Best Ice climbing venue for grades 2-4 on decent ice?

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 SGH Matt 06 Jan 2015
Hi all - hoping to gather some info-
Am off for 3 or 4 days in Feb and keen to get some decent ice climbing in. Have done some basic grade 2/3 in Wales/Scotland and want to get some guaranteed decent ice conditions. Thinking Alps and have heard a few bits about Cogne valley too. Any suggestions on where to go and how to make it not cost the earth!?

Cheers, Matt.
 payney1973 06 Jan 2015
In reply to SGH Matt:

Rjukan, fly to Oslo, use the bus to get there and stay in the old Skool hostel.
Eat pasta, don't go on the piss!!!
Ice climbing on your doorstep, in the lower grades.
 Mr. Lee 07 Jan 2015
In reply to SGH Matt:

Cogne has some great long WI3 routes. Not really much in the way of short pitches. Routes often need a walk-in up the valley. The belays are nearly always bolted so they are not that commiting. The valleys are high so usually ok conditions in Feb. It's more mountainous compared to say Rjukan so avalanche risks need to be considered. Not much in the way of really cheap accommodation though. Although the Milan flights and Italy hire car prices are usually cheap.

Rjukan's also got plenty of easier graded ice, including single pitch, which can be top-roped. Crags are very close to the road. Found the venues to be busier compared to Cogne. Good mix of 'cragging' venues and long routes. Accomodation fairly cheap at the above mentioned place. Would look at getting a hire car though if you prefer climbing to walking on tarmac. Also, the Norwegian kroner exchange rate has taken a big drop lately so it won't be as expensive as you might think. There's loads of other venues around Norway with easier routes. There's some ideas here: www.isklatring.no. Oppdal has roadside ice for example, is very reliable, and has a stunning recent guidebook. Was looking at the Gudbrandsdalen pdf last night and also lots of easier routes if you fancied getting off the beaten track. Also look at DNT. They have unmanned huts that are cheap to stay in. In more populated areas they tend to be away from roads on walking routes though. I'm doing a long weekend to the far North next month and planning to stay in a hut on the road for 100kr pp per night.

La Grave might also be another good option. There's at least one gite in town and ice that's walkable distance. I didn't do many routes there but what I did were also equipped at the belays. Not quite as reliable as Cogne.
 Casa Alfredino 07 Jan 2015
In reply to SGH Matt:

Sottoguda in the Dolomites. I'll declare I'm biased but that doesn't make it any less good. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9936
 butteredfrog 07 Jan 2015
In reply to SGH Matt:

Gressoney has plenty to go at.
OP SGH Matt 07 Jan 2015
In reply to SGH Matt:

Thanks to all who replied, a wealth of info. Much appreciated for the insights. I'll get planning! Cheers. Matt.
 berna 08 Jan 2015
In reply to SGH Matt:

Lyngen in northern Norway. Norwegian flies to Tromso and then you can take a bus further north. I stayed at Magic Mountain Lodge and cannot recommend it highly enough
In reply to SGH Matt:
Cogne is packed. Very little ice this season. You need to either be first in line or go for long walks. If you base yourself in the central valley it'll be a lot cheaper and you could try the other valleys too. The only downside is the driving, but everything will be within one hour drive.

Another option is Briançon. I was there one week ago. There is very little ice there too, but there is something. Before planning an ice climbing trip this year I would check the temperatures. It may be not worth it tbh

Or at least bring some rock shoes too
Post edited at 09:36

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