.

Also got a pair of Scarpa Crux shoes which I find incredibly comfortable. Great for dossing around in.

And yeah I have more shoes than my wife.

In reply to BarrySW19:

Whatever footwear you are climbing in, it is inconsiderate to start a route with gritty soles, especially on something like limestone (just have a go on on the 'easy' routes at the Cuttings on Portland to see why) a small mat is enough to clean the bottom of smooth soled rock boots, but anything with a tread will pick up mud, and then grit and sand will stick to that, especially if you have walked to the crag in them, they will be much harder to get properly clean and the climbs will get even more polished.

In reply to BarrySW19:

There are so many on the market to pick from. Ranging from 5.10 Daesents, which are more like rock shoes. I use these for multipitch upto HVS, so they are basically rock shoes that you can approach in. But they offer next to no support for long walk-ins or against twisting your ankles. On the other end are the 5.10 camp four/ Sportiva boulder X. Great for some easy climbing, but they feel quite clunky. Great for the walk-ins though.

Somewhere in the middle are the likes of Scarpa Crux and 5.10 Guide tennies.

My go to shoes are some Salewa Firetails gtx. As stated before, most of these are aimed at euro or american approaches, where they're mostly rocky and dry. I'd definitely opt for GTX for UK. The comfort on wet days certainly outweighs the discomfort on hot sunny days (whenever they are in UK...).
I've not climbed much in the Salewas, but i'm sure they'd certainly be fine on the easier end, possibly upto S-HS. But the extra rand on the end of the toe makes them not particularly sensitive for pointing your toes. Edging and smears are fine though

At the end of the day, it's the shoe that fits, and is the right price! Some are hugely expensive. I'd strongly recommend ones with gore-tex and some tread if you're getting just one pair to do it all.