Dri Hornli Ridge - Valais Alps East/Oberwallis

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 adam clarke 11 Aug 2014
Does anyone have a route description for the Dri Hornli ridge traverse (just behind the Almageller Hut, above Saas Almagell)?

Had a go at this starting a bit too late a couple of years ago and went slightly off route in a state of disorganisation.

Plan on getting back on it in a week or so - would really appreciate if anyone has any text describing the line of the route, etc?

Cheers,

Adam
 AdamCB 12 Aug 2014
In reply to adam clarke:

Had a look in my Plaisir West guidebook but it basically just has a diagram going 'over the top'.. I think the hut has topos for the routes which may provide more detail.
 JLS 12 Aug 2014
In reply to adam clarke:

I think it just a case of spotting the first of the pegs then following the trail of pegs, scratches and polish. From memory the route starts just (10m?) to the hut side of the ridge on a buttress face, agains the ridge crest by means of 2 or 3 pitchs which tend to the right up the buttress. Once the ridge narrows and flattens out it would be hard to get lost though you do need to make choices as to whether to climb over or turn some of the pinnicles. At the end of the difficulties on flat ground, finding the best path down could be confusing. Initially go a bit left (I seem to remember cairns) to climb down a short wall then back right into the jumbled rocks that now form the ridge line to look for a suitable escape right. A steep gully presents its self as a possiblity but it's better to go a bit further (50m?, probably less). It's all a bit loose here but a bit of care will see you quickly clear of the steep ground. It's been a while so my recollection could be flawed. Good luck.
Removed User 12 Aug 2014
In reply to adam clarke:

http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=593368

There is a reasonable description in Pennine Alps East, the 1975 forerunner of the much sought-after Valais East.

Other unsuccessful seekers after Valais East may well also find the book of some use (especially at a bargain fiver).

John (no connection with the vendor: just happened to notice it when the FS post came up).
Dr Avinash Aujayeb 12 Aug 2014
In reply to Removed UserJohn Willson:

This was last year for us

The first day will give you the topo

http://www.cesen.com/agk/report.php?id=25
OP adam clarke 12 Aug 2014
In reply to JLS:

Cheers all - much appreciated!
 Lord Font 15 Aug 2014
In reply to adam clarke:

Did this route last year after a failed attempt the previous year due to a late start and weather . From the start of the climb it traverses up and right over flakey terrain , then straight up a crack to a good ledge on left with a peg (about 3 pitches )From here go up an easy angled slab until it steepens to a vertical wall , there is a bolt , traverse left 4/5 metres to another bolt then up and round onto the ridge . This gets the crux move about severe . From here its a case of following the ridge with easy route finding . The topos from the hut give 3-4 abseil points on the ridge . We did it moving together so its a little difficult predicting pitch/lenth etc . A fantastic day out followed by a traverse of the Weissmies the next day makes an excellent couple of days.
Have fun
 gingerbex 16 Aug 2014
In reply to adam clarke:

did this last week. Great day out, but took longer than the guidebook 4-5 hours. The guardian at the allmagellar hut has a colour printed topo which includes the sports routes and ab points, plus the line for the traverse, but no route description. The most difficult part was finding a reasonable way down, lots of chossy slopes which are unappealing from on top, look much better from below! Enjoy.
 gavinj 16 Aug 2014
In reply to Lord Font:

That sounds great - what huts do you use and do you need a guidebook?
 The Ivanator 16 Aug 2014
In reply to adam clarke:

Did this a few years ago and accessed the ridge by doing a full height bolted climb towards the left (valley) end of the face (Take it Easy at F5). Simple route finding from that point - just turn right and follow the crest.
We found a pretty clear and amenable path down, the ridge broadens into walking, drops in height via some scrambly stuff then the path (in good conditions) appears on the right. Bit of boulder hopping to get back to the hut.
The guardian at the Almageller (if it is still the same guy) speaks excellent English and was involved in bolting the face, he can certainly give you any pointers you need and the colour topos he sold whilst we were there were good (3chf).
Some of the long bolted routes are well worth a look, of those we did Heimweh and Hittuleicht were the highlights.
 Lord Font 17 Aug 2014
In reply to gavinj:

We had an early start and walked up to the almageller hut from Saas almagel . Did the ridge then stayed at the hut for the night . The next morning we climbed the weissmies via south east ridge then descent the north west flank to hohsaas station . If you fancy staying up for another night or 2 , there's the lagginhorn , the fletchhorn , also jeggihorn which has some good bolted routes and a great via ferrata. These can all be accessed from the hohsaas hut or the weissmies hut . I prefer the Weissmies hut , it has a lot more character . The hohsaas hut is fine but reminds me of a motorway service station . guide book we use is Martin Moran 4000m peaks of the Alps

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