UKH

Off off to Switzerland for a sort of working holiday and thought I would take in a few Via Ferrata whilst out there.

I had in the back of my mind a recall a while back so checked my kit out, its not recalled but they do recommend retiring after their life even if stored correctly, which is 5 years, mine was bought in 2007 so well out.

Does that apply to all gear ??? surely heaps of folk have gear older than that, me included with a climbing rack !

What's your thoughts ? Replace or use ? Don't really want the "its your life" comments and all that, I will probably replace, just canvassing opinion really.

In reply to Dark-Cloud:

I haven't been climbing for long enough to have retired any gear, but the massive loss of strength of slings with abrasion makes those the most likely bits of my rack to replace first. Some gear manufacturers are using 8mm dyneema on gear now - in my mind, the thinner the dyneema, the less wear it can take, so the earliest it will have to be reslung. Not sure if there's been any tests on that, mind.

Apart from that, the BMC website has a good video on common wear found on different bits of a rack. I wouldn't retire metalwork on the basis of age. From memory: Nuts - look for breaks or corrosion in the wires, especially at the 180 degree turn above the nut which is the most stressed bit. Karabiners - I wouldn't retire on age, but watch for gates sticking or not closing properly, sharp edges (or corrosion). Cams - bloody everything.

I think my attitude is to give the rack a once-over every 6 months or so, retire textiles on age, and metal on wear.

In reply to Dark-Cloud:

this is the link: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/caring-for-equipment

In reply to climbwhenready:

Cheers, in the first few pages, an important note section:

• the manufacturers’ advice;

And that says replace after 5 years, not much the BMC say should contradict that really ?

In reply to Dark-Cloud:

I'd use it

In reply to Dark-Cloud: I still use gear that I've had for over fifteen years, and use several times a week - it's fine. The condition of the equipment is far more important than an arbitrary recommendation. That said, if you're talking about VF lanyards, you might want to bear in mind that the older rope-braking models were recalled a few years ago, and some of the older screamer types have been found to be a bit dodgy too.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/more-via-ferrata-sets-are-recalled

In reply to Dark-Cloud:

Retire gear when you do not feel confident in it, or it is knackered. Hard stuff, when it's worn/damaged. Soft stuff, damage/wear/fading etc. Have hard wear I bought in the 60's and still use. Just retired my rigid stem friends.
Good luck with the decision.