UKH

Does anyone know the Working Load Limit of the pulley in a DMM Revolver carabiner? I know the biner is ok upto 24kN, and the pulley doesn't break until 11kN, but there's another number for the load that will (temporarily) stop the wheel turning, and I've lost the manual.

Thanks in advance

In reply to Rapsling:
The video says it functions as a pulley until 11.5kn.

In reply to Skipinder:

So does this mean it can be used to haul loads of 1.15 tonnes then? Not going to get anywhere near that tbh, it just sounds like I'd misunderstood as that does seem very high for such a small pulley.

(Bit of context: just want to haul 5kg. 2:1 pulley or 'gun tackle' setup, one pulley on the bag, another up at the hauling end. Just trying to work out if I can get away with using the Revolvers, which I would have on me anyway, or if I need to pack in a couple of simple 2.5cm pulleys as well.)

In reply to Rapsling:

In the video they recommend it for rescuing so I guess should be ok with 5kg. The video is here http://dmmclimbing.com/products/locking-revolver/

In reply to Skipinder:

Thank you

Now I come to think of it, replacing 2 quickdraw wiregates with the Revolvers has shaved over a quarter of a kilo off a rack that used to include 2 Petzl 2.5cm pulleys and two dedicated oval biners. Nice. It's kind of a nuisance that most pulleys marketed specifically to climbers don't play nicely with ordinary D-shaped carabiners.

In reply to Rapsling:


I think it's less than that, since the force on the pulley is higher than the load. With no mechanical advantage it's at least double (the load is pulling down and you're pulling down on it to lift the load); it's too early in the morning for me to think if that goes up in mechanical advantage systems.

But 35kg should be fine!

In reply to Rapsling:

Now I'm curious. Unless you mostly climb big walls and this is some kind of ultra-minimalist hauling rig, why would pulleys be part of a normal rack? I've never carried one on a route in my life, and never felt I was missing out on anything as a result.

(Never even owned one, in fact, until I bought a Micro Traxion for rope soloing last year to replace my decades-old Shunt)

In reply to AlanLittle:
Really started off as more of a mountaineer than a climber I guess. Ideal expedition would be one involving several days worth of hiking and wild camping, with the odd wall in the way that me and the rucksack full of camping stuff have got to get over. Ben Nevis and Snowdonia are both great for this if you plan an interesting route, for example.

But yeah, pulleys necessary, but the rack does need to be ultra-minimalist as you say. DMM Revolvers score bonus points for being multifunctional equipment and keeping the weight down. Now if only I could figure out a way to light a fire with them!

In reply to Rapsling:


That would depend where you used it in the set-up but in reality it would be a very poor choice wherever you put it with that sort of load applied.


Try it. The 1" wheels will probably give you lower friction but do you really need 2:1 advantage to lift 35kg, personally I'd be keen to avoid the additional losses if you're moving it any significant distance.

jk

In reply to jkarran:


Sorry, what do you mean by additional losses? Are you talking about the extra friction from using 2 pulleys vs 1?

In reply to Rapsling:


Yes and one vs none.

Each time you fold the rope around a pulley (or worse, a krab) you're adding frictional losses, with a straight 1:1 system you're not wasting energy in the pulley/rope. If you absolutely need the mechanical advantage to get something heavy moving then obviously it's worth doing and if it's worth doing it's worth doing properly.

Only you know what you have planned at this stage.
jk