Montane Flux

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matejn 23 Nov 2014
For the upcoming climbing trip in Norway, I´m in a market for a cold condition climbing jacket. I already have a Prism jacket but I find it a bit short in torso length and is constantly rising up from beneath the harness. Is Flux jacket any better in this regard and is it suitable at all for ice climbing? I'm also open to any other suggestion.
 The Lemming 23 Nov 2014
In reply to matejn:

I'll let you know when mine arrives in the post during the week.
 nathan79 23 Nov 2014
In reply to matejn:

Fairly long length I'd say, don't know how it compares to the Prism as I've never tried one on. Mine comes to below bum level at rear and below pocket level at the front and I have a long torso. Haven't even left the house in it yet so can't speak about suitablity for ice climbing.
 climber34neil 23 Nov 2014
In reply to matejn:

I have the flux, this will be it's 3rd winter season for me and I think it's great. I use it as a belay jacket and find it perfect for that although I know it's not quite as warm as some and have also climbed in it as well when really cold and have no complaints at all. It is longer than the prism as well I think. I tend to run fairly warm but if you feel the cold more then the ice guide jacket may be better but I have no complaints about the flux, I love it! Hope that helps
In reply to matejn:

I would think the flux would be too warm for ice climbing, as a belay jacket yes. I have a prism, great for hard mixed under a shell, would find it too warm/sweaty on steep ice in norway. Baselayer, thin fleecey, shell is the way to go!

Stuart
 top cat 24 Nov 2014
In reply to matejn:
I have x2 Flux in different sizes for different jobs, so |I guess I'm a happy user.
Flux has overly long arms though, which can be a pain for long over mitts use when belaying.
 The Lemming 25 Nov 2014
In reply to matejn:

My jacket has just arrived and I have to say, from poncing around in the house, that I am very pleased with it. The jacket covers my bum. Even while sat down or flailing my arms around, the jacket does not rise above my bum.

When I buy stuff like jackets, fleeces or tee-shirts I normally choose a large size, however the medium fits me perfect with a thick fleece under it. Its snug but not constricting. I was worried about comments regarding arm length and I'm happy to report that the arms are the perfect length, neither rising up my arms or below my wrists while throwing my arms around.

And a huge improvement over the Prism jacket are the extra pockets, including an internal pocket for small items such as a phone or wallet.

The attention to detail is especially welcome around the zips and draw strings. The zips have snazzy simple designs that work well with gloves and the hood drawstrings have a great way of being stowed so they don't smash you in the face by flapping about.

But most important of all, the jacket is considerably warmer than the Prism, which itself was a toasty garment to begin with. Got to say, I much prefer the flux but both garments are superb.

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