help welding a solid fuel stove

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Sharp 07 Jan 2015

I'm considering doing a bodged repair on my multi-fuel stove and wondered if there were any welders on here who could offer some advice. One of the screws holding the bracket that holds the glass in place on the door of my stove has dethreaded and meant the glass has fallen out and smashed in two. It's long past it's sell by date and due to be replaced next year so I'm reluctant to repair it properly (new door £205, new glass £80) and wondered what the options were for welding it up. I've done basic welding (with a cheapo arc welder) since I was a wee lad but I'm happy to admit to being an amateur and wondered if anyone had any suggestions given that I'm vaguely aware that there are issues with welding cast iron, not sure if that's exacerbated by the continual heating and cooling down that it will have to endure for the rest of the winter. (although I don't think the stove door gets above 150C)

The two options I was thinking about was buying new glass and welding the bracket in place or removing the broken glass and welding a steel plate over in place of the glass, although I can't find any steel lying around that would be suitable and I'm not sure what I should be looking for in terms of a metal if I were to buy it. The other option I'd thought about was just trying to drill the buggered screw hole through and bolting the bracket back in place - although the door is pretty thick and I don't have a decent slow speed drill, so would probably go through a lot of drill bits!

Any advice appreciated

This is what the door looks like normally: www.tinyurl.com/pgxbd9s

This is the state the broken one is in: www.tinyurl.com/k6r9xdr
Post edited at 13:57
 deepsoup 07 Jan 2015
In reply to Sharp:
Another possible option: Drill the hole out slightly wider (but not necessarily any deeper), and re-tap for a slightly larger screw.
Lusk 07 Jan 2015
In reply to Sharp:

I'd get a few cobalt bits, bottle of cutting fluid and drill it out myself.
You must know someone with a suitable drill?
 jimtitt 07 Jan 2015
In reply to Sharp:

My workshop stove had similar problems (a new door glass isn´t available). Just use a piece of sheet steel maybe 1mm thick, it will expand and contract differently to the door so treat it as if it was a bit of glass with a gasket and weld brackets on to hold it, ordinary rods work but multi-purpose/stainless rods work better. Easiest is go down to your local welder/blacksmith type and get him to do it all.
 gethin_allen 07 Jan 2015
In reply to Sharp:

From my very limited welding experience it's quite hard to weld cast iron stoves and although I can do some sort of job on proper metal the cast stuff mostly failed the hammer test (ie, hit it and if it survives it's good)

If it's just a thread that's gone surely the easy option is to drill out and re-tap it as the next size up so you can fit a larger bolt in it.

Regarding finding metal, try finding your local stockists/fabricators and asking to have a rummage in the scrap bin.

If it's a small amount you want they'll likely just ask you to chuck a few coins in the charity/coffee pot.
 butteredfrog 07 Jan 2015
In reply to Lusk:
Cast iron is self lubricating and drills really easily a HSS drill bit will do fine, keep pulling the drill back to clear the swarf out of the hole.

You can get door glasses cut to size on the internet for a reasonable price, can't remember the name of the website, Google is your friend.

Cheers Adam
Post edited at 14:22
 jkarran 07 Jan 2015
In reply to Sharp:

Drill out the threads and tap for the next size up or Helecoil/ReCoil it back to the same size, that way you get the drill and tap and repair coil all in one box, all you need is a new screw and some oil for tapping. Or drill it through, fit a nut and bolt. A local machine shop, metal worker or garage will do it if you don't fancy it.

Ebay and google turns up stove glass for a fraction of the price you've been quoted.

Personally I wouldn't go near it with a welder but if you do then just tack the bracket in a couple of places. It's the wrong tool for the job though.

jk
OP Sharp 07 Jan 2015
In reply to all:
Thanks for everyones advice, I hadn't even thought to look at glass online and just phoned the local stove place - looks like ebay can sort replacement glass for under £20 so I think I'll go with that.

It sounds like the best option will be to drill it, I don't have a tap and die set unforutnately, I've looked at getting one before when I've come close to stripping threads on the car but they range from £10 to hundreds of pounds and I get confused with all the sizes so I'll probably just drill through it and bolt it, although I might have a look at that helicoil thing.

Thanks again

Ben
Post edited at 17:59
 Dax H 07 Jan 2015
In reply to Sharp:

Where do you live? If it's around the Leeds area I have a full set of taps from m3 to m20 and helicoils from m4 to m12. You would be welcome to use them.
OP Sharp 08 Jan 2015
In reply to Dax H:

Thanks for the offer, one upon a time I lived next to Huddersfield but up in Scotland now.

Ben
 krikoman 08 Jan 2015
In reply to Sharp:

It's probably cast iron, so will drill easily.

I'd drill through by some glass of ebay and refit.

Not sure helicoiling would cope with the heat / cold cycle when there isn't a good lump of metal around it.

A piece of sheet steel will see you through the winter, but you'll loose the lovely glow and the radiated heat, though it would be considerably cheaper

welding isn't really and option, you need special rods and a lot of skill, it usually still cracks so you have to grind and refill, nightmare and time consuming.

Good Luck

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...