UKH

I might be up in Glencoe next weekend, and this is a mountain that embarrassingly I've never had a day out on before.

Would anyone be able to suggest a plan for a day out, taking in the summit, via a couple of routes (winter climbing up to grade II only).

Thanks

In reply to Trevers:
Check the avalanche forecast. If that gives you the all clear, decide whether you want to climb gullies or ridges.

If gullies, there are at least two lovely ones in Coire nan Lochan, and another two belters in Coire nam Beith. All II or I grades.

If ridges, the main ridge of the whole mountain (including Stob Coire Sgreamhach) is not to be sniffed at. There's also An Lairig on the eastern side. Or if you like queuing, check out Dorsal Arete

Bidean is a playground for the soloer, if you're careful and canny.

In reply to Trevers:

Me and my mate enjoyed a great day on Bidean a couple of weeks ago which would suit your requirements. Walk up the Larig Eilde, then a cracking wee grade II mountaineering ascent of the Sron na Lairig ridge. We then continued over Stob Coire Sgreamhach, Bidean nam Bian and SCNL before dropping down the later peak's NE ridge. An alternative approach to Sgreamhach can be made along the appropriately named Beinn Fhada (Long mountain) ridge, then continue along the clockwise circuit mentioned above.

The problem is with time and daylight so would need to be an early start if you want to fit in a winter route as well as Bidean summit on top of it.

Personally I like NC Gully (I/II) then up to the summit of SCNL and then onto Bidean maybe by Hourglass gully? or just the ridge itself. Personally I think NC Gully is more fun and atmospheric than say Dorsal Arete.

In reply to Trevers:

Some good suggestions here. I'd advise you to be careful if you go to Stob Coire nam Beith — with a couple of exceptions, the routes are longer and more difficult to find than you might expect, and come into condition far less frequently than either Coire nan Lochan or Bidean main cliff. I once spent half a day faffing around trying to find No.4 Buttress in thick mist.

Bidean main cliff is a great place to go if the easy gullies are in condition. Central Gully and Hourglass Gully are, IMO, better than any of the I/II gullies in Coire nan Lochan and will probably be deserted.

In reply to Only a hill:

I was in Stob Coire nam Beith on Thursday had the place to myself
Ice everywhere however tons of fresh powder made it hard to get near
Climbs , did a few pit tests all failed. Needs a good thaw and Refreeze and it'll be dynamite can't believe ive never spent much time up here bar descending from no6 Gully

In reply to Only a hill:


Haven't done Hourglass Gully, but I'd concur on both counts (quality and lack of traffic) re. Central Gully. It's lovely!

http://www.petestack.com/blog/glen-coe-gully-fest.html

In reply to Joak:

that wasn't you behind me was it? I had a green jacket on. Soloing the route

In reply to petestack:
Nice writeup and photos. Central Gully is probably my favourite I/II gully in Glen Coe. Such atmosphere in the big cleft at the bottom beside Collie's Pinnacle!

In reply to tallpaulselfridge:

Afraid not, no one in front of us, we enjoyed perfect unblemished virgin snow underfoot. Saw only one other pair behind us. This whole side of the hill was very quiet

In reply to Trevers:

Bidean is a big day in winter and all the descents are steep, avalanche-prone or both. I'm sure you know this, but no harm in flagging it again.