Rigid climbing shoes

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dirtyfly 20 Aug 2014
Hi all,

I'm looking for some very rigid climbing shoes (I'm developing a problem in my toe joint and should't flex it climbing) .
I recall seeing climbing shoes with metal bars inside or very rigid insoles. do you jnow any that fits these characteristics ?

thanks all

JC
 PPP 20 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

I think old shoes used to be quite stiff. Also, how big is your foot? The bigger the foot is, the more flexible shoe will be.
dirtyfly 20 Aug 2014
In reply to PPP:

9 uk, but I know there are shoes with rigid plastic or steel midsoles
 Wil Treasure 20 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

> I know there are shoes with rigid plastic or steel midsoles

No regular rock shoes that I know of have this. Do you mean mountaineering boots?

dirtyfly 20 Aug 2014
In reply to drysori:

yup regular climbing shoes.

jc
In reply to dirtyfly:

I recall that 5.10 T-rocks were famously stiff - think they had a stiff plastic midsole. Discontinued now though you might find a pair on ebay.
 Wil Treasure 20 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

Board lasted models might suit I guess, like the Red Chili Sausalito. They have stiffened soles.
 deacondeacon 20 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

I'm fairly sure my dads old eb's had orb through until a metal plate was showing through. I'm sure someone else can confirm.
 Doug 20 Aug 2014
In reply to deacondeacon:

Fairly sure EBs were not stiffened with a plate although there were stiffer than modern shoes. The stiffest I can remember were RDs which I think were designed for limestone - they may well have had a steel shank
 muppetfilter 20 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

Look out for a pair of Boreal Fires on Ebay, they were very stiff boots .
 pec 20 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

Your best bet is probably something like the Boreal Ballet or Ace.
http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm
Not many shops seem to stock them these days, they seem to assume all climbers now have banana shaped feet, but if you hunt around on the net you should find some stockists even if you have to get them from abroad.
 Bloodfire 20 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:
My son has a 'walking on his toes' issue and his physio (nhs) is having carbon fibre insoles made for him which are super stiff. Maybe something like this might be more appropriate combined with a decent fitting shoe. you can then keep the thing for ever and swap shoes. It might just work.
Post edited at 22:31
 CharlieMack 21 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

Ive got some five ten anasazi greens (not verde) that are pretty old that I think have carbon fibre inserts in them. I cant bend them at all. Size 8 so probably too snall for you.
dirtyfly 21 Aug 2014
Hi, boreal seems to have the zephyr wich they claim to be very stiff, anyone knows these ?

thanks
 IPPurewater 21 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

The Red Chilli Sausalitos I have are rather stiff. Great for edging routes.
 CurlyStevo 21 Aug 2014
In reply to IPPurewater:

Are they the older model? The previous two models were REALLY stiff, I really liked them for easyish all day trad routes as they could be fitted quite loosely and the soles were supportive enough to allow them to edge still.. However the latest model is only quite stiff.
 CurlyStevo 21 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:
As a side note avoid the Scarpa thunder they start off stiff but whatever material stiffens the sole softens up quite quickly and they end up VERY flexible.
Post edited at 13:52
In reply to dirtyfly:

Most modern rock shoes are poorly designed and not rigid enough - most models are cr_p. Boreal Ballets were some of the best. 5.10 Hueco are the best you can get now (£50 at Needlesports). If anyone knows a better stiff boot let me know.
DC
 Ian Jones 21 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

You might want the RD from the 70's. Brown, rigid and I hated them.
 ablackett 21 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

What about B3 climbing boots such as La Sportiva Nepal Extremes. They have no flex at all, and very grippy.

Not what you were thinking, but might be worth considering.
In reply to dirtyfly:

get a car body repair kit, bit of that alloy filler mesh that you cover holes with, and make your own grp insoles. not that difficult. honest.
 IPPurewater 21 Aug 2014
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Possibly. I bought them about 4 or 5 years ago.
 CurlyStevo 21 Aug 2014
In reply to IPPurewater:

Yeah thats the old model - I've still got a couple of pairs on the go!
 kylo-342 25 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:
I have a pair of Evolv Astroman bought from Rock and Run this year.

they are excellent ...stiff but still perform well

Strongly recommend them, although worth trying on in person as the sizing is important as they dont stretch

Ps, I also have pain in my big toe joint and these shoes do not aggravate it
Post edited at 18:56
 Rob Davies 31 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

Kamet Joshua Tree boots had plastic stiffening insoles, but it's 20 years or so since they were made. I still have a pair for slate etc., as they're much better for edging than modern shoes. Stiiffest current models (that I know of) are Boreal Ballet Gold.
 rgold 31 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

I suspect insoles are the way to go. Might be worth having a look at a commercial carbon product, http://www.superfeet.com/en-us/blog/article/carbon-the-lightweight-evolutio... , http://www.myfootshop.com/spring-plate-carbongraphite-fiber-insert , http://professionals.ottobockus.com/cps/rde/xchg/ob_us_en/hs.xsl/55604.html ,http://www.rtpfast.com/shopping.html , etc. etc. GIYF.

Years ago some of us used to make insoles out of ordinary aluminum cookie sheets. They'd break after a lot of flexing (or perhaps I should say after resisting a lot of flexing) but they were cheap too.
 gd303uk 31 Aug 2014
In reply to dirtyfly:

La Sportiva; TC pro, Boreal; Fires' and Ballet Gold , are good stiff shoes.
i still have a new ( never worn) pair of old Fires and an old pair in need of a resole.
great for slate.

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