Mountaineering Boots Advice

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 cathalb55 23 Nov 2014
Hi,

I was wondering if anyone could offer me some advice on mountaineering boots? I'm interested in getting a pair for Scottish Winter and Alpine use - looking for fully rigid ones for mixed/ice climbing as well as more classic mountaineering routes. I am aware fit is definitely the most important thing but I'm deciding between classic leather Mont Blancs / Nepals style and newer Phantom Guide / Batura Style and wondering if anyone could offer advice on what might be a better option to invest in and for what reasons? Thanks
 Mark Haward 23 Nov 2014
In reply to cathalb55:

As you say, fit is vital. Can also look at weight and insulation. A lighter boot can feel more precise, especially when mixed or rock climbing and can be less tiring - assuming it is still supportive enough. However, it may lose out on the insulation front. If you are standing around a lot, get cold feet, intending staying high (4,000m plus ) for long periods of time or thinking about alpine winter then a more insulated boot may suit. It rather depends on the routes you currently want to do and intend doing over the next few years. No one pair will do it all, you will probably aim for compromise in one aspect or another.
I feel the boots with built in gaiters lack flexibility for me, often I don't need gaiters or only very lightweight ones. So having no built in gaiters lets me add gaiters when I need them. There is a boot hire service available in the UK and many alpine regions which gives you a chance to try different boots out.
Personally, I currently use Nepal Evo Extreme GTX. They are light, cope well with easier alpine / UK days and lots of walking / scrambling but are also great for ice / mixed and alpine summer. However, they are not so well insulated and their life span is less than some heavier and more robustly built boots.
 damowilk 23 Nov 2014
In reply to cathalb55:

The super gaiter style is very good for Scottish winter and alpine. I've had the original Scarpa Phantom Lite, a dalliance with the Batura, then back to the Phantom Guide, Scarpa fit me better.
These style of boot are both warmer and lighter than boots like the Nepal. The downside is durability, and they can get a bit sweaty and damp, particularly on multi day use. I still keep going back to them though.

Fit is key, but between the Scarpa, La Sportiva and Mammut/Raichle options, there's a good range of foot shapes covered. (Any other brands out there doing similar boots anyone?)
 hokkyokusei 24 Nov 2014
In reply to damowilk:


> ... (Any other brands out there doing similar boots anyone?)

Salewa, I think?
OP cathalb55 24 Nov 2014
In reply to cathalb55:

Thanks all for the comments, definitely getting a better idea now of what I'm looking for.

On a note, Asolo do also seem to do a sort of super gaiter style boot, it's pretty new though I think

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