Toubkal & High Atlas Winter Conditions

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Removed User 25 Nov 2014

Yesterday I headed up to the Toubkal refuges (3,200m) to check out the snow after the big dumps we had over the weekend. There is a good amount of snow and more predicted for later this week!

For more on the recent weather, snowpack, and climbing conditions go to my blog at: http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-3-nov-201...

Watch this forum for further Toubkal and High Atlas Winter Conditions update!
Post edited at 12:15
 Dave 25 Nov 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:
Thanks. Looks like a promising start to the winter. When would your recommend a trip to ski there ? Jan/ Feb ?

 Rob Johnson 26 Nov 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Thanks for the info James. I am flying in Saturday for a week so may well bump into you again. Lets hope it all settles down a bit!
Removed User 28 Nov 2014
In reply to Dave:

Hi Dave, the way the winter is shaping up I would say Jan/Feb should be good for skiing! Traditionally the skiing is good around that time but the last couple of winters have been very thin. Keep an eye on the Toubkal Winter Conditions Report on the blog at: http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/ & twitter @toubkalwinter as I will be trying to post regular updates!
Removed User 28 Nov 2014
In reply to Rob Johnson:

Hi Rob it is pretty full on at the moment with the amount of rain. The road from Asni to Imlil is not in the best of shape due to all the rain, so it may take you a bit longer getting up there! Feel free to drop by for a cup of tea, just email at morocco@the-mountain-people.com.
Removed User 29 Nov 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

It is currently snowing in Imlil (1,740m) and we have seen a lot more new snow higher up over the last couple of days!

Here is a photo of M'zzik (one of the villages that makes up Imlil)

https://twitter.com/toubkalwinter

Will post another Toubkal Winter Conditions report sometime next week at http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/
Removed User 29 Nov 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

It is currently snowing in Imlil (1,740m) and we have seen a lot more new snow higher up over the last couple of days!

Here is a photo of M'zzik (one of the villages that makes up Imlil)

https://twitter.com/toubkalwinter

Will post another Toubkal Winter Conditions report sometime next week at http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/
Removed User 02 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Finally the return of blue skies for the Toubkal and the High Atlas! See https://twitter.com/toubkalwinter for a fresh photo!

I am out doing some personal climbing tomorrow or the next day and will post a Toubkal Winter Conditions report at the end of the week at: www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/
 Pete Houghton 02 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Thanks for the updates dude, after seeing the mountains there in fairly-dry early November last year, I decided a winter trip was definitely on in the future. Hopefully there next year.

Keep the pictures coming!
Removed User 05 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Yesterday, I posted another Toubkal Winter Conditions report at: http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-4-dec-201...

Check out the blog for photos of the ice and mixed lines forming on Afella, Ras and some of the other 4,000m peaks in the Toubkal Massif!
 GaborS 05 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Hi James,

Will you be around the area in the beginning of January? I am planning a trip there on the 1st and I would like to make the most of it.

let me know if you are interested in some alpine-style mountaineering.

Thanks,
Gabor
Removed User 06 Dec 2014
In reply to Ourea:

Hi Gabor,

Really sorry but not free during that time as I should be out guiding! Let us know if you need any logistics help... email at morocco@the-mountain-people.com

Also, ask for me at the refuges and I can then give you some beta on some of the classic mountaineering routes if I am there!

All the best to you Gabor!

 GaborS 08 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Hi James,

Thanks for your response. I am planning to stay up in the mountains for 4-5 days, in which time I would like to do as much as I can. Where could I find when I'm there? Are you based in Imlil?

Gabor
Removed User 11 Dec 2014
In reply to Ourea:

Hi Gabor,

I won't be available till the 4th of Jan. Two great resources you should get for your trip for mountaineering and climbing routes:

1) Mountinaeering in the Moroccan High Atlas by Des Clark
2) Toubkal Guia de Ascensiones y Escaladas by David Taura Riera

Both of these will give you loads of good info on routes, etc! I should be around and maybe guiding during the time of your trip, so hopefully we cross paths. Hope you have a great trip!
Removed User 11 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Check out photo of the north cwm of the North Col route: https://twitter.com/toubkalwinter/status/542994401493262336

Also, will post another full Toubkal Winter Conditions report soon at: www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/

RockShock 11 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Hey James,

Since you are based there, you may confirm perhaps: we're looking to jump across the Strait from Spain to ascent Toubkal on skis. I am guessing the best period would be March-April? Or would you suggest other dates? Of course I am looking for general info, no for a detailed weather forecast..

Cheers
RS
 GaborS 11 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Hi James,

Thanks for the info, really helpful. I hope I will bump into you on the Mountain. It is looking to be a great trip, I feel.

Gabor
Removed User 13 Dec 2014
In reply to RockShock:

Hello RS,

For regular photos & conditions updates on the snow conditions watch:

https://twitter.com/toubkalwinter

http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/

There is plenty of snow at the moment and more on the way this weekend! There is generally snow into April!


 richard s 13 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Hi James,

Thanks for the conditions update. We are heading out to Toubkal just after Christmas so hope the good conditions continue.
Please can you advise what the main route up Toubkal is like (South Col I think). What angle is the snow slope at steepest? I assume it's well within a grade 1 as we've not been asked to bring harness etc, so will just have crampons and ice axe. (We're travelling with KE travel).

Thanks,

Richard
Removed User 14 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Light snow showers overnight and today down to Imlil! Here is a photo taken today 14-12-14

https://twitter.com/toubkalwinter/status/544163292059811841/photo/1

Another Toubkal Winter Conditions Report coming soon!
Removed User 14 Dec 2014
In reply to richard s:

Hello Richard,

The conditions should be good unless a big snow storm comes through during your trip! There are two steeper slopes on the South Col route. One is as you enter the south cwm from the refuge and one before the South col itself. They are below grade 1 in my opinion, so you will only need an axe and crampons. There is also some exposed section on the ridge to gain the summit, so be sure to be comfortable with axe and crampon use. If you are at all uncomfortable with using an axe and crampons make sure your guide gives you some tuition. There are plenty of good slopes to practice on around the refuge the day before your climb!

All the best to you!

James

 richard s 14 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Thanks for the info James.

Most of our party have used crampons and ice axe before, but a couple have not. We are staying at Refuge for 3 nights, so should get chance for practice. Hoping to climb Ouanoukrim as well if time and conditions allow. Might bump into you if you guiding then.

Cheers,

Richard
Removed User 18 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Toubkal and the High Atlas are currently in great winter condition for mountaineering! The winter climbs still need some more time to get into proper nick. Check out my latest Toubkal Winter Conditions Report form more details and photos at:

http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-5-dec-201...
 GaborS 31 Dec 2014
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Hi James,

Sorry to bother you on New Year's eve. Do you know where the snow line is at the moment? I was wondering if it was possible to hire a mule up to the refuge and if you know any good muleteers in Imlil, who would be available.

Also, If you are around the are after the 4th, where could I found you? I could do with a few friendly advice from someone who speaks English (unfortunately I do not speak French at all).

Many thanks,
Gabor
Removed User 08 Jan 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Winter Conditions for Toubkal and High Atlas are looking good! Great firm snow and some of the ice and mixed lines are coming into nick! Check out my latest update for more info and photos!

http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-6-jan-201...

Removed User 08 Jan 2015
In reply to Ourea:

Sorry Gabor for the late reply! I was in the UK over Christmas and New Years. Hope things went well for you!
Removed User 12 Jan 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Fresh snow over the weekend! Photo here:
https://twitter.com/toubkalwinter/status/554310400905584641

Forecast promising more snow this week:
http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Toubkal/forecasts/4167

Removed User 15 Jan 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Just a quick Toubkal Winter Conditions update! A good amount of snow dropped yesterday night and early in the morning. With the fresh snow avoid big drifts and be on the look out on sun exposed slopes where the snowpack may become heavy and saturated and bonds between layers weakened!

I will give another proper winter conditions report next week at: http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/

For the last full update see: http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-6-jan-201...

Also keep an eye on Twitter: https://twitter.com/toubkalwinter & Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/themountainppl



 GaborS 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Hi James,

Yes, it was great. Initially I was planning to spend 4-5 days up in the mountains, but I was too worried for my pregnant wife - who stayed down in the village of Around - so I came down after just one day. I only went up to Toubkal in the end. It was still a trip worthwhile and a great experience. At least I now know what to expect when I will return in the future. Thanks for the advice, your blog was very useful.

Gabor
Removed User 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Just got back from a trip! Pretty full on 'Scottish like' conditions in the High Atlas. Lots of wind slab, high winds, and severe wind chill! Check out the blog for more information and photos:

http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-7-jan-201...

 cookieman 21 Jan 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:
is south west ridge on toubkal looking good for an ascent next sat week,one inexpierenced climber,any guides for one day
Post edited at 01:16
Removed User 15 Feb 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Just back from a 6 day trip in the Toubkal Massif! The snow in the High Atlas is generally in great condition. We found good hard snow on lots of the peaks and saw lots of ice routes in good condition. I will post a new Toubkal Winter Conditions Report soon, but in the mean time check out this photo of Toubkal from the Tadat col 3,800m!

https://twitter.com/toubkalwinter/status/566913223283474432

For regular winter conditions reports watch this blog: http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/
Removed User 16 Feb 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

As promised a new Toubkal Winter Conditions Report at: http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-8-feb-210...

Big Mountain Man 09 Mar 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Cheers for your updates James, any pictures or weather changes recently?
Removed User 20 Mar 2015
In reply to Big Mountain Man:

Hello,

I was at the refuge yesterday and have posted a Toubkal winter conditions update at (plenty of photos):

http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-9-march-2...
Removed User 28 Mar 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Temperatures rising in the High Atlas! Let's hope it gets cold again before all the ice is gone!

For the newest Toubkal Winter Conditions Report with photos check out:

http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-10-28-mar...
Removed User 03 Apr 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Just back from another trip up Toubkal and have posted photos and winter conditions update at:

http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-11-3-apri...
Removed User 23 Apr 2015
In reply to Removed UserJames Kniffen:

Some of the ice is still in! Check out the blog for photos and a full update the High Atlas and Toubkal!

http://www.the-mountain-people.com/blog/toubkal-winter-conditions-12-22-apr...

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