Petzl Lynx Crampons vs ...?

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 partz 07 Dec 2014
Hi all,

I currently have a pair of G12 which I've used lots in Scotland with lots of fun. Im heading to Rjukan in Feburary and I've been advised that a pair of 'vertical front point' crampons (where the front points are 'tall' rather than 'wide' like in the G12's) would be better for water/ice routes as they dig in better and give less flex. I agree with this as does Euler Beam theory
Anyway
Im trying to decide the crampons to buy. Im not too disgruntled about doing this, because it means a friend can borrow the 'spare' set that I don't use for other Winter excursions. Obviously they need to be cheap too because ...well because no one likes to spend money.

Petzl Lynx
These have caught my eye for several reasons. Firstly the front point configuration means I can change between mono and dual point. I've never climbed in mono point mode before, but would be interested to see what its like. The rest of the crampon seems to be fine, and they'll fit my Nepal Extremes OK. Even more so, using some crafty retail skills I can pick them up for under £160...
My question is: are there any bad things about them or things I should consider? Has anyone had any gripes with them? Is there a better alternative?

I've looked at the Stinger and the G20 but both had little things that put me off a bit (the Stinger being mono-point only?).


Thanks
 TobyA 07 Dec 2014
In reply to partz:

This question keeps coming up, so I'll say my normal piece: after over a decade of water ice climbing most winter weekends, I much less convinced now that vertical points make such a big difference to horizontal ones. If you are going to get something different from G12s, I'd go for monos, but if you're not a regular and experienced ice climber I'm not certain you'll notice a huge difference. I normally ice climb in Terminators with monos, but for various reasons I've done quite a lot in G12s in recent years (see my profile pic) and I'm not convinced there is such a big difference on many routes.
In reply to partz: A few points.
First, I wouldn't disagree with Toby, G12s will get most people up most of the routes they will want to get on.
Second, the Lynx beat Grivel G14s hands down (assuming they fit your boots). They are superb if you want all the advantages of a modular design and are the only crampons with the two binding options
Third, FWIW my personal choices are currently a pair of Air Techs (almost identical the the G12s) and G20s.

1
 HeMa 07 Dec 2014
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
> the Lynx ... are the only crampons with the two binding options

Nope, the're not.
 Mr E 07 Dec 2014
In reply to partz:
I also started off with G12's but before I went to Rjukan in late January 2014 decided I wanted vertical front points also, due to the bit of flex and I personally felt they bounced off ice a little sometimes probably due to my technique more then anything, anyway I went for the lynx for a couple of reasons, but mainly due to the fact you can have mono or duel points and at 2 lengths, I changed the set up daily in Rjukan to find out what I liked and to what I thought suited the conditions or climbing, any way I think there a great buy and you won't be sorry if you get a pair, mine fit ok on my Nepal extreme gtx I just make sure there nice and tight. Hope that helps.
Post edited at 19:38
In reply to HeMa:
You are quite right, there is the Edelrid Shark for example.

At the time I was intending to just refer to the modular crampons available but unfortunately didn't include any qualifier to that effect.
Post edited at 20:15
 ianstevens 07 Dec 2014
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

> Second, the Lynx beat Grivel G14s hands down (assuming they fit your boots).

As an owner of G14's (but have never used Lynx's) - dare I ask why?

In reply to ianstevens:
> As an owner of G14's (but have never used Lynx's) - dare I ask why?

The main one is they are 200g per pair lighter (weights from Needle sports website http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Winter-Climbing-Equipment/Crampons/St... ) with no obvious disadvantages. They also fit many modern boots better and have the two choices of binding.

As with all things, products improve incrementally. Charlet Moser M10s were great crampons when they first appeared (I climbed my first grade V in a pair), but then the G14s came on the market with arguably a much better design and then more recently Petzl has moved things forward again considerably with the Lynx. No doubt Grivel will update the G14s in due course with something that is even better still.
 nufkin 07 Dec 2014
In reply to partz:

> I've looked at the Stinger and the G20 but both had little things that put me off a bit (the Stinger being mono-point only?).

I've had G20s for several years now, and have yet to find myself thinking 'I really wish I had two points right now'. No doubt they're not ideal for some things, but they cope, and are really good for what they're meant to be good for; ie ice, and delicate mixed routes. For mountaineering days you've got your G12s, for climbing days why not treat yourselvef to monopoints?
 HeMa 08 Dec 2014
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

> At the time I was intending to just refer to the modular crampons available but unfortunately didn't include any qualifier to that effect.

Camp Bladerunner.

And the same parts that work with Shark can also be fitted on Beast (or Beast Lite).
 Pay Attention 08 Dec 2014
In reply to partz:

I got Petxl Lynx Crampons two years ago, just before a trip to Rjukan. One of the things I took into consideration was the capability to switch from dual to mono points. At that time I had never mono pointed.

Since then I haven't switched back to duals.

So I suppose I could have chosen to go for pure mono points (such as the Stinger) instead of going for a compromise with dual/mono capability. I've found the Lynx excellent on all the routes I've done since getting them.
 Gazlynn 08 Dec 2014
In reply to partz:

Fit would be the first thing I would look at and if you're looking for a wire bail crampon Petzl fitted my phantom guides the best.
As you are in a fortunate position of already own a pair of G12s that you can use for Alpine stuff and easy snow plods, I would personally go for something a little more specialist instead of the one crampon for all situations. Although I own a pair of Lynx crampons and love them, I have only ever have them in a couple of set ups.

I would look at the Darts, Stingers and G20s and if you don't want to go the mono point the Dartwins or the G22s.

Please take this advice with a pinch of salt as I don't climb hard and have no real monopoint experience.

cheers

Gaz



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